Original 1969 keys also came with a 4-digit code
12-24-2012, 11:02 AM
#1
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Original 1969 keys also came with a 4-digit code
Hi Guys
I must say that I am new to this site and I love it.
I have been a spectator for a while but glad to be part of the family now so to speak.
being new here and this question may be posted already somewhere but I need to ask it for I recently bought a 69 vette and in the process of learning more and more about these gorgeous beauty`s I found out that mine had the original locks changed in 78 due to being worn down.
The only thing that is original still is the glove box lock which I know is an H key which I do not have
.
So I am in the process of re placing my current A & D set with the proper E and H set. I do not want to end up with a set of E & H`s from other years so I am on the hunt for a se with the 3 digit and 1 letter code stamped on the key tags knock outs attached to the rings.
My question is, what would be the correct number sequence for the 1969 E & H keys?
The only thing I know is that 03J1 for example is an E key but for A 1973 vette and the H key for a 73 would be 53L9.
SO what would the correct numbering be for both keys on a 69 vette?
Any help would be most appreciated.
Squeeg
I must say that I am new to this site and I love it.
I have been a spectator for a while but glad to be part of the family now so to speak.
being new here and this question may be posted already somewhere but I need to ask it for I recently bought a 69 vette and in the process of learning more and more about these gorgeous beauty`s I found out that mine had the original locks changed in 78 due to being worn down.
The only thing that is original still is the glove box lock which I know is an H key which I do not have
.So I am in the process of re placing my current A & D set with the proper E and H set. I do not want to end up with a set of E & H`s from other years so I am on the hunt for a se with the 3 digit and 1 letter code stamped on the key tags knock outs attached to the rings.
My question is, what would be the correct number sequence for the 1969 E & H keys?
The only thing I know is that 03J1 for example is an E key but for A 1973 vette and the H key for a 73 would be 53L9.
SO what would the correct numbering be for both keys on a 69 vette?
Any help would be most appreciated.
Squeeg
12-24-2012, 11:17 AM
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Do you have any of the original factory documentation for your 69? Original key codes were often included on the car shipper and the dealer's copy of the invoice. They are not on tank stickers.
E and H blanks are correct for 69, but also correct for other model years.
E and H blanks are correct for 69, but also correct for other model years.
Last edited by Easy Mike; 12-24-2012 at 11:19 AM.
12-24-2012, 11:25 AM
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No I do not have that.
I got the car from a friend of the second owner.
He owned it for approx 25 years. It is a true L46.
The guy died and his wife gave it to her late husbands best friend who
in turn wanted nothing to do with old problematic vehicles as I do recall.
So in passing through Ohio I went to see the car and brought it back to Canada and it is now with me. The price was right because there was no protecto plate and the build sheet that should of been under the dash is long gone. This car I'd say is 90 percent original and is a numbers matching car but its the paper work and little things like door locks have been changed since she was a daily driver most of her life and now has 86, 000 miles.
I know I could grab the spare glove box and match keys for it but I'd rather keep that aside and get proper keys and re tool the tumblers.
My goal is just to make it period correct as much as possible.
Do you know what the code numbers are?
cheers
I got the car from a friend of the second owner.
He owned it for approx 25 years. It is a true L46.
The guy died and his wife gave it to her late husbands best friend who
in turn wanted nothing to do with old problematic vehicles as I do recall.
So in passing through Ohio I went to see the car and brought it back to Canada and it is now with me. The price was right because there was no protecto plate and the build sheet that should of been under the dash is long gone. This car I'd say is 90 percent original and is a numbers matching car but its the paper work and little things like door locks have been changed since she was a daily driver most of her life and now has 86, 000 miles.
I know I could grab the spare glove box and match keys for it but I'd rather keep that aside and get proper keys and re tool the tumblers.
My goal is just to make it period correct as much as possible.
Do you know what the code numbers are?
cheers
12-24-2012, 11:38 AM
#4
Race Director
Contact Pat at Pat's Locks in Fallston, MD.
Pat specializes in Corvette, and old Chevrolet keys and locks. He can fix you with keys and locks in the right configuration for your 69, and with properly stamped key knock outs.
His number is 410-879-9647.
Pat specializes in Corvette, and old Chevrolet keys and locks. He can fix you with keys and locks in the right configuration for your 69, and with properly stamped key knock outs.
His number is 410-879-9647.
12-24-2012, 11:51 AM
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Thanks a bunch...
It still would be very nice though especially for educational purposes
to know what the 4 digits are on the 69 key tags for both E & H keys.
The only thing I can seem to find is this....
http://garybeaupre.home.comcast.net/...9-82_Keys.html
If anybody knows I would love to know just so I can better educate myself with this jem...
