What kind of radiator are you using on this set up?

 

I'm not sure, because I'm not the one who originally built the car, but I know the fans are made by Spal. I have the receipts for the car from the original owner, and it doesn't say the brand radiator, and I only know the fans because I have the manual for them. I do know all together, the fans and radiator was $1300. I don't know if that tells you what kind because I don't know what a regualar radiator goes for. All I know is it's aluminum and the fans are Spal. Sorry, hope this helps! I'll let you know if I find anything else out.

 

Sounds like a DeWitts Radiator set-up. They are top of the line the price would be about right. I know you would need a bigger, better radiator with that set up.

http://www.dewitts.com/collections/c...inum-radiators

http://www.dewitts.com/collections/c...tor-fan-combos

 

Thanks for the info! I found it amazing when I found the reciept for the parts for the radiator setup. I couldn't believe the previous owner spent $1300 on it!

 

Update:

Each week we make some progress. This past weekend was the same. I'll tell you this, wiring SUCKS! We cleaned up some more of the wiring, and its starting to look great! Here's some pics.

Here's the completed wiring from the side you have seen before:



Here is the other side which is mostly done, but still needs some more work:



We also installed the plugs, headers, and plug wires:



You can also see the rear of the engine has a lot less loose wiring and is already looking better:



And did I forget to mention, we are using stainless steel braided lines! Here's a sample of it:



We're taking this weekend off because of Columbus Day weekend, but it should be running in a few weeks!! Post comments and thoughts!! Thanks!!

 

I think its looking real good. I attend all kinds of car shows and 1 of the things that detract from the looks of a car is wiring and the lack of any attention to detail. Guys will spend big money on polished parts only to have the wiring looking like spaghetti.

 

Thanks, we are definitely taking a lot of time on that!

 

Update:

We worked again this weekend and I'm pretty happy with some of the detail work we are doing. A lot of the vacuum lines are still a mess, but we'll be cleaning that up next weekend. We haven't finished polishing the supercharger or scoop yet, so we can't really organize the vacuum lines until it is all back together. Its looking great though. The S.S. Braided lines are in for the heating system and they look pretty good. We also started painting the inlays on the supercharger and scoop black. It looks great. Check out the pics below!

Painted inlay on intake:



Painted inlay on supercharger:



Another view of the almost fully polished supercharger with painted inlay:



Stainless braided lines (Don't mind the vacuum line mess):



Another view of the lines going into the core:



Even the dipstick has a braided stainless line going into the block!:



Another view of the stainless lines and block:



View of the relocated heater valve:



Another view of stainless lines:



Let me know what you guys think in the comments! Leave your thoughts and oppinions!

Another thing, which I'm kind of puzzled by, maybe you guys can help out: We were setting the first piston back to top dead center and as we were turning the crank, at a certain point, we heard almost like a grinding sound. We didn't look into it much, but any thoughts? It sounded like it was coming from the starter. The flex plate is correct, and the started wasn't binded up or anything. Just a thought if you guys might have any.

Thanks!!

 

Also, I forgot, the car will be started either next week, or definitely the week after!!! I can't wait!

Anotherthing thats good, the extra parts are slowly going down. I can't wait to get that hood in the back of the picture back on, then I'll know she's done:

 

nice build, and nice car.

you asked a question about lifting a tire or tires.... you might be able to with a high enough stall converter; but you'd get it for sure with a trans-brake.

Given the size of your converter, I'd bet it's relatively stock 1600-1800. You may be a bit disappointed with how it takes off away from a light because that style of blower motor doesn't really start making steam until 2800 rpms.

And yes, they can fit under the hood; with a different intake manifold and fuel injection... but why ruin the reason you bought it - for that bada$$ blower sticking out of the hood daring the rice to try

Also, be sure you have the motor well-vented. I used to blow dipsticks out of the block on mine - it's just kind of the nature of the beast - at full song they move a lot of air, so blow-by is just part of the game.

