1969 Engine Stamp Pad Question
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1969 Engine Stamp Pad Question
G'day and Happy New Year all from down under!
I am looking into this vette (http://www.buyavette.net/1969%20Corv...%204139CJI.php) from your great country, but have a question about the engine stamp pad.
The question is - does it look right? All previous stamp pads I have seen the two numbers are not so close together. On this pad the two numbers almost touch...any thoughts re re-stamp?
Cheers all,
John.
I am looking into this vette (http://www.buyavette.net/1969%20Corv...%204139CJI.php) from your great country, but have a question about the engine stamp pad.
The question is - does it look right? All previous stamp pads I have seen the two numbers are not so close together. On this pad the two numbers almost touch...any thoughts re re-stamp?
Cheers all,
John.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2009
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2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
John
I see nothing in the engine stamp pad that would cause me concern. It appears aged, painted over at one time and then cleaned. There appears to be broach marks and the size and shape of the characters look exactly like my '69 L36. The VIN derivative was stamped by a vehicle assembly line worker. I am sure the placement varied widely.
FR
I see nothing in the engine stamp pad that would cause me concern. It appears aged, painted over at one time and then cleaned. There appears to be broach marks and the size and shape of the characters look exactly like my '69 L36. The VIN derivative was stamped by a vehicle assembly line worker. I am sure the placement varied widely.
FR
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Gee- a dealer that just happens to post a slightly blurry picture of the stamp pad despite knowing the scrutiny they get, and then says nothing more than 'numbers matching' in the description. What does that tell you? 
There's no way anybody can give a thumbs up on a pad from a picture. 99% of the good fakes pass that test.
Please don't tell us that you're thinking of paying original engine money for a car that you've never seen or are not going to have professionally inspected?
There's no way anybody can give a thumbs up on a pad from a picture. 99% of the good fakes pass that test.
Please don't tell us that you're thinking of paying original engine money for a car that you've never seen or are not going to have professionally inspected?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: CA.
i think for that kind of money you can find a much better vette but thats just my opinion. oh, like faster rat said the broach marks are there but i never saw one stamped like that so i personally would not be comfortable if i were buying it.
Last edited by nutsy; Jan 8, 2013 at 07:32 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2011
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Gee- a dealer that just happens to post a slightly blurry picture of the stamp pad despite knowing the scrutiny they get, and then says nothing more than 'numbers matching' in the description. What does that tell you?
There's no way anybody can give a thumbs up on a pad from a picture. 99% of the good fakes pass that test.
Please don't tell us that you're thinking of paying original engine money for a car that you've never seen or are not going to have professionally inspected?
There's no way anybody can give a thumbs up on a pad from a picture. 99% of the good fakes pass that test.
Please don't tell us that you're thinking of paying original engine money for a car that you've never seen or are not going to have professionally inspected?
It is likely that I won't inspect it personally, but if the numbers all match properly I will get a professional to check it out, take detailed photos and go over with a fine tooth comb.
I have asked the dealer for photos of the POP, birdcage, frame, as well as providing the casting numbers from the block, transmission, rear end and carby. We will see if they add up before I pay someone to check it out for me.
I also asked if the vacuum systems work, if the clock works (not concerned if it doesn't, but if it is working it 'suggests' the owner looked after the car) and if the fibre optics work.
I think this is all I can do before paying someone to check it out...
Cheers,
John.
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My problem is I am picky, I want a factory black or fathom green 68 or 69 big block with manual transmission, sidepipes and power options. Not a lot to choose from over here...
I do realise that this car has a trim code suggesting gunmetal vinyl, but the interior must (I assume) have been replaced with green. I'm not too concerned about this item, as the interior looks good in green! So long as the engine, etc match...
Cheers,
John.
Melting Slicks
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2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
If and when I am ever ready to sell mine, I know where to look for a buyer. I'd be better off spending the effort down there than trying to get back 50 cents on every dollar that I've spent up here. Too many cheapskates in the US and Canada, looking for bargains in distress. 