This is my babe here...
<a href="http://s49.beta.photobucket.com/user/stratosqueeg/media/2_zps303c55e6.jpeg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f257/stratosqueeg/2_zps303c55e6.jpeg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>
It still would be very nice though especially for educational purposes
to know what the 4 digits are on the 69 key tags for both E & H keys.
The only thing I can seem to find is this....
http://garybeaupre.home.comcast.net/...9-82_Keys.html
If anybody knows I would love to know just so I can better educate myself with this jem...
This is my babe here...
<a href="http://s49.beta.photobucket.com/user/stratosqueeg/media/2_zps303c55e6.jpeg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f257/stratosqueeg/2_zps303c55e6.jpeg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"/></a>
12-24-2012, 12:21 PM
#6
[QUOTE=stratosqueeg;1582646787]No I do not have that.
I got the car from a friend of the second owner.
He owned it for approx 25 years. It is a true L46.
The guy died and his wife gave it to her late husbands best friend who
in turn wanted nothing to do with old problematic vehicles as I do recall.
So in passing through Ohio I went to see the car and brought it back to Canada and it is now with me. The price was right because there was no protecto plate and the build sheet that should of been under the dash is long gone. This car I'd say is 90 percent original and is a numbers matching car but its the paper work and little things like door locks have been changed since she was a daily driver most of her life and now has 86, 000 miles.
I know I could grab the spare glove box and match keys for it but I'd rather keep that aside and get proper keys and re tool the tumblers.
My goal is just to make it period correct as much as possible.
Do you know what the code numbers are?
cheers[/QUOTE
Historically, GM used five or six different sets of key blanks. They used one set of key blanks for one model year, and then changed to a different set for the next model year. So the key blanks on a '71 might be the same as a '76, and the key blank set on a '72 would be the same as a '77, and so on. My '74 uses a J (ignition) and K(storage compartment and doors) pattern key set.
The four digit alphanumeric key code specified both the key blank and the cutout pattern on the key. Every car built then, theoretically, could use a different key. So the key code for your car was specific to your car only. The only way to determine the origional key cut pattern for your car's ignition would require the origional documentation on the car, such as the dealer invoice. You could find out the door key cut pattern, because a locksmith could match your storage compartment key to it.
IMHO, it's only worth the trouble of changing everything if you absolutely need a 100 point NCRS car.
But mistakes happen. Ford used the same key blank pattern for years. My friend's dad once had a '70 Ford sedan, and his sister had a '73 Mustang, and the same key worked on both cars!
I got the car from a friend of the second owner.
He owned it for approx 25 years. It is a true L46.
The guy died and his wife gave it to her late husbands best friend who
in turn wanted nothing to do with old problematic vehicles as I do recall.
So in passing through Ohio I went to see the car and brought it back to Canada and it is now with me. The price was right because there was no protecto plate and the build sheet that should of been under the dash is long gone. This car I'd say is 90 percent original and is a numbers matching car but its the paper work and little things like door locks have been changed since she was a daily driver most of her life and now has 86, 000 miles.
I know I could grab the spare glove box and match keys for it but I'd rather keep that aside and get proper keys and re tool the tumblers.
My goal is just to make it period correct as much as possible.
Do you know what the code numbers are?
cheers[/QUOTE
Historically, GM used five or six different sets of key blanks. They used one set of key blanks for one model year, and then changed to a different set for the next model year. So the key blanks on a '71 might be the same as a '76, and the key blank set on a '72 would be the same as a '77, and so on. My '74 uses a J (ignition) and K(storage compartment and doors) pattern key set.
The four digit alphanumeric key code specified both the key blank and the cutout pattern on the key. Every car built then, theoretically, could use a different key. So the key code for your car was specific to your car only. The only way to determine the origional key cut pattern for your car's ignition would require the origional documentation on the car, such as the dealer invoice. You could find out the door key cut pattern, because a locksmith could match your storage compartment key to it.
IMHO, it's only worth the trouble of changing everything if you absolutely need a 100 point NCRS car.
But mistakes happen. Ford used the same key blank pattern for years. My friend's dad once had a '70 Ford sedan, and his sister had a '73 Mustang, and the same key worked on both cars!
12-24-2012, 01:28 PM
#7
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2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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gcusmano74 is spot on.
Great looking car by the way!
I worked for the General back in 1980-84.
I was assigned to the parts department at an Oldsmobile
dealership.
I cut keys by hand often.
By 1980 we were up to a 5 digit key code.
Each consecutive year they changed the key blanks.
So if A & B were used in 1970, come 1971 they were C & D.
You get the point.
Theoretically, the odds of probability are that they are going to eventually duplicate the key code sequence but using different blanks should postpone duplication for a couple years.
