Stripping the Body on my 1977
12-27-2012, 01:36 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Stripping the Body on my 1977
I have a few questions that I wanted to throw out there and I did not want to put it in my restoration thread so as to not take over that thread with the question...
We are at the point where we are about to start on the bodywork. Strip the paint off the body, replace body panels... etc... and we had a couple of questions for those with the experience and/or expertise.
We currently have the body completely off the frame of the car. Nothing is there. We took the rear clip off the back as well. So with that in mind here are the questions.
We are toying around with different options to remove the paint on the car. First question is.... what's the best out there?
Media Blasting?
Chemical removal and/or the razor blade deal?
Any new chemicals out there? Something good that may have come out over the past few years? We've seen many older posts about stripping and wanted to hear about anything new out there.
I ask b/c we have heard that media blasting can remove the sharp lines on the body work. We also heard some chemical removal can go too far and create issues when we go to repaint.
Also, should we remount the body before removal of the paint?
We ask that b/c I have read that removal of the paint can create issues when you work around the body. Supposedly oils and other contaminants can mess up the body and cause paint problems later.
In short.... let me know what the opinions are out there. Any help would be appreciated!
We are at the point where we are about to start on the bodywork. Strip the paint off the body, replace body panels... etc... and we had a couple of questions for those with the experience and/or expertise.
We currently have the body completely off the frame of the car. Nothing is there. We took the rear clip off the back as well. So with that in mind here are the questions.
We are toying around with different options to remove the paint on the car. First question is.... what's the best out there?
Media Blasting?
Chemical removal and/or the razor blade deal?
Any new chemicals out there? Something good that may have come out over the past few years? We've seen many older posts about stripping and wanted to hear about anything new out there.
I ask b/c we have heard that media blasting can remove the sharp lines on the body work. We also heard some chemical removal can go too far and create issues when we go to repaint.
Also, should we remount the body before removal of the paint?
We ask that b/c I have read that removal of the paint can create issues when you work around the body. Supposedly oils and other contaminants can mess up the body and cause paint problems later.
In short.... let me know what the opinions are out there. Any help would be appreciated!
12-27-2012, 09:41 AM
#2
Race Director
I have always used razor blades, just keep using sharp blades, change them often. Also finish up with any hard spots or areas with Capt. Lee Spray spa, be sure to follow the instructions.
12-27-2012, 09:58 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
I am currently stripping my 77. The topcoat I removed with razorblades and the rest of the car I am going to use what I have on several cars of mine in the past. Captain Lee's auto spray strip also. Its a chemical and I never had any problems with it before. Just wash the area with water when you finish a section at a time. I take it all the way down to the bare glass.
12-27-2012, 09:02 PM
#4
Former Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
We have always used the cheapest air craft stripper we can find and go at it. I've never found any reason to purchase a specific brand stripper and I've never had any issues.
The best paint stripping is done outside in weather somewhere in the mid to upper 70's. We always spread the stripper on the car, then apply a black plastic over top. If you let this sit for a while it will soften almost any paint you'll find on a car. If not.. repeat.. but let the stripper work for you.. instead of you working the stripper. I do not let employee's use razors! Why? Because we have to fix any cuts or goofs made. We use steel putty knives only with good clean edges. When we get to a problem area in most cases we will sand this off vs. trying to gouge it out.
When we get to the old red oxide primer we use number 3 grade steel wool with paint thinner and scrub.. this will remove the old primer. Once finished we do a complete wash down of the car multiple times. We also take not of any "raw" areas and pay extra attention to keep the stripper out.
One mistake I always see in the past is someone that gets impatient... Put the stripper on the paint and leave it alone. Do not move it around or swirl it.
Boy I hate paint threads so now my disclaimer.. This is how we do it! We don't sand blast, soda blast (funny story on that one) or anything else! It's just elbow grease and stripper. What works for me may not agree with others!
Oh.. one last thing.. pray you don't have feather fill under that paint.. LOL.. It can be a real PITA...
IMHO,
Willcox
The best paint stripping is done outside in weather somewhere in the mid to upper 70's. We always spread the stripper on the car, then apply a black plastic over top. If you let this sit for a while it will soften almost any paint you'll find on a car. If not.. repeat.. but let the stripper work for you.. instead of you working the stripper. I do not let employee's use razors! Why? Because we have to fix any cuts or goofs made. We use steel putty knives only with good clean edges. When we get to a problem area in most cases we will sand this off vs. trying to gouge it out.
When we get to the old red oxide primer we use number 3 grade steel wool with paint thinner and scrub.. this will remove the old primer. Once finished we do a complete wash down of the car multiple times. We also take not of any "raw" areas and pay extra attention to keep the stripper out.
One mistake I always see in the past is someone that gets impatient... Put the stripper on the paint and leave it alone. Do not move it around or swirl it.
Boy I hate paint threads so now my disclaimer.. This is how we do it! We don't sand blast, soda blast (funny story on that one) or anything else! It's just elbow grease and stripper. What works for me may not agree with others!
Oh.. one last thing.. pray you don't have feather fill under that paint.. LOL.. It can be a real PITA...
IMHO,
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 12-27-2012 at 09:06 PM.
12-27-2012, 09:32 PM
#5
Drifting
We have always used the cheapest air craft stripper we can find and go at it. I've never found any reason to purchase a specific brand stripper and I've never had any issues.
