DD Clutch Question
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 34
From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
DD Clutch Question
This question involves my DD. I washed it yesterday and used the water hose nozzle and squirted water through the radiator and AC Condenser. This morning I got in the car to run to the store, the car started as easy as always but would not go in gear for me. I turned the car off and worked the car through the gears with the car off. It worked perfect. So I tried to start it with it in gear, clutch pushed in, the car lurched forward. So I started checking all the hydraulic components to see if everything was working correctly. All is good here too. For kicks I tried to start the car in 3rd gear, the car lurched forward when I hit the key, and then the clutch started working right.
I am thinking water must have gotten in through the clutch fork boot and caused this. The car does have a ton of miles on it, 194000 but runs good and drives good. Any other ideas what would cause this?
I am thinking water must have gotten in through the clutch fork boot and caused this. The car does have a ton of miles on it, 194000 but runs good and drives good. Any other ideas what would cause this?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
Assuming your car still has the stock clutch linkage it is mechanical...and spraying water through the radiator would certainly not affect clutch operation, even if you got some water inside the bellhousing.
I once had a weld break on my clutch cross shaft; that could be the problem. If you've got the pedal pushed in and the car jumps when you crank it the clutch is not disengaging, so something somewhere between the pedal and the pressure plate is worn or broken, pedal pushrod, cross shaft, cross shaft-to-frame bracket, clutch fork pushrod, clutch fork itself, or the release bearing.
I once had a weld break on my clutch cross shaft; that could be the problem. If you've got the pedal pushed in and the car jumps when you crank it the clutch is not disengaging, so something somewhere between the pedal and the pressure plate is worn or broken, pedal pushrod, cross shaft, cross shaft-to-frame bracket, clutch fork pushrod, clutch fork itself, or the release bearing.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 3
From: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
Assuming your car still has the stock clutch linkage it is mechanical...and spraying water through the radiator would certainly not affect clutch operation, even if you got some water inside the bellhousing.
I once had a weld break on my clutch cross shaft; that could be the problem. If you've got the pedal pushed in and the car jumps when you crank it the clutch is not disengaging, so something somewhere between the pedal and the pressure plate is worn or broken, pedal pushrod, cross shaft, cross shaft-to-frame bracket, clutch fork pushrod, clutch fork itself, or the release bearing.
I once had a weld break on my clutch cross shaft; that could be the problem. If you've got the pedal pushed in and the car jumps when you crank it the clutch is not disengaging, so something somewhere between the pedal and the pressure plate is worn or broken, pedal pushrod, cross shaft, cross shaft-to-frame bracket, clutch fork pushrod, clutch fork itself, or the release bearing.
So I started checking all the hydraulic components...
Also, I don't think he is asking for help with that '70 ragtop as I believe DD means daily driver.
Last edited by 69 Chevy; Aug 20, 2012 at 10:07 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
OK then, let's try this:
Spraying water on the clutch/ bellhousing STILL should/would not affect clutch operation. If anything it might make an alreay weak clutch tend to slip, making gear engagement while running possible rather than impossible...
As it stands, if we are to assume that said DD is a typical front-wheel drive compliance-mobile then OP should (again) check all the components of the system, including the pedal assembly, master cylinder/reservoir, hose(s), slave cylinder, clutch fork, release bearing, pressure plate, etc. For proper operation....
Same as above, obviously for some reason the clutch is not properly/ adequately disengaging...
Spraying water on the clutch/ bellhousing STILL should/would not affect clutch operation. If anything it might make an alreay weak clutch tend to slip, making gear engagement while running possible rather than impossible...
As it stands, if we are to assume that said DD is a typical front-wheel drive compliance-mobile then OP should (again) check all the components of the system, including the pedal assembly, master cylinder/reservoir, hose(s), slave cylinder, clutch fork, release bearing, pressure plate, etc. For proper operation....
Same as above, obviously for some reason the clutch is not properly/ adequately disengaging...
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
Likes: 247
From: San Jose CA
I'm wondering if you ran into a case of the clutch being stuck to the flywheel and starting it in 3rd finally wrenched it loose.
You could have a master cylinder that's slightly bypassing as well, or a slave cylinder for that matter. Does the pedal feel normal or perhaps a little weak?
Usually a weak master will be visible at the interior firewall - you'll see fluid on the backside.
You could have a master cylinder that's slightly bypassing as well, or a slave cylinder for that matter. Does the pedal feel normal or perhaps a little weak?
Usually a weak master will be visible at the interior firewall - you'll see fluid on the backside.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 34
From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I'm wondering if you ran into a case of the clutch being stuck to the flywheel and starting it in 3rd finally wrenched it loose.
You could have a master cylinder that's slightly bypassing as well, or a slave cylinder for that matter. Does the pedal feel normal or perhaps a little weak?
Usually a weak master will be visible at the interior firewall - you'll see fluid on the backside.
You could have a master cylinder that's slightly bypassing as well, or a slave cylinder for that matter. Does the pedal feel normal or perhaps a little weak?
Usually a weak master will be visible at the interior firewall - you'll see fluid on the backside.
Any of you guys ever hear of this happening?
