Headlight Actuator
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 262
Likes: 1
From: New South Wales
Headlight Actuator
Hi All,
I have removed the headlight assemblies from my C3 for a rebuild. Broke a couple of sticky screws and bolts off in the process which I will now have to drill out to remove (Crap). Also looks like one of the headlight housing supports is cracked/broken (are they alloy?) which will need repairing.
Should I put a rebuild kit in the headlight actuators while I am going? Is there any way to test them (now that they are off the car) to know if I am just throwing good money away? Anything I need to know if I do decide to rebuild them? They look pretty simple.....
Thanks, Colin
I have removed the headlight assemblies from my C3 for a rebuild. Broke a couple of sticky screws and bolts off in the process which I will now have to drill out to remove (Crap). Also looks like one of the headlight housing supports is cracked/broken (are they alloy?) which will need repairing.
Should I put a rebuild kit in the headlight actuators while I am going? Is there any way to test them (now that they are off the car) to know if I am just throwing good money away? Anything I need to know if I do decide to rebuild them? They look pretty simple.....
Thanks, Colin
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 504
From: myrtle beach sc
Army
The headlight supports are made of aluminum. They can be welded, but the aluminum is very dirty to weld. Had it done at work twenty years ago. The welder was not very happy about it. Lou.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I would test the actuator before ordering anything! If you use a vacuum pump on the rear nipple (red) in the picture and the actuator will not hold vacuum then the diaphragm is defective and a seal kit won't help you.
So test the rear and see if it is holding vacuum. If it does then test from the front. If it leaks down on the front then you know it needs a seal kit.
The lamp supports deteriorate due to galvanic corrosion. The support is bolted to a steel header bar with steel bolts and thus the ultimate failure via what is called dissimilar metal properties. They are a pain to repair. . . . New is available but the price would depend on the year.
So test the rear and see if it is holding vacuum. If it does then test from the front. If it leaks down on the front then you know it needs a seal kit.
The lamp supports deteriorate due to galvanic corrosion. The support is bolted to a steel header bar with steel bolts and thus the ultimate failure via what is called dissimilar metal properties. They are a pain to repair. . . . New is available but the price would depend on the year.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,131
Likes: 4
From: May help you? You can sure as hell try!
I think you will find it much cheaper to have your bracket welded. TIG welding has come a long way and welding aluminum is no longer the task it was years ago. I bought a set of headlights and brackets at a swap meet years ago and the mounting brackets were both broken. I got them very cheap because of that. I had a welding shop down the street fix them for about $30 each. I then rebuilt the assemblies and resold them for a tidy profit.
A good welder may also be able to help you remove those broken bolts. Before you do more damage by drilling out the screws than you started with, see if the welder would be willing to TIG weld a piece of stock to the broken piece of bolt and back it out that way.
I broke a couple of the tiny screws off that attach the headlight bezel to the cover. I thought I was in deep doo-doo because they're so small and I'd never be able to drill them out. The '68 covers are unique and hard to find. My welder had them out in 10 minutes and the threads in the cover were left undamaged. Try that with a drill and an EZ out!!
A good welder may also be able to help you remove those broken bolts. Before you do more damage by drilling out the screws than you started with, see if the welder would be willing to TIG weld a piece of stock to the broken piece of bolt and back it out that way.
I broke a couple of the tiny screws off that attach the headlight bezel to the cover. I thought I was in deep doo-doo because they're so small and I'd never be able to drill them out. The '68 covers are unique and hard to find. My welder had them out in 10 minutes and the threads in the cover were left undamaged. Try that with a drill and an EZ out!!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 262
Likes: 1
From: New South Wales
Thanks for the help. I will take the headlight bracket and have it repaired.
Cheers, Colin
Cheers, Colin
I think you will find it much cheaper to have your bracket welded. TIG welding has come a long way and welding aluminum is no longer the task it was years ago. I bought a set of headlights and brackets at a swap meet years ago and the mounting brackets were both broken. I got them very cheap because of that. I had a welding shop down the street fix them for about $30 each. I then rebuilt the assemblies and resold them for a tidy profit.
