Full synthetic. I just changed a trans for a customer not long ago. I swithched her to Full Synthetic at 30,000 miles, now at 160,000 miles. While the trans was down I replaced the oil pump as I was near it. I pulled the #5 main just out of curiosity. The bearings were still as grey as a new set. Her truck still runs at 55mph about 75psi maybe 80psi it's difficult to gauge the way the marks are on her gauge.
She has it changed every 3,000 even with the oil being full synthetic. I change mine at 2,500 myself. I run the full synthetic in my mowers, generator, tiller and any other internal combustion engine I have around here.
Sometimes when knurling valve guides I'll use it when the resizer is a little tight.

 

It is possible that you still have that leak under the dash. You can usually be able to see the connection with the small panel removed at the front of your console, check and be sure it is not disconnected or leaking bad now!

 

My 2002 Impala has 156600 on it and im using regular conventional oil and change every 5000 miles so your basically over paying for synthetic oil and under using it also.

 

I would use 15w-50 Mobil one. You get the zinc protection for your flat tappet engine and full synthetic oil wear protection as well. It's relatively cheap at Walmart $27.00 for 5 quart jug. Change it at the interval you deem necessary.
Personally in my Corvette I change it once a year or every 5000 miles. Since I only put a max of 2000 miles per year on the car it never sees 5000 miles.
In my daily drivers Mobil 1 0w-30 is good for 10,000 miles with filter change at 5000.

 

Thats OK for roller lifters but its not good for friction making hydrolic lifters and cam.

 

this seems to be the case here.

 

RobRace 10 nailed it. I had an oil line fail at the gauge in a 67 Chevelle, it looked like the Exxon Valdeze in the amount of time it takes to realize hot oil is hitting your feet. At about 40-psi, it's amazing how much can be dumped in such a short period of time. Cat-ster, you might meet with the man, talk to him in a polite but resolute way and if he won't make things good....then indeed haul his sorry a-- to small claims court. And don't let this dim your affection for your '69.

 

Completely agree! I have a 69 and a 71 both with oil soaked carpeting (behind the cluster only) and trashed radios when I bought them. If you have oil soaked seatbelts, there was one hell of a unobstructed spray releasing inside of your car. In fact, I would be willing to bet the center cluster was not installed when the car was started and the oil started to spew.

Terry

 

No argument from me there. I reguarly rev my Corvette to 5000 rpm also, my daily drivers rarely see over 3000 rpm. Lots more heat and shearing going on at 5000 with a flat tappet V8 engine. It just so happens that Mobil one 15w-50 offers over 1000 ppm of zinc in a synthetic oil. I would be just as happy (well almost) with a conventional oil if I could get the same quality and zinc at a similar price.

 

so your basically over paying for synthetic oil and under using it also.[/QUOTE]

Negative. I buy it for the shop in 55 gallon drums, so the cost is insignificant. If I chose to keep it in longer, I'd change the filter at 2,500 to 3,000 anyway. While I'm under it, and really not much differance in cost for me, I just change it.
My personal truck is a dodge ram 2500 with just over 200,000 miles on it. I haven't seen the mains, so I didn't mention my truck, but it still runs the same oil pressure as it did it's first day.
I have to say, it leads a ruff life with towing and hauling.

 

If you have oil soaked seatbelts, there was one hell of a unobstructed spray releasing inside of your car. In fact, I would be willing to bet the center cluster was not installed when the car was started and the oil started to spew.

Terry[/QUOTE]



Otherwise to fill the compartment that deep it would have come close to pumping the pan empty. If this is the case they would have had to put forth some effort to clean the seats and the rest of the pass. compartment

 

Well Sir Tim H, I'm on the hunt for a boyfriend to take care of me so I don't get hosed. Lol
I ended calling a friend from Texas who tested the car before i bought it to assess the damage. Transmission leak is worse than before it went in, oil damage to the interior (carpets, floor mats, seat belts), the left exhaust pipe is bent, hanging and now needs repairing, there is a B&M converter for the transmission that was set and working which now doesn't function properly, they emptied a half tank of gas to check everything to ensure everything worked and no leaks, and to top it all off I have a long crack on the left fender and two short cracks on the right fender. There was one small crack in the spoiler, which i pointed out to the shop owner before they took it in. I have only owned and driven the car for 106 miles. That includes miles they put on it :-(
The oil on the dipstick was at the bottom of the A for add oil. I did find more oil on the console and took pictures. Again, I'm fearful of letting him do any,ore work on my car, especially since I found the cracked fenders and figured out they damaged my exhaust. I have pictures of the exhaust before it went to them, not bent or hanging.
I'm going first thing in the morning to talk to him but so far, I can't find anyone to go with me. Wish me luck :-) radiotexas- I still love my girl :-)

 

Now you're talking more than small claims maybe. In your state it may be different than here. If you weren't so far away, I'd like to go with you. I'd enjoy this discussion. It sounds like a big joy ride may have taken place.
The PO may come in handy when and if you have to substantiate the condition before they got it.

