Sounds like a good plan I went with the 1104 cam. Pretty mild - but it's perfect for the mild street motor we have. I wasn't concerned with a idle that rocked the windows in the house etc. Just a cruiser and wanted something with good vacuum. Seems to work well for our needs and pulls almost exactly where the specs say it will.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet

Adam

 

I'll be using heads with a 64cc chamber and a .015" compressed thickness gasket, my compression ratio calculator gives me a 9.49:1 Static Compression Ratio, and a 7.81:1 Dynamic Compression Ratio, which sounds good to me. My quench, assuming a .025" deck height, (haven't had the heads off yet, so I'm just using .025" in my calculations, we'll see when the heads come off.) is at .040" with the .015" gasket, but it's a dished piston, so I'm not sure that the tight quench will really do me much good. I guess it can't hurt, though, right? I think 7.81:1 is a pretty good amount of compression, but still leaves plenty of margin for error, and should run well on 93 octane gas, what do you think? Also, what kind of vacuum are you pulling with this cam? I'm hoping to stay above 16". I have been researching quite a bit, lately, and have been reading that if you keep the two side of a dual-plane manifold separated, it can really boost low end power and idle vacuum, how is your carb attached to the manifold? Is there any way for signal to sneak back and forth between the two planes?


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

If Summit offered a cam in between the 1102 and the 1103, 214/.442", 112 LSA, that would have been my choice. 50 bucks!

The Flo-Tek heads have an intake/exhaust ratio over 80% at all lift points, (I think it's due more to a weak intake, rather than a strong exhaust, if you get what I mean) so they may work well with a straight grind cam like we have.

What kind of vacuum are you pulling at idle with that cam? BTW, I love your avatar!!!!


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

Hey Scotty,

With the idle set at 800 (seems to work the best) We have 16" of vacuum. The prices on the Summit cams are fantastic! Works well with the compression ratio we have (9.4) and the heads (1.94). It just seems to all work together well.

The avatar - One of my pet peeves I guess. lol

Adam

 

I'm using 4 5/16" bolts to attach my carb to the manifold.



That's the intake I'm using (someone else's photo, looks like it belongs to a forum member actually - SteveG75)

I have a spare one that's never been run, but it'd need some clean up machining.

 

Originally Posted by REELAV8R View Post
That link was just a re-posting of your link I ment to quote it from your post.

Those heads are certainly cheaper. They sound like the same head under a different name almost. I don't know anything about Flo-Tek and their reliability. I do like Dart due to their reputation so feel a little more certain that they will work well and last.

I have long tube headers on mine for side pipes. They are less than ideal though with 1 7/8 primaries. Hooker side pipe headers are a one size fits all sort of deal. I like the way they sound and look though. Sounds like you have a pretty good exhaust set up with H pipe and all. Good for low end torque, that is, and the rpm range you intend to operate at.
I believe the main restriction in your and my set-up will be the intake manifold since it has to fit under the stock hood. Due to this I am going to focus on low end flow and torque, much like you are doing. Get all the power I can under 5000 RPM mostly around 3000 to 3500 range.

 

Scottyp99 I'm wondering what influenced you the most to stop at a 116/116 cam?
I'm going to be using the same heads and I can see why you settle on a single pattern cam. I figure on doing the same. Now i'm looking at two cams as one of the two that I would like to settle on.
Considered the k1104 but after some reading it looks like it may be a little flat in the mid range.
this one looks really good to me.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...make/chevrolet

However if I can be so greedy I would like to go as big as this one;

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...make/chevrolet

Just not sure it a 3.08 rear end with a Th350 and a 2400 stall converter would net me enough rear end torque to handle the bigger cam.

 

Would an engine even be able to run with a cam that only had 116 degrees of duration?

My 'vette has the 3.07 diff, close enough to yours to call it the same thing, but I will be using a 700r4 transmission. The 3.06 first gear of the 700r4 will make the final drive in first gear approximately equal to that of a th350 with a 3.73 diff gear. But, (there's always a but, isn't there?) the price you pay for that low first gear is a wide space between gears. So, you need an engine with a nice, wide powerband to use the 700r4. That's one of the reasons I didn't want to get too carried away with the cam. Also, the converter I plan on using has a factory rated stall speed of 2075 rpm. It's the stock converter for a '96 Chevy S-10 with a 4.3 V-6. About 100 clams from Rock Auto. So, I don't have that much stall speed to play with. More than the stock th350 converter that is in the car now, though. Another thing is that I want my car to be relatively docile until I step on the loud pedal. Oh, almost forgot, I'm stuck with the dished pistons since I'm not re-building the bottom end, which should give me something in the neighborhood of about 9.5:1 SCR, and I don't want the DCR to be too low. And finally, I wanted to go with a cam that had at least 50 degrees of Hydraulic Intensity, and I didn't want to pay a lot of money for it. Also, I figure the straight grind cam will work well with a head that has an intake/exhaust ratio like the Flo-Tek heads do. That's about everything I took into consideration making my decision on that camshaft.

