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Leave survivor Paint alone or cut/buff.

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Old 01-31-2013, 08:48 PM
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garyguinn
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Default Leave survivor Paint alone or cut/buff.

Hi all... Looking for opinions please..
Have a 70 Lt-1 coupe that looks to be sporting it's original enamel donnybrook green paint..
Scuffed, few chips, stress cracks, but still shines..

Would you just use a cleaner wax and clay bar
Or wetsand and buff it.

Not wanting to hurt her value if best to leave original...
NOM, correct intake, heads, t.i. Module. Carpet, paint, interior..
Tanks ticker and POP.

Non original dust, carb, missing air pump..

Nice rust free driving car...
Thanks in advance for opinions !
Gary
Old 01-31-2013, 09:04 PM
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Mike Ward
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Original paint is lacquer, not enamel. I'd make every effort to avoid repainting.
Old 01-31-2013, 09:12 PM
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Scratch
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You buy that one from here, from the Philly area?
Old 01-31-2013, 09:17 PM
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markids77
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Don't buff it, it has most likely been cut at least once already. Clay it ONLY if NO edges/body lines show primer. Otherwise simply wash and wax.
Old 01-31-2013, 10:29 PM
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garyguinn
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My apologies.. Yes lacquer , Ford I think was enamel...
The car came in from Az.. But was bought new in New Jersey...
Thanks for all the input guys... This forum is great

Gary
Old 01-31-2013, 11:29 PM
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7T1vette
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I think the right thing would be to do whatever makes it look better without removing any paint. That would mean no rubbing compound, no cutting (abrasive polish), and no color sanding (fine wet paper).

There is only so much paint put on originally; keep as much as possible for as long as possible.

If it were mine, I would clean it well, use claybar if it has imbedded dirt in the paint, then use a polymer polish...like Zaino or Mequiar's...instead of wax.
Old 01-31-2013, 11:43 PM
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my 76 ray
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I would use claybar. I've used it a couple times and it doesn't seem to remove any paint.
Old 01-31-2013, 11:49 PM
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noonie
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You can power polish or clay it, neither remove paint.
Then if you protect it, there should be no need other than waxing/sealing.
Old 02-01-2013, 07:21 AM
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jaxlt1
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I used Adam's Restore polish and a lot of white terry coth rags so I could see what I was removing. Really sounds like you have a SURVIVOR level car. It's only original once. My car is a SURVIVOR and Top Flight. I get a lot of satisfaction showing the car as it is.
Old 02-01-2013, 02:27 PM
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garyguinn
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thanks guys!

the carpet is nice except for the drivers floor...
the seats are in decent shape except for one split seam in each...

replace?
or would that hurt survivor value?
Old 02-01-2013, 03:12 PM
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Dale427
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Originally Posted by garyguinn
thanks guys!

the carpet is nice except for the drivers floor...
the seats are in decent shape except for one split seam in each...

replace?
or would that hurt survivor value?
Keep it original. As tempting as it is to tinker you must resist. There are plenty of redone cars out there. I have an almost original 69 vet but the previous owner replaced the slightly worn original seat covers with brand new after-market ones - I have been looking 2 years now for original seat covers in decent shape - they just aren't out there...

As far as paint is concerned, I use a high-quaility carnuba and a filling glaze (blue coral product X) either by hand or with a low speed polisher (NOT a buffer) and i get amazing results.
Old 02-01-2013, 05:38 PM
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Alan 71
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Hi gary,
I believe ANY original part you replace has an effect on it being a Survivor or BowTie car.
A Survivor/Bowtie car will still have the worn carpet and split seat cover.
Be careful that you don't confuse the degree to which a car is as it was when it left St.Louis, and how that degree of originality translates into value.
Regards,
Alan

Last edited by Alan 71; 02-01-2013 at 05:43 PM.
Old 02-01-2013, 06:15 PM
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~Stingray
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You can use clay bar it doesn't hurt anything. Just keep things lubricated and it will be a breeze. I agree with a polish too. A very fine polish won't do anything to the paint. Then wax over it after a day or so to help make it last.

Whatever you do, if you use a buffer machine, don't burn the paint. Be weary of edges and watch out for adding excessive pressure.
Old 02-02-2013, 12:05 AM
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7T1vette
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With Zaino (or other polymer polish) you don't need a buffer. That's one of the advantages over 'wax'. I can do the whole car with about 1 hour's labor. [15 minutes to put it on; wait more than 2 hours; 45 minutes to buff it out...without much work]

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