And about the comment about improper built motor. The blower was built and marketed to people with cast-piston bottom ends - because at full song (6k) they only developed 3-5 psi boost. Even with a pulley swap the max is 9 psi and a boatload of heat.

btw - the next upgrade - a nitrous kit; the best way to cool the charge of a blower motor is nitrous oxide. As a bonus it provides more oxygen, but it's main function is as a chemical intercooler.

 

Thanks for the comment! Let me see if I can hit each part of it seperately.

I'm not sure what a trans-brake is; can you fill me in on that.

On the old engine, the take off from the line was surprisingly good, and wasn't too sluggish. So I'm expecting it to be better. (It is the original tranny from the old engine, we didn't replace it.)

As for the supercharger fitting under the hood, I know they're out there, but as for sticking a naturally aspirated one, I know it can't be done, not easily anyway. Plus I like the look of the scoop sticking out of the hood. I do get a lot of rice knocking at my door. Haha.

I'm putting a breather on either valve cover. It was a huge issue before because oil was spraying out between the gaskets, but I'm not worried about it now.

This blower (being told from by Weiand) is supposed to be making about 8 lbs of boost with my set-up. It was only making about 3-5 lbs before, so I'm ecpecting a huge improvement on power from that alone. A lot of the pressure was being lost past the cylinders and through the valve guides.

Now with the nitrous... I know you're going to think I'm crazy for saying this, but here it goes: All this work, all the "building the engine to race car quality", all the tidying up of everything, is not for racing. Haha. The car won't be raced at all and its all for show and to look nice. I know its crazy, but I don't know, maybe I am. I do want to bring it to the strip in Epping, NH, but just to see what it can do, not to race.

Thanks for the comments, I appreciate it!!

 

a transbrake is a valve body that allows the transmission to simultaneously be in reverse and 1st gear. It's purpose is to allow you to bring the motor's rpm up to its powerband so when you launch the power is all there (in a 1/4 mile race, the race is won or lost in the 1st 60 feet). Without the transbrake (in automatics only, obviously), you have to hold your foot on the brake and try to bring the rpm up - which normally results in the front wheels locked up tight as you scoot across the beams as the motor has overcome the brakes in the rear.

You can sort-of get around that with a higher stall speed converter. On the front of the transmission is the torque converter. Part of the torque converter is a pump that creates pressure which is used to hold the clutches in place as you accelerate in each gear. Thus, if you reduce the pressure to the plates, the transmission clutches will slip at until a higher rpm as there's not as much pressure hold them in place. High stall converters simply reduce the size of the pump and reduce the pressure at the "expense" of higher transmission temps (which kills the transmission sooner). These are referred to collectively as high "stall" speed converters (meaning the point at which the transmission clutches are fully locked). That said, they don't mean exactly the same thing to all manufacturers so one's 3000 stall is another's 2400 stall converter. Stall also is determined by hp.... by now I'm sure you're glassy eyed- so I'll stop with this... there's a lot of science and experience in getting the right converter for the car. You do right because you ask the pros - keep it up

With a blower, you'd like to get the stall at minimum 1800, preferably 2000 rpm so the carbs don't overfuel the motor and load it up in traffic.

To lift a tire with a high stall converter is easier than a low stall, but without a transbrake, but in any case it's devilishly hard to get a tire to lift because you just don't have enough hp at the wheels instantaneously.

Careful about drag racing - it's addictive.

You mentioned something about 8 psi. PSI is a measure of resistance to flow. Thus, one motor can be 8 psi because it's got bad heads, the other 6 psi because it's got good flowing heads.... what happens after the valve closes makes no difference.

You may want to look into a catch can or a crankcase evac system - the last one uses exhaust gases to create a vacuum in the motor.... both are a bit messy, but the 2nd is pretty effective at keeping seals in place.

 

No,you will not get the front off the ground,your weak point know is your rear end,if its more or less stock,if you run it hard it will break,these rear end werent made for drag racing.But you will love the supercharger,all my vehicles are supercharged,its the only way to go,exciteing every time you drive it. by the way,good job and looks fantastic

 

Gorgeous!!! What kind of upper and lower radiator hoses are you using? Also what kind of housing? I like it! Thanks!!