The best paint stripping is done outside in weather somewhere in the mid to upper 70's. We always spread the stripper on the car, then apply a black plastic over top. If you let this sit for a while it will soften almost any paint you'll find on a car. If not.. repeat.. but let the stripper work for you.. instead of you working the stripper. I do not let employee's use razors! Why? Because we have to fix any cuts or goofs made. We use steel putty knives only with good clean edges. When we get to a problem area in most cases we will sand this off vs. trying to gouge it out.
When we get to the old red oxide primer we use number 3 grade steel wool with paint thinner and scrub.. this will remove the old primer. Once finished we do a complete wash down of the car multiple times. We also take not of any "raw" areas and pay extra attention to keep the stripper out.
One mistake I always see in the past is someone that gets impatient... Put the stripper on the paint and leave it alone. Do not move it around or swirl it.
Boy I hate paint threads so now my disclaimer.. This is how we do it! We don't sand blast, soda blast (funny story on that one) or anything else! It's just elbow grease and stripper. What works for me may not agree with others!
Oh.. one last thing.. pray you don't have feather fill under that paint.. LOL.. It can be a real PITA...
IMHO,
Willcox
The best paint stripping is done outside in weather somewhere in the mid to upper 70's. We always spread the stripper on the car, then apply a black plastic over top. If you let this sit for a while it will soften almost any paint you'll find on a car. If not.. repeat.. but let the stripper work for you.. instead of you working the stripper. I do not let employee's use razors! Why? Because we have to fix any cuts or goofs made. We use steel putty knives only with good clean edges. When we get to a problem area in most cases we will sand this off vs. trying to gouge it out.
When we get to the old red oxide primer we use number 3 grade steel wool with paint thinner and scrub.. this will remove the old primer. Once finished we do a complete wash down of the car multiple times. We also take not of any "raw" areas and pay extra attention to keep the stripper out.
One mistake I always see in the past is someone that gets impatient... Put the stripper on the paint and leave it alone. Do not move it around or swirl it.
Boy I hate paint threads so now my disclaimer.. This is how we do it! We don't sand blast, soda blast (funny story on that one) or anything else! It's just elbow grease and stripper. What works for me may not agree with others!
Oh.. one last thing.. pray you don't have feather fill under that paint.. LOL.. It can be a real PITA...
IMHO,
Willcox
Rogman
12-27-2012, 09:48 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
Guys I am all for saving $$$, but in the small print on the side of that aircraft stripper container it says not for use on fiberglass. Must be a reason. Aircraft also makes a stripper just for fiberglass. Just saying.
12-27-2012, 10:02 PM
#7
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Every car on this link was done this way.. (except for the silver 60).. http://willcoxcorvette.com/advanced_...rt=3a&&page=-1
When I was younger.. (way younger) three of us could strip a car in 1 day on a good sunny day... with the proper refreshments!
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 12-27-2012 at 10:07 PM.
12-27-2012, 11:14 PM
#8
Drifting
12-27-2012, 11:38 PM
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
I may go with the razor option. Now that I have put some more though into it, the fenders and quarters are being replaced so no sense in stripping those.
On the other questions... Should I be concerned about te bare glass after it is stripped? Am I good just cleaning it well prior to primer?
On the other questions... Should I be concerned about te bare glass after it is stripped? Am I good just cleaning it well prior to primer?
Last edited by luisv; 12-28-2012 at 10:14 AM.
12-28-2012, 08:39 AM
#10
Race Director
You have to be very careful not to get any grease or oil on the bare glass before primer. If it needs to sit where stuff is going on, get a cheap car cover.
Before primer give it a good scrub with scotchbrite and water with a a little dawn dish soap. Then hose it off real good. Let it dry completely, preferably in the sun for 24 hours. Then it's ready for primer.
Before primer give it a good scrub with scotchbrite and water with a a little dawn dish soap. Then hose it off real good. Let it dry completely, preferably in the sun for 24 hours. Then it's ready for primer.
12-28-2012, 11:00 PM
#12
Former Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Luisy.. I have to say.. I'd stay off the razor.. good strong putty knife works perfectly and will not cause you any issues.
Razor's will work but just keep in mind.. every cut or dig will need special attention before painting.
And you get extra credit if you spill beer..... Oh.. another funny note.
When you strip the side quarters or fenders or doors..... don't lean over to reach something! It will create a burning sensation in a certain region you'd never dream could burn to such magnitude. And no.. it wasn't me.. but one of my employee's. LOL.. Still a good joke in my shop.
Razor's will work but just keep in mind.. every cut or dig will need special attention before painting.
And you get extra credit if you spill beer..... Oh.. another funny note.
When you strip the side quarters or fenders or doors..... don't lean over to reach something! It will create a burning sensation in a certain region you'd never dream could burn to such magnitude. And no.. it wasn't me.. but one of my employee's. LOL.. Still a good joke in my shop.
12-29-2012, 09:14 AM
#13
Drifting
back in the old days when I ran a Shop..we stripped hundreds of Corvettes .. Ditzler Paints [PPG subsidiary] made a fibreglass specific stripper called DX-525 Remover ... it was great, pour it on thick, used plastic bondo spreaders to remove the paint,stripped it clean to the factory baked primer.. no gouging... finish up with fast laquer thinner and steel wool.. two of us could strip an entire car before lunch.....oh, be sure you let that car sit for couple days before putting any primer on it.. and wash it thoroughly with thinner, and then water .....one last thing, use urethane specific stripper on your bumpers or they will distort ...good luck.
Last edited by fishslayer143; 12-29-2012 at 09:23 AM.