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: About 1100 miles from where I call home.
Here in Oz this is dirt cheap for a 'numbers matching' big block...
My problem is I am picky, I want a factory black or fathom green 68 or 69 big block with manual transmission, sidepipes and power options. Not a lot to choose from over here...
I do realise that this car has a trim code suggesting gunmetal vinyl, but the interior must (I assume) have been replaced with green. I'm not too concerned about this item, as the interior looks good in green! So long as the engine, etc match...
Cheers,
John.
My problem is I am picky, I want a factory black or fathom green 68 or 69 big block with manual transmission, sidepipes and power options. Not a lot to choose from over here...
I do realise that this car has a trim code suggesting gunmetal vinyl, but the interior must (I assume) have been replaced with green. I'm not too concerned about this item, as the interior looks good in green! So long as the engine, etc match...
Cheers,
John.
I cant imagine a green paint/gunmetal car anyway, and if a change was going to be made, it would likely have been made to the Fathom Green which was commonly switched to black or another color.
The headrest design is wrong, common error.
Obvious repaint. Detail in body door jambs not very good.
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Thread Starter
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Trim tag says 427, which is in fact green vinyl, not gunmetal.
I cant imagine a green paint/gunmetal car anyway, and if a change was going to be made, it would likely have been made to the Fathom Green which was commonly switched to black or another color.
The headrest design is wrong, common error.
Obvious repaint. Detail in body door jambs not very good.
I cant imagine a green paint/gunmetal car anyway, and if a change was going to be made, it would likely have been made to the Fathom Green which was commonly switched to black or another color.
The headrest design is wrong, common error.
Obvious repaint. Detail in body door jambs not very good.
Thanks heaps everyone for their input, including those who PM'd some good info.
Cheers,
John.
Thread Starter
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If and when I am ever ready to sell mine, I know where to look for a buyer. I'd be better off spending the effort down there than trying to get back 50 cents on every dollar that I've spent up here. Too many cheapskates in the US and Canada, looking for bargains in distress.
http://gmdownunder.com.au/component/...nvertible-/102
CF Community Team
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From: Delaware
St. Jude Donor '25
If it means anything, nothing from that picture of the stamp sends up any immediate red flags for me. Engine build date is high on the pad as it should be on a BB. Numbers look right. Remember, this was a guy hitting this with a hammer, not a machine. Needs to be professionally examined though. The trim tag (to me) would be more reason for investigation. You say it should be gunmetal interior? Was that combo available (Green/Gunmetal)?
Thread Starter
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If it means anything, nothing from that picture of the stamp sends up any immediate red flags for me. Engine build date is high on the pad as it should be on a BB. Numbers look right. Remember, this was a guy hitting this with a hammer, not a machine. Needs to be professionally examined though. The trim tag (to me) would be more reason for investigation. You say it should be gunmetal interior? Was that combo available (Green/Gunmetal)?
Any other thoughts about this strange gunmetal/green combo - or the fact that the car is now green/green?
Thanks all.
Race Director
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From: Shamong, NJ
I'd say that configuration of the stamping, and the stamping itself, appear okay. I'd really like to see a sharper picture of that pad though.
The seller says the block casting date is Aug 30, 69, and the engine assembly date is October 3. Normally you'd expect to see the dates a little closer, but it's not outside of what is considered acceptable.
I'm wondering if anyone else is bothered by the small block surge tank, on a big block no air car?
427 car's are supposed to have a radiator with attached tanks, and a fill cap on the radiator. The radiator and surge tank are wrong, as is the water outlet (it's a 78-82).
When I see a big block car, with assorted small block components under the hood, it makes me a little suspicious.
The seller says the block casting date is Aug 30, 69, and the engine assembly date is October 3. Normally you'd expect to see the dates a little closer, but it's not outside of what is considered acceptable.
I'm wondering if anyone else is bothered by the small block surge tank, on a big block no air car?
