Oh Crap, plastic tube inside diff
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Oh Crap, plastic tube inside diff
Well, I was just adding the Delco LSD additive with a syringe, and the plastic tube "fell off" and went into the black hole.
Went fishing, bought a boroscope and now cant drive the beast...
Need a simple instruction to remove the rear diff cover to go fishing again!!!https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ilies/eek6.gif
The car is a 72 coup, original suspension so I am thinking to restore the rear end at the same time.
any comments welcome. I'm "Down South Western Austrailia"...
Peter.
Went fishing, bought a boroscope and now cant drive the beast...
Need a simple instruction to remove the rear diff cover to go fishing again!!!https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ilies/eek6.gif
The car is a 72 coup, original suspension so I am thinking to restore the rear end at the same time.
any comments welcome. I'm "Down South Western Austrailia"...
Peter.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3,960
Likes: 1,106
Peter,
You might have better luck fishing if you remove most of the fluid first. I doubt if those "change the engine oil through the dipstick" devices are going to pull high viscosity grease out but a large syringe with a plastic tube (well attached this time!) should develop sufficient suction. I use these type syringes in wood working and they have a fairly large bore plastic tip and will develop a lot of suction/pressure for work with high viscosity adhesives. You can probably find them in many places but a wood working supply shop will have them and auto parts stores may have something similar that will work.
You might have better luck fishing if you remove most of the fluid first. I doubt if those "change the engine oil through the dipstick" devices are going to pull high viscosity grease out but a large syringe with a plastic tube (well attached this time!) should develop sufficient suction. I use these type syringes in wood working and they have a fairly large bore plastic tip and will develop a lot of suction/pressure for work with high viscosity adhesives. You can probably find them in many places but a wood working supply shop will have them and auto parts stores may have something similar that will work.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,334
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Removing the cover is far from simple since it's actually a structural part of the rear suspension.
Before going that far, remove the 1/2 shaft on the passenger side (to get more room to work) and get a long nose set of forceps, dickbill or curved and spend way more time fishing.
I know it's too late but next time, jam a needle through the tube / bottle neck to lock it in place
HIH
Mooser
Before going that far, remove the 1/2 shaft on the passenger side (to get more room to work) and get a long nose set of forceps, dickbill or curved and spend way more time fishing.
I know it's too late but next time, jam a needle through the tube / bottle neck to lock it in place
HIH
Mooser
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
Easier to drop the spare tire and tub. Go buy one of those flex 'grabbers' that have a plunger-button on one end and a four-spring-wire grabber that comes out the other. They are at every auto parts store and cost about $10. Go fishin'.... 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,023
Likes: 6
From: Austin Tx
Do you have a wet vac? It amazes me the number of times I pull this thing out!
Get some kind of small flexible hose - Lowes and Home Depot have many different sizes - and use some duct tape to attach it to the end of the hose on the wet vac. You should be able to use a small enough hose that you can twist it around and get into all the areas of the diff. I would try the largest hose possible first.
Get some kind of small flexible hose - Lowes and Home Depot have many different sizes - and use some duct tape to attach it to the end of the hose on the wet vac. You should be able to use a small enough hose that you can twist it around and get into all the areas of the diff. I would try the largest hose possible first.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 6,692
Likes: 29
From: Texas
Or make a suction device with a long plastic hose to connect to a vacuum port, a sturdy container (coffee can, thick walled glass jar), drill 2 holes in lid. Insert one hose piece into can and connect to vacuum port, insert a second hose into differential fill plug. Start car with hose connected to port and slowly put second hose into drain plug. You will be surprised how much suction you will have. It would implode a thin walled soup container from you local chinese restaurant in a literal second.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 7
From: Beringen
I sure as hell wouldn't want to try it. Not only can the plastic stick to the teeth, but it can get in between the clutches as well.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Oh Crap, plastic tube inside diff
Thanks every body, All comments read and appreciated.
Yes I have a vacc pump. Drained out the fluid. Inserted boroscope (TV on a stick) that is only 1/4 " diameter. looked at pictures and cant see the tube. problem is that the tubing is a NYLEX "hard plastic" about 6 " long.
So, I think I have to get the back off the diff.
What I need from all you C3 guys is a simple step insrtuction to access the back end of the diff.
I'm thinking.....
