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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 04:36 PM
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Default Stripping paint

What would be the best way to remove the old paint and get ready for a new paint job. Some of the paint comes off as the paint job is extremely poor. I'll put up a wee pic or video
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 05:26 PM
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Media blast, chemical aircraft stripper, and/or razor blade. Good luck.
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 05:32 PM
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This is gonna be messy
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by young bill
this is gonna be messy
very !
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 08:21 PM
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Go to the seach section for "paint removal", there are a few interesting and informative posts.
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 09:24 PM
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Did a search for "paint removal" and pretty much came up with just this thread that had anything to do with paint removal.
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by AirborneSilva
Did a search for "paint removal" and pretty much came up with just this thread that had anything to do with paint removal.
Try a search for "razor blade". Or go to the paint/body forum.

shmoky
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 09:35 PM
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Actually the razor blade method is not messy, and no cleanup,
great for doing a couple hours work every now and then.
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by shmoky
Try a search for "razor blade". Or go to the paint/body forum.

shmoky
Cool thanks.... I'm trying to picture removing paint with a razor blade, man that seems like a lot of work
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 09:43 PM
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What year is your car? I tried the chemical stripper (the one that cleans up with water) on my 82 with mixed results. I also tried soda blasting but that was a major disaster. On my 82 GM used two different kinds of fiberglass. This may be true of all the C3's built at Bowling Green but I don't know for sure. The front fenders and hood are more of a plastic than fiberglass and would only chemically strip to the primer. The back end and doors worked better but be prepared to refill the seams. If the body is in good condition I would recommend wet sanding only. It is alot of labor but your chances of screwing up the glass and gelcoat are minimized. Good Luck!
-Chris
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 09:52 PM
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Unless you pay someone to do it I think each method has drawbacks. I did mine with a razor blade and sand paper.It was a tremendous amount of work. If you use a chemical stripper you could contaminate the fiberglass if it is not properly neutralized. Soda blasting seems to be the current popular way to go but it's not your work, that was important to me. Not pirating your thread but offering advise based on personal experience. I spent 8 months stripping, priming and blocking my car. I checked on it today and the painter was blocking it again and planned to spray another coat of primer and block it again. I found a high quality body shop that is very picky and insist on perfection. If I had to do it again I would only strip it and carry to the painter.
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 10:13 PM
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I will be stripping a 4th vette with Captain Lees auto spray stripp. Good stuff and it neutralizes with water. Never had any problems from it. On my 77 I am taking the top layer off with razor blades, a lot quicker and a lot cleaner. Just sweep up the old paint when done. Once you get the feel for it, its pretty ez.
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 10:27 PM
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I just went through all that on my '73. It had a paint job over the original paint. I used a heat gun and a razor blade (in a scrapper handle) and it worked great. Just don't let the heat gun get it too hot.
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Old Sep 24, 2012 | 11:36 PM
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In the middle of doing our '69 now. Razor is taking the paint off very easily once you get the feel of it, and there are youtube videos showing the process. Tried a fiberglass friendly stripper from West Marine that barely touched the primer. Switched over to CitriStrip since it is convenient at Home Depot rather than ordering Capt Lee's. It has been doing great, though the aerosol can died with still half the can left. Switched over the 1/2 gal jug and just applying with paint brush, scraping off most of the resulting goo and scotch padding it down to fiberglass while still wet. At the end of each 2-3 hour session, liberally wipe over the newly stripped area, and just for good measure all the previously done areas, with mineral spirits.
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 05:16 PM
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Thanks guys, got lots to think about. I'll attack what I can with a blade and see how it goes. Try and put up some pictures of the process tomorrow
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Young Bill
Thanks guys, got lots to think about. I'll attack what I can with a blade and see how it goes. Try and put up some pictures of the process tomorrow
Looking forward to some pics and hearing your thoughts on using a blade
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 08:24 PM
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For the most part a razor blade works well. I made a nice handle so I could use box cutter type blades. Then I customized a few blades so the ends were rounded. As it got dull, I would use my lansky sharpener to keep the edge sharp. I used an inexpensive heat gun to soften the paint. There were 2 layers on my car and it removed the paint well. But, you will still need to use creative methods to get into the grill areas or door jambs. 80 grit sandpaper with a block will get all primer off as well. Lots of work no matter how easy it may seem.
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Old Sep 25, 2012 | 08:42 PM
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We did our front clip with a VERY sharp, thin bladed putty knife. It was rather easy, here it is in progress.....
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 01:12 PM
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razor blades and paint stripper is what my shop did.....
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 02:36 PM
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I had a quick go with a blade today just to see how it would work out. Need to make up a razor and try that. This was a sharpened garden blade, should have taken a photo of it.



I'll have a better go when I get time, stripping the interior completely next
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