 

Howdy Y'all, here's an update and I just needed a little more info.
The recap of the situation is my 69 red on red convertible corvette went in for electrical rewire, a minor transmission leak, make the fans come on automatic ( they were manual) and make the radio tie to the ignition. It came out with a bent and damaged exhaust, badly leaking transmission pan, oil damaged interior ( both driver & passenger sides including seat belts), a jacked B&M converter, and cracked fenders.
So far the owner wants to work on the transmission, assess the oil damaged and see if it was his fault, if so or not he is willing to clean it or replace it himself. He might be willing to split the cost of the exhaust. He will look at the convert wiring to make sure it is hooked up properly. He will not cover the fenders.
Question... He says the oil leak was there when I brought it in. It started when the started the car up. That's why they had to pull the console. There was no way it could have leaked without them pulling the console.
Now, the mechanic who worked on it ( not the owner who told me he would be doing 95% of the work) said he found a kink in the line. My theory is " he is lying". My gauges worked but I can't prove it. So lets say there was indeed a kink in the line. Could he have accidentally pulled it put while working in the engine compartment? Forgot about it? Started the car causing oil to spill into the floorboards? I have to ask because I don't see oil on the seats. Just all over the floor, mats, and belts. Oh and on the passengers side console. Thoughts?
He firmly believes his guys didn't drive the car. But his guy lied to me and him be ukase when I picked it up, he told me and my friend he did not get to go but "they" did. They drove up shields to get things running and put it up on the lift to check for leaks. But they didn't see any lol there's a big leak on the transmission bolt (stripped). I have no faith in his team and I told him so.
He wants me to leave the car with him for two weeks to do this work. OK law says I have to give him a chance to make it right. I can't afford to sue.
So please let me know if he the console story makes sense... I need to sound knowledgeable... Otherwise, I may just walk away.

 

How far are you from Tulsa or OK City? Maybe there is a CF member who could help you from this point on. Maybe there is a CF member who is a lawyer not far from you who could offer some advice. Almost anything can be fixed if you throw enough money at it, but that's not something you want to get into unless you win the mega lotto. Hang in there.

 

Your climbing a mud fence.
Just park the car and cut your losses and move on.

 

I am in Oklahoma City. I have made some contacts through this process (specialty shops). Tim H... She's safe in my garage and will stay there for now. You all have been great! Thank you so much!
I'm sure I will be back with technical questions down the road.

Have a great day!

 

You're probably in a no win situation unless there is positive proof on your side that these things did not exist when you brought the car in. And even then he can claim all day long that when he got to it the problems did exist.
I'd say from what you are telling us that this guy is lying and not to be trusted. I would absolutely not take it back to him unless or until you take legal action.
Even then an unscrupulous mechanic can cause you plenty of problems with your car down the road that won't show up till after you leave the shop because he is bitter.

 

I've dealt with that oil line. There are two ways it could make a real mess.

Way #1: The line is the original plastic nylon POS and it was tugged/pulled/kinked during the removal OR replacement of the instrument cluster. VERY easy to do...especially if you aren't expecting the 'live' oil connection.

Way #2: The stupid little ferrule (which is tough to find) was IN ANY WAY damaged or not re-seated properly during removal OR replacement. It should be replaced when disconnected, but I don't know where to get one other than ordering a complete replacement line and getting the ferrule off one of those new lines. That's how I did it anyway.

As others have said, it is under full pressure, so a MASSIVE amount of oil escapes in a small amount of time. Doing electrical work, it is very reasonable that they pulled the cluster. If they don't have a lot of experience with C3 Corvettes, doing some type of damage is very easy.

I would recommend replacing the nylon oil line with a 1/8" copper line. It is a standard upgrade.

 

I wouldn't let them touch it again.

You paid with a CC right? I had a similar situation with a small shop and they didn't want to cooperate. I called my CC company and filed a dispute...next day I had the money back. They said to take pictures, keep receipts, and write everything down. They get the money from the shop who can come back, but they have to prove your side wrong. They have 30 days (I think) to say anything or it's case closed. Fortunately, I never heard back from the shop.

Just an idea...it seems though that the money you already spent would be enough to fix the new problems somewhere else.