Remove exhaust
remove spare wheel and carrier
remove drive shafts
Basically get access to the rear cover to go fishing!
Please help!!!!!!!
Any constructive advice appreciated
There are only 3 C3s in this area and I'm talking the size of Taxas!!!!!
Well maybe not quite that big, but as they say in Aus F..ing big.
C3s RULE!!!!
when they go!!!!!!!!!!! girls get wet when they see this car..........https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...illy_nilly.gif
Peter
Yes I have a vacc pump. Drained out the fluid. Inserted boroscope (TV on a stick) that is only 1/4 " diameter. looked at pictures and cant see the tube. problem is that the tubing is a NYLEX "hard plastic" about 6 " long.
So, I think I have to get the back off the diff.
What I need from all you C3 guys is a simple step insrtuction to access the back end of the diff.
I'm thinking.....
Remove exhaust
remove spare wheel and carrier
remove drive shafts
Basically get access to the rear cover to go fishing!
Please help!!!!!!!
Any constructive advice appreciated
There are only 3 C3s in this area and I'm talking the size of Taxas!!!!!
Well maybe not quite that big, but as they say in Aus F..ing big.
C3s RULE!!!!
when they go!!!!!!!!!!! girls get wet when they see this car..........https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...illy_nilly.gif
Peter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,400
Likes: 59
From: Emerald Isle NC
You should be able to drop it without removing the exhaust.
Remove spring
Remove struts
Unbolt front of snubber bushing
Disconnect 1/2 shafts. Move out of way.
Disconnect driveshaft at diff.
Trans. jack under diff a couple of inches.
Loosen crossmember bolts.
Pry crossmember loose. Raise jack to support diff.
Remove crossmember bolts.
Lower diff. Shift sideways/twist to clear exhaust.
Pull diff out from under.
Replace all bolts, snubber bushing, and diff cover seal. Good time to upgrade to HD diff cover. Replace vent, if needed. Clean well if not.
Inspect diff, side yokes, R&P, all other seals, and the fluid. Get all the old fluid/metal out now.
Good time to go to Heim jointed struts, paint/powdercoat all that bolts to diff.
There's more I'm sure, and "while I'm at it" will kill you on this job. It should. Do everything you can think of/afford while the diff is out, i.e. get the diff rebuilt NOW!!
Good luck. It's not as bad as you would think at first glance.
Carter
Remove spring
Remove struts
Unbolt front of snubber bushing
Disconnect 1/2 shafts. Move out of way.
Disconnect driveshaft at diff.
Trans. jack under diff a couple of inches.
Loosen crossmember bolts.
Pry crossmember loose. Raise jack to support diff.
Remove crossmember bolts.
Lower diff. Shift sideways/twist to clear exhaust.
Pull diff out from under.
Replace all bolts, snubber bushing, and diff cover seal. Good time to upgrade to HD diff cover. Replace vent, if needed. Clean well if not.
Inspect diff, side yokes, R&P, all other seals, and the fluid. Get all the old fluid/metal out now.
Good time to go to Heim jointed struts, paint/powdercoat all that bolts to diff.
There's more I'm sure, and "while I'm at it" will kill you on this job. It should. Do everything you can think of/afford while the diff is out, i.e. get the diff rebuilt NOW!!
Good luck. It's not as bad as you would think at first glance.
Carter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
You should be able to drop it without removing the exhaust.
Remove spring
Remove struts
Unbolt front of snubber bushing
Disconnect 1/2 shafts. Move out of way.
Disconnect driveshaft at diff.
Trans. jack under diff a couple of inches.
Loosen crossmember bolts.
Pry crossmember loose. Raise jack to support diff.
Remove crossmember bolts.
Lower diff. Shift sideways/twist to clear exhaust.
Pull diff out from under.
Replace all bolts, snubber bushing, and diff cover seal. Good time to upgrade to HD diff cover. Replace vent, if needed. Clean well if not.
Inspect diff, side yokes, R&P, all other seals, and the fluid. Get all the old fluid/metal out now.
Good time to go to Heim jointed struts, paint/powdercoat all that bolts to diff.
There's more I'm sure, and "while I'm at it" will kill you on this job. It should. Do everything you can think of/afford while the diff is out, i.e. get the diff rebuilt NOW!!
