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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 02:02 PM
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Default Newbie needs help with paint/body work

Hello, i recently picked up a 75 numbers matching, L-48 with 86,000 original miles. the body is in rough shape and needs repairs, sanded and repainted. It is my understanding these cars aren't worth very much and cant spend $5,000 plus on a paint job if the investment wont be worth it. i don't mind putting time into this vehicle and plan to do the body work myself but i am a nervous about the paint. has anyone used the paint kits they sell at Summit racing or something equivalent? they seem to range in the 250.00-350.00. i'm not looking for a show quality finish but i don't want to kill myself on the body just to botch a paint job. any input on paint types, painting tips, really i'm a newbie so any input at all would be very helpful and appreciated.
~Corey
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 03:03 PM
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there is a whole forum on it located here:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/paint-body-138/

start reading and best of luck to ya!

Dub is the guy to talk to for sure.

Sully
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Sully1882
there is a whole forum on it located here:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/paint-body-138/

start reading and best of luck to ya!

Dub is the guy to talk to for sure.

Sully
Thanks Sully i looked around but didnt find what i was looking for. the link you provided is exactly what i needed.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 03:37 PM
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im finishing up on a repaint of my 72 and it really is a chore. But you learn a lot about fiberglass work along the way and it can be done. Paint, primer and sealer should all be from the same manufacturer or at least confirmed that they will work together. Not all can be intermingled! If I were you I'd check amazon for some books on fiberglass repair. Strip the body, fix the cracks, primer and block it all out and then you can simply use a single stage that could be buffed out nicely. That would probably be the cheapest way to go with you doing the elbow work and getting a decent driver quality paint job. The quality is all in the prep work though. No doubt.

Sully
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 07:31 PM
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Call Barry at Southern Polyurethanes in Ga. He will become your best friend and mentor. They sell quality primers and clear coat along with walking you thru the whole process. I must have called him at least 25 times and every time he was patient and helpful. Working with fiberglass is very much different from steel bodied cars and you can cost yourself money and heartbreak if you do it wrong.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 07:56 PM
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You are at the very beginning of a long journey. If you were at the starting line heading towards 100 mph, you'd be at 5mph right now. You have a lot to learn. The more you learn and know, and start slow, the better the final product will look. Fortunately, there are a lot of good resources out there waiting for you. Take your time to learn BEFORE you make mistakes.

Secondly, get ready for paint expenses that far eclipse what you've been seeing thus far.

Good luck!
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by coreyt
...any input on...painting tips...would be...appreciated...
Bodywork and paint prep you could do. You may want to consider letting a pro put on the color coats. The paints available these days are much more advanced than the old solvent based lacquer a lot of us learned to paint with.

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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
Bodywork and paint prep you could do. You may want to consider letting a pro put on the color coats. The paints available these days are much more advanced than the old solvent based lacquer a lot of us learned to paint with.

Mike is experienced and a wise guy. That is exactly what I did, all the stripping and priming is an enormous task but one you can do. Mine is now at the shop for final paint. One thing that happened to me and others I have seen here, I sanded all the paint off, primed it with epoxy, sanded, primed it again, blocked it, primed again, and blocked for the second time. The first thing my painter did was grab a sanding block. He has to warrant the final product so he is doing it his way.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 05:14 PM
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Hi Corey,
You've gotten some good advice already!
I'll only add that the bodywork and preparation for painting is a LOT of work.
I believe once you begin to see that you'll realize that cutting back on the cost of the primer, sealer, and top coat, you select, may not be a very good thing to do.
I think you want to use the best products you can for your situation.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by CHarper
Mike is experienced and a wise guy. That is exactly what I did, all the stripping and priming is an enormous task but one you can do. Mine is now at the shop for final paint. One thing that happened to me and others I have seen here, I sanded all the paint off, primed it with epoxy, sanded, primed it again, blocked it, primed again, and blocked for the second time. The first thing my painter did was grab a sanding block. He has to warrant the final product so he is doing it his way.
where in Georgia did you take your car to be painted? I am in Pensacola, fl and am having a hard time finding a trustworthy person to do the body work on my 82 and repainted it. It doesnt need much body work aside from prep and blending in the new front and rear bumpers i bought.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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Big Daddy's Body Shop in Valdosta Ga came highly recommended by the paint supplier. Have seen a couple of mustangs that they did and looked better than new. They take their time but I would rather have a quality job at a much lower price than I have seen quoted here than a poor quickie. Owners name is Derrick.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 09:12 PM
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PPG base coat clear coat is the way to go a little more but worth it.
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by CHarper
Mike is experienced and a wise guy. That is exactly what I did, all the stripping and priming is an enormous task but one you can do. Mine is now at the shop for final paint. One thing that happened to me and others I have seen here, I sanded all the paint off, primed it with epoxy, sanded, primed it again, blocked it, primed again, and blocked for the second time. The first thing my painter did was grab a sanding block. He has to warrant the final product so he is doing it his way.
Me too!
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Old Nov 8, 2012 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by CHarper
Mike is experienced and a wise guy. That is exactly what I did, all the stripping and priming is an enormous task but one you can do. Mine is now at the shop for final paint. One thing that happened to me and others I have seen here, I sanded all the paint off, primed it with epoxy, sanded, primed it again, blocked it, primed again, and blocked for the second time. The first thing my painter did was grab a sanding block. He has to warrant the final product so he is doing it his way.
This is my plan too. I have spent the last 5 months removing paint, razor blade and sandpaper, making numerous fiberglass repairs, and now finally it's ready for the epoxy primer. After I spray it on I'll put the body back onto the chassis and assemble the car. And adjust the fit of all parts. I plan on spraying a hi build primer and blocking the car to get it close. Then off to a pro for his finesse and final paint. I'm not ruining 5 months of labor on the " chance" I may get the final finish right. My neighbor who has a nice booth set up screwed up his final paint last week. He was able to sand it out and make it presentable but I'll pay a pro to do it right.
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