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Hi All-
I am new to this forum...I have a '74 Stingray that I recently found my rear bumper cracked (seems to be a pretty common problem). I bought a true flex bumper and the guy that is putting it on and painting it for me is having a problem fitting it just right...any tips to get that on just right?
sometimes it takes a lot work to make a fiberglass bumper fit right... maybe it needs to be sanded and / or more fiberglass added here and there.
if you want a bumper that fits perfectly, get a urethane bumper (same as factory), they are expensive for a reason.
if you want a bumper that fits perfectly, get a urethane bumper (same as factory), they are expensive for a reason.
...currently there is no urethane "correct" rear bumper for a '74 Corvette. About 8yrs ago I installed that true two piece rear bumper from Eckler's on my '74 coupe. Their's are called "Flexi-Fit" although not as bendable, pliable or moldable as urethane, they are not as rigid as a fiberglass or TrueFlex bumper. Usually the rears are the easiest ones to work with as the curvature of the nose is what sometimes can be impossible to get a front fiberglass bumper to fit.
Any updates on this? I just tried to fit a fiberglass (supposedly flexible per midamerica corvette) but I have a good 1" gap between the top of the bumper and the rear of the car.
It seems like the bumper itself is too big for the new part. I took off the bumper section near the license plate but there still isn't enough room.
I'm contimplating taking the whole bumper off.....not sure if it would pass inspection at that point.
I had to kind of stretch my bumper cover over the "real" bumper. I also bought mine from Eckler's because it was a true split bumper cover and it was somewhat flexible. So I'm not sure if your's is as flexible. I also talked to the second owner who had the car in the 70's and she said when the first owner had it somebody plowed into the back of it so I was a little concerned if a new cover would fit due to the repair. But it did.
So I guess what I'm saying is maybe you could return your present bumper cover and buy the Eckler's, although it does cost about 50% more it does look more original. And yes I looked for a urethane bumper but no such luck.
I purchased my replacement bumper from Mid America Corevette. Since you bought yours from Ecklers... what are the difference between these two??? Or did you get a different one from Ecklers?
They look the same to me. I bought the flex fiberglass one but it isn't super flexible or pliable.
I purchased my replacement bumper from Mid America Corevette. Since you bought yours from Ecklers... what are the difference between these two??? Or did you get a different one from Ecklers?
They look the same to me. I bought the flex fiberglass one but it isn't super flexible or pliable.
Didn't know mid-america sold a two piece otherwise I would have looked into them. At the time I bought mine, five years ago I believed Ecklers were the only ones who made a two piece. Maybe I didn't look hard enough or maybe they didn't make them at the time. Whatever I'm real happy with the way it turned out.
I purchased my replacement bumper from Mid America Corevette. Since you bought yours from Ecklers... what are the difference between these two??? Or did you get a different one from Ecklers?
They look the same to me. I bought the flex fiberglass one but it isn't super flexible or pliable.
I looked at Mid America's product and I didn't see where it was a flex fit. Ecklers is but it's a $100 more. Not as flexible as a Urethane, but it does move some. Not sure how it would hold up to a 5mph bump in the rear but I'm sure better then a fiberglass. I'm not sure why anybody would buy a fiberglass one unless they wanted to glass in the seam.
here is a picture of the 1" gap between the bumper and the rear of the car. It just doesn't seem to fit correctly.
I also called Midamerica and they said that Tru Flex and flexible fiberglass are the same thing just different names. My bumper doesn't seem any more flexible than regular fiberglasss..??
I would agree the flex fit is closer to regular fiberglass then it is to urethane. But it does flex. Now I'm sure it wouldn't come close to not being damaged at a 5 mph hit, more like 1 mph anything more just fiqure on repairing the bumper.
so can you show the rear end without the bumper on, I had to take a lot of the rear light mounting parts off to get the bumper to go. Since you are not using the original style bumper the mounting parts for the tail lights are not needed. You simple mount them directly to the new fiberglass bumper. Mine mounted up great, not needing anything to fit. A little pushing and pulling when I tightened up the fasteners.
Thanks for the reply and sorry for the dark picture! I was messing around with it last night and it was pretty dark.
I knew that the I wouldn't need the old hardware for mounting the lights since they can attach right to the fiberglass. Maybe that is my issue since the old brackets are still on there... I will take a look when I get home and take a better picture!
...I knew that the I wouldn't need the old hardware for mounting the lights since they can attach right to the fiberglass. Maybe that is my issue since the old brackets are still on there...
The instructions with your bumper cover should spell out whether you can use the existing - and one year only - stock 74 set up or whether you have to use different lights with their bumper.
Before you get much further into this project, my advice would be to contact the manufacturer and see what's up.
The instructions with your bumper cover should spell out whether you can use the existing - and one year only - stock 74 set up or whether you have to use different lights with their bumper.
Before you get much further into this project, my advice would be to contact the manufacturer and see what's up.
...I've done both a '74 and a '75 rear bumper. The '74 is the easiest as the tailights mount independently of the bumper itself, another reason why '74 tailight lenses are "one year only" units. They have no chrome screws and mount from protruding studs on the "inside".
...yes, you must remove those black/grey plastic taillight mounting pieces/brackets. I also had to trim off about 2 inches off the bottoms of those vertical "bumpers"(metal with rubber strips on them?)on each side of the license plate. I also remember not using that piece that looks like an "A frame" house behind the C-O-R-V-E-T-T-E letters and leaving it off. My bumper came out great.
...if you have to "pull" the bumper in with the hardware, you will break the fiberglass flange. It should fit up easily with a very, very minimal gap. Have someone hold the bumper up while you're underneath and see what areas have to be cut or modified for it to fit right.
Last edited by Paul Borowski; Oct 11, 2012 at 10:17 PM.