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No clue on a pump, but I do agree electric would be the way to go- no parasitic load when it's not running.
Just curious, how much vacuum do you have? I have 12-13" at idle and the lights are a little slow, but no problems other than that.
No clue on a pump, but I do agree electric would be the way to go- no parasitic load when it's not running.
Just curious, how much vacuum do you have? I have 12-13" at idle and the lights are a little slow, but no problems other than that.
I don't know what the actual reading is. I have had the shop trying to get the lights going and work out all the bubba from the vacuum line system.
You really shouldn't need an auxillary vacuum pump. But, the system does need to be well sealed and the components in it need to be in good shape. The most common 'faults' with the vacuum systems are a bad check valve, leaky headlight relays, and...if you have the vacuum wiper door...bad solenoid switch (on backside of tach) and/or defective wiper safety park switch (under the right-side wiper).
If I was in stop and go traffic, I'd have one stop with vacuum assist, the next without.... it was a bit annoying. Also, on tight courses, I'd rarely actually have power brakes after the first attempt to stop.... and forget about it if it was a "ride your brakes through the course" course, it would be manual level of effort all the way.... kills elapse times.
I have a pretty radical (for the street) cam.... 280/280, 108 LSA .550 lifts (SBC)
I would have to agree that an auxiliary pump shouldn't be needed of the system is sealed well. The accumulator tank will store vacuum until you need it. Even with a big cam, you will pull some decent vacuum during normal driving and that will be stored in the accumulator, unless it all leaks out.
I have a big cam in my 454 and it takes a few minutes after start up to build enough vacuum to pop open the lights.
Yes, i would more think you have a leak instead of blaming your cam.
Your mechanic is a little questionable also recommending an unorthodox solution by suggesting installing a big ugly loud vacumm pump, instead of doing diligent troubleshooting and finding a cracked hose.
put a gauge on your canister tank and do a leakdown test after shutting off your engine.. after plugging the appropriate lines.
what else is there besides electric pumps? some hideous belt driven thing?
Last I checked, they were hazardous waste disposal devices. They provide heat, music, food for the trees, and work - all while ridding the planet of a toxic waste.
Really, we do the planet a favor by running our cars
Yes, i would more think you have a leak instead of blaming your cam.
Your mechanic is a little questionable also recommending an unorthodox solution by suggesting installing a big ugly loud vacumm pump, instead of doing diligent troubleshooting and finding a cracked hose.
put a gauge on your canister tank and do a leakdown test after shutting off your engine.. after plugging the appropriate lines.
what else is there besides electric pumps? some hideous belt driven thing?
I sure wish I had more time before your car was picked up for it's journey to it's new home, I could have checked out your vacuum system for you.
IMHO, are we sure the messed up hose routing has been corrected, the relay has been tested for proper function, and you're getting good control vacuum from the switches? I would like to see the results of these issues before I would even think about a separate pump. A decent hand vacuum pump tester is much less than more drastic measures.
If you would like, I can talk you through these, and get you a routing diagram if you don't already have one. Let me know........