A good welder may also be able to help you remove those broken bolts. Before you do more damage by drilling out the screws than you started with, see if the welder would be willing to TIG weld a piece of stock to the broken piece of bolt and back it out that way.
I broke a couple of the tiny screws off that attach the headlight bezel to the cover. I thought I was in deep doo-doo because they're so small and I'd never be able to drill them out. The '68 covers are unique and hard to find. My welder had them out in 10 minutes and the threads in the cover were left undamaged. Try that with a drill and an EZ out!!
A good welder may also be able to help you remove those broken bolts. Before you do more damage by drilling out the screws than you started with, see if the welder would be willing to TIG weld a piece of stock to the broken piece of bolt and back it out that way.
I broke a couple of the tiny screws off that attach the headlight bezel to the cover. I thought I was in deep doo-doo because they're so small and I'd never be able to drill them out. The '68 covers are unique and hard to find. My welder had them out in 10 minutes and the threads in the cover were left undamaged. Try that with a drill and an EZ out!!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 262
Likes: 1
From: New South Wales
Thanks for the diagrams and advice. You have been a great help!
I would test the actuator before ordering anything! If you use a vacuum pump on the rear nipple (red) in the picture and the actuator will not hold vacuum then the diaphragm is defective and a seal kit won't help you.
So test the rear and see if it is holding vacuum. If it does then test from the front. If it leaks down on the front then you know it needs a seal kit.
The lamp supports deteriorate due to galvanic corrosion. The support is bolted to a steel header bar with steel bolts and thus the ultimate failure via what is called dissimilar metal properties. They are a pain to repair. . . . New is available but the price would depend on the year.
So test the rear and see if it is holding vacuum. If it does then test from the front. If it leaks down on the front then you know it needs a seal kit.
The lamp supports deteriorate due to galvanic corrosion. The support is bolted to a steel header bar with steel bolts and thus the ultimate failure via what is called dissimilar metal properties. They are a pain to repair. . . . New is available but the price would depend on the year.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I think you will find it much cheaper to have your bracket welded. TIG welding has come a long way and welding aluminum is no longer the task it was years ago. I bought a set of headlights and brackets at a swap meet years ago and the mounting brackets were both broken. I got them very cheap because of that. I had a welding shop down the street fix them for about $30 each. I then rebuilt the assemblies and resold them for a tidy profit.
A good welder may also be able to help you remove those broken bolts. Before you do more damage by drilling out the screws than you started with, see if the welder would be willing to TIG weld a piece of stock to the broken piece of bolt and back it out that way.
I broke a couple of the tiny screws off that attach the headlight bezel to the cover. I thought I was in deep doo-doo because they're so small and I'd never be able to drill them out. The '68 covers are unique and hard to find. My welder had them out in 10 minutes and the threads in the cover were left undamaged. Try that with a drill and an EZ out!!
A good welder may also be able to help you remove those broken bolts. Before you do more damage by drilling out the screws than you started with, see if the welder would be willing to TIG weld a piece of stock to the broken piece of bolt and back it out that way.
I broke a couple of the tiny screws off that attach the headlight bezel to the cover. I thought I was in deep doo-doo because they're so small and I'd never be able to drill them out. The '68 covers are unique and hard to find. My welder had them out in 10 minutes and the threads in the cover were left undamaged. Try that with a drill and an EZ out!!
I can't agree more with you about removing broken bolts with a welder.
We use this trick weekly... Welding a nut head on a broke bolt never fails unless you have a very tiny bolt or screw.Willcox
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Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,131
Likes: 4
From: May help you? You can sure as hell try!
Many of the nylon parts that involve sliding contact are available through the Corvette vendors (the pivot bearings and the kidney shaped slides) as well as the springs etc. You will find the rebuild pretty easy and they will work like new afterwards.
I think you know which vendor to inquire with first. Right, Mr. Wilcox?
!!
I think you know which vendor to inquire with first. Right, Mr. Wilcox?
!!