I'm definitely no expert when it comes to this sort of thing, I asked a lot of dumb questions on this forum, more than a few members were patient with me while I waded through it all, and most of what I learned was specific to my particular combination, but I would say that you have a good amount of stall, which will let you get the rpms up quickly when launching, but your final drive in first gear is pretty low, numerically speaking, so you will want some torque down low. Also, remember that a big cam with lots of duration will lower your DCR, and a low DCR will make the engine a dog at lower rpms, so be aware of that. Also, remember the old saying "When trying to decide between two cams, pick the smaller cam.". The first cam you listed is pretty similar to the one I chose, maybe a teeny bit more aggressive on the Hydraulic Intensity, so I think that is the one I would choose.

Camshaft experts, how did I do? Have I given good advice, or am I full of crap?


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

I'll disagree on that one!
You should either look at two big cams then pick the smaller one or just get a "Sealed Power" OEM rebuild cam.
Like I said before I build an engine around the cam and everything big.

 

Different strokes for different folks! I've said it before, and I'll say it again: asking for someone else's opinion on what cam to run is like asking someone else how much hot sauce to use. Some people like to feel a little tingle, so they'll say "Only use a little.". Some people want the skin to melt off the roof of their mouth, and they'll say "Pour it on, you sissy!". I think Tim is one of the latter! I guess the only real way to tell is to take a taste and see what happens.


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

Thanks the advise sounds like you've done quite a bit of home work. My build is very similar (well almost identical) to yours so I figure we're baisically in the same boat.
Here's what I would like to happen. Have a cam that is small enough to provide good torque at 2200 rpms and big enough to still pull hard through 5000 rpm with my 9.5:1 CR. I'm hoping that the 2400 stall converter can get me a little more duration and to make up for the loss of DCR at low rpms. Sure would like to see some dyno charts on various builds with these cams.
The intensity of the xe cams concerns me a little. It seems this would be hard on valve train components and make it noisy. I've read where some people claim this and others do not. I can see the obvious benefit of lifting the valve quickly and setting it down quickly thereby creating effectively a longer duration at greater valve openings and I like the idea of all that. Also the potential to wipe a lobe seems more likely but I've read both ways on that too
Having read David Vizard's books on cams he makes it sound as if I am still too small with the 270H. Then I have to factor in that his builds are all about power. I still need some vacuum and a wider LSA than most of the stuff he talks about. That changes the equation in ways that I haven't wrapped my head around yet.
What I need to do is download an experience app for my brain. This way I would know the answer without having to vasilate back and forth and still not know if I'm gonna get it right in the end.

 

I have done some homework, but I don't really have much in the way of practical experience when it comes to how a certain cam is going to "feel" in a certain engine/drivetrain combo. It's all "booklernin'" with me right now. One thing my gut tells me, though, is if you are looking for a fun street car, with a lot of throttle resonse, take the advice of racers with a grain of salt. They tend to like big, high rpm horsepower, but I think you and I are looking for something different. Racers want a car that is fast, while we want a car that feels fast, if you get what I mean. I say stay on the conservative side with the cam. Let's say, keep your duration under around 220 degrees at .050".

The "experience app" you mentioned made me laugh, because it made me think of that scene in The Matrix where he says "Woah......I know Kung Fu!"


Keep the shiny side up!
Scott

 

You hit the nail on the head. I know the car cannot be fast given it's current condition. Fast=$$$$$. $$$$$= pissed off wife. Pissed off wife = no fun for me.
So in order to get my cake and eat it too I would like the car to "feel" fast and torquey and sound fast. Ya a bit of a poser, but less so than now. I would have to agree with staying below 220 @.050. I'm now back to considering a spilt duration cam from Lunati. Like that it still has a intense profile but can set the valve back down gentle enough to not hammer out the valve seat or cause bounce.

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1983&gid=287

Kind of wondering with a split duration due to the exhaust valve hanging open a little longer does this cause a big drop in fuel economy vs the single pattern cam of similar duration. You read or heard anything on that?

 

Here is my opinion (really),
An Edelbrock performer cam and a set of 64 cc 202/160 valve heads.
You talk about king of the road, I did it and its my always "ace in the hole" near stock upgrade.


Try to keep all the lobes of the cam up at the same time!!!