Trailer Questions
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 249
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Trailer Questions
Morning all.... I am contemplating purchasing an open car trailer. I've done some searching on Ebay and Craigslist for prices and equipment, but I'm not too familiar with them. We have a Denali for towing and the GVW for towing is 8500 lbs, so i would be ok.. An aluminum trailer would be nice, but probably is out of my range.... How long of a trailer should i be looking for? Any options I should check into.? Any brands to shy away from.. I need a good schooling, so would appreciate anyones comments. thanks folks.. Andy
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2005
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2018 Corvette of Year Finalist
2017 C3 of Year
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 10,189
Likes: 206
2018 Corvette of Year Finalist
2017 C3 of Year
I hear ya!You might try giving Paul (owner) a call at Cargo. He is the man, and he might have just what your looking for. In any event he will give you best advice. Good luck
My enclosed trailer has become a stationary garage..........
WB
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,908
Likes: 129
From: Fredericksburg Virginia
I owned a 20' long dovetail utility trailer before I owned my Vette. It is a good length, but you could probably get by with a 18' pretty easy.
The advantage is that I can use it for LOTS of stuff around the house. I use it ALL the time. And if that is your plan, know that you can't skid steer load bulk mulch into an enclosed trailer. My 10k# capacity Leonard was $2,400.
If this is JUST for the car, I would get a car trailer. They are lower and easier to load a car with their longer ramps and more gentle breakover. I would still want a solid middle, though. Just in case you wand to carry something else sometime.
The advantage is that I can use it for LOTS of stuff around the house. I use it ALL the time. And if that is your plan, know that you can't skid steer load bulk mulch into an enclosed trailer. My 10k# capacity Leonard was $2,400.
If this is JUST for the car, I would get a car trailer. They are lower and easier to load a car with their longer ramps and more gentle breakover. I would still want a solid middle, though. Just in case you wand to carry something else sometime.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,240
Likes: 1,013
From: Watkinsville, GA and Glen Cove, NY
I would go with at least a 16 footer. Dovetail rear is nice and makes loading easier. Make sure the wheel fenders of the trailer are lower than the open door of your car (very applicable to Corvettes). I would advise having trailer brakes on both axles (at least 3500lb) and a breakaway switch. I have an 18 footer with a dovetail and a diamond plate steel deck. Paid 2000.00 about 7 years ago. I bought mine from Trailers for less just south of Atlanta.
Bill
Bill
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4,705
Likes: 983
From: Orlando FL
Mine is a 16 foot, open center, with "D" rings in the floors, ratchets in the front for straps, a tool box on the front. Got the trailer new, with trailer hitch & brake controller for the truck, all for $1800.
http://i569.photobucket.com/albums/s...te1loading.jpg
http://i569.photobucket.com/albums/s...te1loading.jpg
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,865
Likes: 1
From: I may be getting old but I refuse to grow up
I built a 14' open center beavertail 20 years ago with dual 3500# axles, I've had everything from a 29 Pontiac to a 77 Sierra to an 85 Riviera without a problem. It tows the Vette great and I've had many compliments from those that have borrowed it over the years. If I were to do it agian I would build 16'
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 840
Likes: 4
From: Syracuse IN
We have an Imperial car hauler, 23' excellant trailer. Over kill for a Vette, but a smaller unit would work great. Imperial's are the top of the line for open car haulers. I would guess we have well over 50,000 miles on the trailer. A 19' would be great for a Vette.
Here is a link
http://www.imperialtrailer.com/carhaulers.asp#
Here is a link
http://www.imperialtrailer.com/carhaulers.asp#
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,335
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Short ramps plus too much angle on the tail can be an issue.
Borrowed a open trailer once and the beavertail (dovetail) was at an angle that was too steep and my vette frame touched while the back wheels were coming up the ramps, just enough that we needed to back the car off (didn't run of course) and put a 2x6 under the end of each ramp, that was just the little bit it needed.
Personally I'd go for a closed deck, keeps road crud from coming up onto the bottom of the car if your having to pull in the rain or ???
Some open trailers have removable or swing-away fenders to help you open the car door once it's on
A winch is a handy item since frequently the car going onto the trailer doesn't move under it's own power.
Storage box at the front where you can leave and lock all your straps, chains, etc.
Just a few items to consider.
HIH
Mooser
Borrowed a open trailer once and the beavertail (dovetail) was at an angle that was too steep and my vette frame touched while the back wheels were coming up the ramps, just enough that we needed to back the car off (didn't run of course) and put a 2x6 under the end of each ramp, that was just the little bit it needed.
Personally I'd go for a closed deck, keeps road crud from coming up onto the bottom of the car if your having to pull in the rain or ???
Some open trailers have removable or swing-away fenders to help you open the car door once it's on
A winch is a handy item since frequently the car going onto the trailer doesn't move under it's own power.
Storage box at the front where you can leave and lock all your straps, chains, etc.
Just a few items to consider.
HIH
Mooser
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4,705
Likes: 983
From: Orlando FL
I also use the D rings with tire straps on the front of most every car we haul.
http://i569.photobucket.com/albums/s...to/vette4b.jpg
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Irma Northern WI
I have an 18' H&H Speedloader. You dont need ramps since the bed tilts. I can drive my Corvette on the trailer and open the doors without issues. H&H is nolonger in business but used ones come up from time to time. They are strong and excellent trailers. Like was stated before, get one with two brake axles and the DOT kit. Do a web search, you will likely find one.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,865
Likes: 1
From: I may be getting old but I refuse to grow up
I have an 18' H&H Speedloader. You dont need ramps since the bed tilts. I can drive my Corvette on the trailer and open the doors without issues. H&H is nolonger in business but used ones come up from time to time. They are strong and excellent trailers. Like was stated before, get one with two brake axles and the DOT kit. Do a web search, you will likely find one.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,908
Likes: 129
From: Fredericksburg Virginia
I'm a huge fan of braking both axles.
