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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 12:56 AM
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Default C3 Interior Paint Question

I got an 82, came with camel, I am switching it out for all black. Bought black dye from Corvette America. Worked very well on quarter panel sides where the seat belts go. Problems:
1) The plastic parts on the steering column fish eye even when I sand down to base black.
2) The metal sheath where the telescope lever is, even when stripped to bare metal, it fish eyes with new paint.
3) The rear plastic panel that surrounds the back window, after cleaning it for an hour with soap I sanded it too but paint won't stick well. Applied 3 coats with HVLP, even increased the fluid control when I was getting a lot of overspray. Still dull areas where paint won't stick. Are you supposed to prime these parts before painting? I got so many different responses from every person I talked to or every youtube video/forum comment. use this, use that.
4) The bucket seats I ordered from Corvette America have a hard fiberglass like goop (I assume from the mold) that won't come off. They said use xylene or thinner, but that doesn't do crap. Its bad - the vinyl pattern has been damaged where these pieces are. Should I send it back or is there a way to remove this coating?

Thanks, and sorry if these are repetitive questions, but everyone seems to have different opinions.
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by bbsfca
I got an 82, came with camel, I am switching it out for all black. Bought black dye from Corvette America. Worked very well on quarter panel sides where the seat belts go. Problems:
1) The plastic parts on the steering column fish eye even when I sand down to base black.

This is from Cleaning products such as Armor-all the shine stuff, a good clean with warm soapy water and then Prepsole or a lite wipe with thinner, then a few dust coats with under coat, a very light rub down even with a scotch pad, then very light coats of the colour use more light coats than a few heavy ones. