HELP! Engine code
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
HELP! Engine code
I have at this point narrowed my Corvette search and have a question.... Can anyone help me explain to the guy (through text) how to find the engine code on his Vette? He thinks it is numbers matching but not sure but glad to look for me since I am 7 hours away...THANKS!
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 3,079
Likes: 314
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
The engine stamp pad is located in front of the passenger side valve cover, on a ledge of the block where the cylinder head mates.
There are two components:
1. The engine stamp that includes a letter for the factory, a date code and an engine suffix code.
2. The VIN derivative stamp that includes a portion of the VIN that should be embossed on a metal plate and riveted to the A pillar post, driver side.
Numbers matching is a meaningless term. The above should at least help you begin determining whether or not the car has the original engine. More scrutiny will be required to arrive at such a conclusion.
There are two components:
1. The engine stamp that includes a letter for the factory, a date code and an engine suffix code.
2. The VIN derivative stamp that includes a portion of the VIN that should be embossed on a metal plate and riveted to the A pillar post, driver side.
Numbers matching is a meaningless term. The above should at least help you begin determining whether or not the car has the original engine. More scrutiny will be required to arrive at such a conclusion.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
The engine stamp pad is located in front of the passenger side valve cover, on a ledge of the block where the cylinder head mates.
There are two components:
1. The engine stamp that includes a letter for the factory, a date code and an engine suffix code.
2. The VIN derivative stamp that includes a portion of the VIN that should be embossed on a metal plate and riveted to the A pillar post, driver side.
Numbers matching is a meaningless term. The above should at least help you begin determining whether or not the car has the original engine. More scrutiny will be required to arrive at such a conclusion.
There are two components:
1. The engine stamp that includes a letter for the factory, a date code and an engine suffix code.
2. The VIN derivative stamp that includes a portion of the VIN that should be embossed on a metal plate and riveted to the A pillar post, driver side.
Numbers matching is a meaningless term. The above should at least help you begin determining whether or not the car has the original engine. More scrutiny will be required to arrive at such a conclusion.
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 41
From: Raleigh NC
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
If you want to make a smart buy, I suggest having someone knowledgeable with your specific year look at the car. I'm sure there are many here on the forum that would extend a hand. Post where the car is located and maybe someone will chime in.
EDIT - I see you may have already tried this route. You'll find that "numbers matching" is a highly debated term on the forums. What you are doing is smart - verify that the engine is original to the car by matching the pad stamp to the titled VIN and the VIN on the drivers side pillar.
If you are interested in factory-correct, I would recommend you look into NCRS. They have plenty of info to help educate you on purchasing a car that is built towards originality vs. one that is modified.
EDIT - I see you may have already tried this route. You'll find that "numbers matching" is a highly debated term on the forums. What you are doing is smart - verify that the engine is original to the car by matching the pad stamp to the titled VIN and the VIN on the drivers side pillar.
If you are interested in factory-correct, I would recommend you look into NCRS. They have plenty of info to help educate you on purchasing a car that is built towards originality vs. one that is modified.
Last edited by LeMans Pete; Sep 4, 2012 at 10:43 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 41
From: Raleigh NC
St. Jude Donor '13-'14
Feel free to post pictures of the car on the forum and the $$$. You will receive more criticism than complements, but the information will still be useful.
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Administrator
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 53,972
Likes: 6,197
From: About 1100 miles from where I call home.
Here's some pictures to help a bit: 1. a typical engine pad, front side of passenger head. Contains VIN derivative and assembly code. This is painted over in engine orange. Most are cleaned off and are bare. 2. A block casting date code. 3. A block part number. 4. A transmission case with VIN.
The first picture is a number that "matches." The VIN derivative matches the title/ body VIN. However, it might mean the engine is original, or it might mean the block is restamped. The second number on the pad includes codes that tell you where the block was produced, the date and the engine option.
The second and third pictures are numbers that can be "correct" but do not "match" anything. The casting date needs to be appropriate to the build date of the car (and the configuration of the numbers) and the serial is a correct part number block for that model car... but could be from any car.
Finally, the trans case does have a VIN that will match the car VIN.
Hope this helps.
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 53,972
Likes: 6,197
From: About 1100 miles from where I call home.
That engine compartment is awful, missing everything. Id be surprised if the numbers matched. Wrong wheels. Awful home made door panels. Rough looking car. Why do you want this particular car? The price?
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
Virtually everything that can be seen on the engine - valve covers, carb, air cleaner, complete ignition system etc. etc. is aftermarket stuff and obviously the exhaust system. None of this increases or maintains the value of the car.
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 53,972
Likes: 6,197
From: About 1100 miles from where I call home.
The mods are the carb, intake, yellow wires, distributor, valve covers and air cleaner. All very cheap replacements. Lots of factory stuff gone and the rest is very crusty.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,650
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa Oklahoma
Sorry, I missed this earlier! I like the year, color and the price... Talk to me, educate me, show me where I am going wrong....I have a limited budget to buy one...