427 car's are supposed to have a radiator with attached tanks, and a fill cap on the radiator. The radiator and surge tank are wrong, as is the water outlet (it's a 78-82).
When I see a big block car, with assorted small block components under the hood, it makes me a little suspicious.
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My black book is at home (I'm at work) so I've been relying on google, which sent me here:
http://www.69corvette.com/69specs.html
and here:
http://www.rogerscorvette.com/specs/69.htm
but now I look here it says 427 is green vinyl:
http://www.vettefacts.com/C3/1969.aspx
As does here:
http://www.corvsport.com/Corvette/C3...fications.html
The ad also states code correct green interior, so I am confused...
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I see all sorts of 'abnormalities'.
Very wrong brake master cylinder
Smog pump and system gone ($$$$)
Aftermarket shoulder belts- wouldn't pass a safety check here.
Sloppy repaint on the door latch and striker
Serious amount of rust on the console levers for the floor vents. Never seen that before. (???)
I notice that they don't show the rear under-bumper valance to know if this is an original sidepipe car.
I find it difficult to understand how this car could be considered a bargain after shipping, taxes, duty, etc. etc. are factored in.
Thread Starter
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I see all sorts of 'abnormalities'.
Very wrong brake master cylinder
Smog pump and system gone ($$$$)
Aftermarket shoulder belts- wouldn't pass a safety check here.
Sloppy repaint on the door latch and striker
Serious amount of rust on the console levers for the floor vents. Never seen that before. (???)
I notice that they don't show the rear under-bumper valance to know if this is an original sidepipe car.
I find it difficult to understand how this car could be considered a bargain after shipping, taxes, duty, etc. etc. are factored in.
If I picked it up for $30K (given I don't need his 2 year warranty, etc) I could ship here for $3.5K and pay $3K in GST, total around $37K. If this car was a numbers matching big block without these abnormalities (which I am now aware of) I would gladly pay $37K for it...
Here in Oz $37K will get you a 'good' numbers matching small block coupe, not even a small block frame off resto. For a decent numbers matching big block you need minimum $50K here.
Given our dollar is now (just) stronger than the USD it is a good time to import.
I guess the hunt continues...
Thanks for all your help guys, and apologies for the bum steer on the interior trim code.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2009
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2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I'm wondering if anyone else is bothered by the small block surge tank, on a big block no air car?
427 car's are supposed to have a radiator with attached tanks, and a fill cap on the radiator. The radiator and surge tank are wrong, as is the water outlet (it's a 78-82).
When I see a big block car, with assorted small block components under the hood, it makes me a little suspicious.
427 car's are supposed to have a radiator with attached tanks, and a fill cap on the radiator. The radiator and surge tank are wrong, as is the water outlet (it's a 78-82).
When I see a big block car, with assorted small block components under the hood, it makes me a little suspicious.
Some other minor defects have been pointed out to the OP, all of which can be easily remedied. I am always concerned about the lack of underbody photos when viewing on-line ads. This car could very well be in need of major mechanical rebuilding, not just restoration.
If it is a documented factory sidepipe big block car, it warrants further investigation. The dealer's price is undoubtedly negotiable. Makes one wonder what the previous owner sold it for? When buyers down under have to go thru dealers there, or dealers here, or possibly even on both ends...too many palms are getting greased. I just don't care for used car dealers...period. In this internet world, they serve virtually no purpose other than to hide defects and increase the price.
Team Owner
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
The listing says the car is green on green; confirmed by the pics. 427 is green vinyl; 983 if fathom green.
Pay specific attention to the very pointed fact that the listing does not mention original engine. It mentions only the casting number and "numbers matching".
Pay specific attention to the very pointed fact that the listing does not mention original engine. It mentions only the casting number and "numbers matching".
Last edited by Easy Mike; Jan 9, 2013 at 08:27 AM.
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My intent was not to put you off this car, just illustrate the need to have someone inspect it. Since you seem to put high value on original engine etc. that makes things far more expensive and complicated.