Good luck. It's not as bad as you would think at first glance.
Carter
Remove spring
Remove struts
Unbolt front of snubber bushing
Disconnect 1/2 shafts. Move out of way.
Disconnect driveshaft at diff.
Trans. jack under diff a couple of inches.
Loosen crossmember bolts.
Pry crossmember loose. Raise jack to support diff.
Remove crossmember bolts.
Lower diff. Shift sideways/twist to clear exhaust.
Pull diff out from under.
Replace all bolts, snubber bushing, and diff cover seal. Good time to upgrade to HD diff cover. Replace vent, if needed. Clean well if not.
Inspect diff, side yokes, R&P, all other seals, and the fluid. Get all the old fluid/metal out now.
Good time to go to Heim jointed struts, paint/powdercoat all that bolts to diff.
There's more I'm sure, and "while I'm at it" will kill you on this job. It should. Do everything you can think of/afford while the diff is out, i.e. get the diff rebuilt NOW!!
Good luck. It's not as bad as you would think at first glance.
Carter
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
I would not want melted plastic to be smearing my limited-slip clutches in the diffy. Even if the gears chew the plastic up into small pieces, when they get between the clutch plates and they slip, that plastic will heat/melt/smear or get into the bearings. Then, you not only have to remove the diffy guts, but you also get to do a complete rebuild.
I'd keep searching with the bore-o-scope or fishin' for the tube.
I'd keep searching with the bore-o-scope or fishin' for the tube.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3,960
Likes: 1,106
I agree with the others on don't run it with the plastic piece in there. Plastic is not a good differential lube additive and the pieces/remains could do something really unfortunate.
If you have all the differential lube out stick an angled air nozzle on your compressor hose and shoot some jets of air in there. With any luck it will cause the plastic tube to move from a place where you cannot see it to a place where you can.
If you have all the differential lube out stick an angled air nozzle on your compressor hose and shoot some jets of air in there. With any luck it will cause the plastic tube to move from a place where you cannot see it to a place where you can.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,334
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Once you drain the fluid (suck)
Maybe try sticking an airline in (firmly attached) and give a few blasts of air, might move the tube around to somewhere you can find / see it.
Put the airline in and place a rag or something around it so fluid doesn't fly everywhere. give a few blasts of air, check maybe move it around and try again
Nothing to loose at this point
M
Maybe try sticking an airline in (firmly attached) and give a few blasts of air, might move the tube around to somewhere you can find / see it.
Put the airline in and place a rag or something around it so fluid doesn't fly everywhere. give a few blasts of air, check maybe move it around and try again
Nothing to loose at this point
M
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 379
From: Woodinville WA
I get your concern, but, honestly, plastic melts at 450 degrees - go race your vette for a couple hours at the local track. Tube turns into vapor... problem solved.
The step by step above is 3-4 hours of solid work.
The step by step above is 3-4 hours of solid work.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3,960
Likes: 1,106
Careful. It may melt but it probably won't get hot enough to vaporize unless you reach the point where it catches on fire - and if the rear end gets that hot you have bigger problems. If it melts and the goop is redistributed and solidified it is likely to be in spots where you don't want it.
My Ph.D. is in business, not chemistry, so you are better off talking to a chemist. But my guess is that if you get it hot enough to melt you are now conducting a little chemistry experiment in the rear end and the makeup of the new melted compound may have far different characteristics than the original. You may create an abrasive powder additive, a new plastic with a much higher melting point than the original, or an improved limited slip additive. To paraphrase Clint Eastwood, " Are you feeling lucky today"
My Ph.D. is in business, not chemistry, so you are better off talking to a chemist. But my guess is that if you get it hot enough to melt you are now conducting a little chemistry experiment in the rear end and the makeup of the new melted compound may have far different characteristics than the original. You may create an abrasive powder additive, a new plastic with a much higher melting point than the original, or an improved limited slip additive. To paraphrase Clint Eastwood, " Are you feeling lucky today"
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Thanks again for the comments.
One of my Son's friends is a motor mechanic .He has offered to help and he also has "all the tools".
So when the diff is out, and I have found the missing tube, Ill post back.
Peter
One of my Son's friends is a motor mechanic .He has offered to help and he also has "all the tools".
So when the diff is out, and I have found the missing tube, Ill post back.
Peter