I often thought if you walked through a huge shopping mall parking lot you would eventually find another GM car your key fit.
My '68 has the last year of the lollipop and stop sign shaped keys.
The blanks(orig. to car) are C & D.
In 1969 when they went with the column mounted anti-theft ignition switch they changed the ignition key to the current square head which was still in use when I left in 1984.
The engineers thought that it would be easier to grasp between the ears on the ignition switch housing.
We used to go to a book and take the key code and it told us which blank to use for that year. Shhh!!, that was top secret in the day.
Then we took a hand held punch, picture a leather punch tool, and inserted the key blank till it hit the indexing stop.
Then we would move 5 levered wheels individually, again picture an odometer till we got the right code showing face up.
Now it was ready to cut.
Then you would squeeze this device 5 times.
After each cut there was a **** to turn to index the cutter to the next number left to right while looking down at it.
With each squeeze you made an additional cut.
When you were done you did the trunk/door key.
Then charged them a buck a piece.
Typically the lower of the two letters was the ignition I think?
The next letter was the door,glovebox, and trunk if so equiped.
Your glove box key should fit your spare tire carrier lock if also orig.
Mine does
Ok, now I've divulged all I know about GM
Hope my memory was accurate enough to be of help?
Merry Christmas,
Marshal
Great looking car by the way!
I worked for the General back in 1980-84.
I was assigned to the parts department at an Oldsmobile
dealership.
I cut keys by hand often.
By 1980 we were up to a 5 digit key code.
Each consecutive year they changed the key blanks.
So if A & B were used in 1970, come 1971 they were C & D.
You get the point.
Theoretically, the odds of probability are that they are going to eventually duplicate the key code sequence but using different blanks should postpone duplication for a couple years.
I often thought if you walked through a huge shopping mall parking lot you would eventually find another GM car your key fit.
My '68 has the last year of the lollipop and stop sign shaped keys.
The blanks(orig. to car) are C & D.
In 1969 when they went with the column mounted anti-theft ignition switch they changed the ignition key to the current square head which was still in use when I left in 1984.
The engineers thought that it would be easier to grasp between the ears on the ignition switch housing.
We used to go to a book and take the key code and it told us which blank to use for that year. Shhh!!, that was top secret in the day.
Then we took a hand held punch, picture a leather punch tool, and inserted the key blank till it hit the indexing stop.
Then we would move 5 levered wheels individually, again picture an odometer till we got the right code showing face up.
Now it was ready to cut.
Then you would squeeze this device 5 times.
After each cut there was a **** to turn to index the cutter to the next number left to right while looking down at it.
With each squeeze you made an additional cut.
When you were done you did the trunk/door key.
Then charged them a buck a piece.
Typically the lower of the two letters was the ignition I think?
The next letter was the door,glovebox, and trunk if so equiped.
Your glove box key should fit your spare tire carrier lock if also orig.
Mine does
Ok, now I've divulged all I know about GM
Hope my memory was accurate enough to be of help?
Merry Christmas,
Marshal
12-24-2012, 01:40 PM
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I appreciate all the advice and info.
I guess what I am trying to get at it what were the range of numbers on a 69 vette?
Anotherwards lets say 69 was...
00B0 - 99B9 - Primary E key and
00C0 - 99C9 - secondary glove box/spare tire key.
I know for 69 the door locks were identical to the ignition lock so it would be great if somebody on here had a 69 vette built in September, October
that could post or show what their key knockout tags had for the 4 digits...
Just to get an idea....
I guess what I am trying to get at it what were the range of numbers on a 69 vette?
Anotherwards lets say 69 was...
00B0 - 99B9 - Primary E key and
00C0 - 99C9 - secondary glove box/spare tire key.
I know for 69 the door locks were identical to the ignition lock so it would be great if somebody on here had a 69 vette built in September, October
that could post or show what their key knockout tags had for the 4 digits...
Just to get an idea....
12-24-2012, 02:26 PM
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Hi sq,
I can recommend Pat Kraus in Fallston too!
He does nice work and at a more reasonable price than some of the other key and knock-out fellows. I really think he'll be able to help you out.
NICE LOOKING CAR!!!!
Regards,
Alan
I can recommend Pat Kraus in Fallston too!
He does nice work and at a more reasonable price than some of the other key and knock-out fellows. I really think he'll be able to help you out.
NICE LOOKING CAR!!!!
Regards,
Alan
12-26-2012, 01:35 PM
#10
Drifting
What paperwork you do have, be sure to look at all of it for the key codes jotted down somewhere from either the PO or dealer. Thats how I found my key codes was a set of numbers scribbled on a page in my owners manual.
Good luck!
Good luck!