I'm also a HUGE fan of having a little more room than you need.
I normally trailer my tractor and loads of stone/mulch. Sometimes I have attachments or other things that shift the load forward or backward.
Having that 2 or so feet of extra room (16 feet to 18 feet) makes a MASSIVE difference in the "towability" of the trailer by getting the correct (10% to 15%) of the load weight on the tongue by being able to place your load forward or backward.
If you get a trailer that is JUUUUST long enough for your car, you won't have any variability/flexibility in how or where you load it. Fine if you're saving money, but you'll be kicking yourself when it actually comes to TOWING the car/trailer. I promise. Speaking from experience. That's how I ended up with a 20 foot long trailer.
Not that you need 20 feet. I think 18 feet is a great length. 7k# capacity is pleanty. Bear in mind that you need to take the weight of the trailer out of the capacity and a closed-deck steel trailer (wood or metal) weighs a solid 2k#. And plan on making some modifications. I added 12 D-rings to mine, but I'm probably going to put a set of E-Tracks in mine keyed to the width of my car so I can strap the tires down instead of using chains.
I'm also a HUGE fan of having a little more room than you need.
I normally trailer my tractor and loads of stone/mulch. Sometimes I have attachments or other things that shift the load forward or backward.
Having that 2 or so feet of extra room (16 feet to 18 feet) makes a MASSIVE difference in the "towability" of the trailer by getting the correct (10% to 15%) of the load weight on the tongue by being able to place your load forward or backward.
If you get a trailer that is JUUUUST long enough for your car, you won't have any variability/flexibility in how or where you load it. Fine if you're saving money, but you'll be kicking yourself when it actually comes to TOWING the car/trailer. I promise. Speaking from experience. That's how I ended up with a 20 foot long trailer.
Not that you need 20 feet. I think 18 feet is a great length. 7k# capacity is pleanty. Bear in mind that you need to take the weight of the trailer out of the capacity and a closed-deck steel trailer (wood or metal) weighs a solid 2k#. And plan on making some modifications. I added 12 D-rings to mine, but I'm probably going to put a set of E-Tracks in mine keyed to the width of my car so I can strap the tires down instead of using chains.
Last edited by keithinspace; Nov 15, 2012 at 10:43 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,367
Likes: 59
From: FL
Open trailers seem to have an advantage for things liek weekend autocrosses, takign your car to the shop, dashing off to nearby shows, etc. While they are still big, they are smaller and "feel" like you aren't dealing with a big monster to do small trips.
A plus is you get to stare back at your baby going down the road and you get all the thumbs up from those passing you.
A minus is that it gets subjected to the weather, so sun and rain both get on it.
The enclosed trailers double as a spare garage, but often can't be parked in your back yard. That means a separate storage yard fee somewhere and not always the most convenient.
There is a newer page somewhere, but this old link brings up an old page that addressed a lot of what you need to know.
http://www.vettenet.org/trailer.html
Found it, newer link.
http://www.oocities.org/motorcity/do.../trailer3.html
A plus is you get to stare back at your baby going down the road and you get all the thumbs up from those passing you.
A minus is that it gets subjected to the weather, so sun and rain both get on it.
The enclosed trailers double as a spare garage, but often can't be parked in your back yard. That means a separate storage yard fee somewhere and not always the most convenient.
There is a newer page somewhere, but this old link brings up an old page that addressed a lot of what you need to know.
http://www.vettenet.org/trailer.html
Found it, newer link.
http://www.oocities.org/motorcity/do.../trailer3.html
Last edited by Mark_Milner; Nov 15, 2012 at 04:06 PM. Reason: Found link to newer page
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
It's well worth it to get a tilt trailer, not pinching fingers with ramps. Makes life a lot easier.
Also, full deck diamond plate, brakes on both axles (by law in most states), stake pockets to convert to sided utility trailer, both fenders removable for easy access, and 15 or 16 inch tires for the best choice and bang for the buck
Makes life a lot easier.Also, full deck diamond plate, brakes on both axles (by law in most states), stake pockets to convert to sided utility trailer, both fenders removable for easy access, and 15 or 16 inch tires for the best choice and bang for the buck
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,865
Likes: 1
From: I may be getting old but I refuse to grow up
It's well worth it to get a tilt trailer, not pinching fingers with ramps. Makes life a lot easier.
Also, full deck diamond plate, brakes on both axles (by law in most states), stake pockets to convert to sided utility trailer, both fenders removable for easy access, and 15 or 16 inch tires for the best choice and bang for the buck
Makes life a lot easier.Also, full deck diamond plate, brakes on both axles (by law in most states), stake pockets to convert to sided utility trailer, both fenders removable for easy access, and 15 or 16 inch tires for the best choice and bang for the buck
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 840
Likes: 4
From: Syracuse IN
As for Car Haulers, most higher end trailers have disc brakes on all axles. Al
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Most states require all wheels or all axles.
The laws apply to where you are towing, not just where it's registered.
Here's a link to most requirements.
http://www.boatwheels.biz/brakelaws.pdf
To be safe everywhere, brakes on all wheels, safety chains, breakaway brakes, all clearance lights.
The DOT in each state can get very picky about the ratings of the hitch, ball, tires and axles. These guys like to write people a long list of tickets.
Common mistake is to have a Class5 hitch and a class4 ball. Needs a shank of 1-1/4" instead of 1".