 

when you get done dragging your knuckles and decide that not all of the late 20th and the 21st century technology is good, you'll go to turbos and never look back



said completely as a joke because I'm seriously considering a Vortex supercharger for my beastie

 

Haha. Old technology belongs on old cars haha. Well, maybe not, but I just like the look of a supercharger over a turbo, plus I love the mechanical, belt driven aspect of it. Just my oppinion though.

 

Jegs sells 'em (Stainless Steel Radiator Hoses) - I bought a kit that contained upper and lower hoses, but I've forgotten who made them (Spectre maybe?). Most speed shops carry them too.

Beautiful build, BTW - many of the things you're doing to yours I also did to mine (no blower though)!

 

Thanks for the info!! And thanks alot! It means a lot when guys like you say that stuff. Shows that all the hard work and hard earned money spent is paying off. I know its not everyone's taste, but I just want it to be the best I can make it (and afford to make it.) A lot of the stuff we're doing, like painting the inlays on the blower, is just cheap little things that are making it look all the better. I've always got a lot of lookers, but mostly the people who don't know much about cars that just like the shiny stuff. I hope with this build, being one of the younger and unexperienced ones at the shows, that the real car guys can see the hard work and effort I've put in. Thanks again!

 

Update:

Well this week was great. Even though we DID NOT get the car running, we are about 98% of the way there and the engine's looking great! The polished supercharger is on along with the carb and scoop. The only thing left is to clean up the vacuum lines and hook em up and prime the engine and slide the distributer in. There were two things that held us up this weekend from starting the engine. Two rediculously stupid problems that ate up about 3 hours of time. When we hand turned the crank, we heard a grinding sound and we were pretty scared $hitless. We found that even with the starter disengaged, it was hitting the flywheel. We needed a spacer on the starter. We couldnt find one at Advance or Auto Zone so we made one cutting a sliver of 2" exhaust pipe about a 1/8" wide. At first I said I was going to find the right one and replace it afterwards, but the fix works so well and it doesn't look halfa$$ed or anything so I may keep it. Call me a hack for saving a few bucks but it works perfect, if not better than the actual spacer. The other dumb issue was with the gaskets I bought for the valve covers and the new valve covers. My valve cover bolts, which are stainless steel socket head cap 1" bolts weren't long enough. I went to home cheapo and got the same bolts but 1-1/2" and they were too long. I went to Advance and they had those t-bar stud valve cover bolts, which I personally don't like, but only enough for one valve cover. What is that going to do to help me? Anyway, so I also need to find bolts that I like for the valve covers. Next weekend for sure, the engine will start, unless some catastrophe happens (knock on wood ) Below are some pictures of the engine. I wish the distributer and vacuum lines were done for you guys to see, but next weekend for sure (along with an engine start video). Hope you enjoy!

Supercharger on car #1:



Supercharger on car #2:



Supercharger on car #3:



Engine pic #1 (Notice the painted inlays on the top of the scoop and in the "WEIAND" logo):



Engine pic #2 (Notice the S.S. braided cables going to linkage and how it matches the heater hoses and fuel lines, I LOVE IT!):



Engine pic #3:



Let me know what you guys think in the comments. Thanks!!

 

Looks awesome.

As long as it works, it's your car. I love watching the tv shows, or reading in magazines about how they "fixed" someone's "hack." IMO, they're just arrogant little cusses - with the free parts they get, they then make such statements.... yet, funniest part of all, I know many of the magazine writers and save one, they are the worst hacks of all.... maybe it's why they're so good at finding hacked cars (in their own backyard).

Starters... I had lots of trouble with this current C3, when I swapped to the manual, I found out why - the flywheel is out of round.... I also had tons of trouble finding the right length bolts - they were either way too short, or 1/8" too long (bottom out).... I used washers - give the pundits something to whine about....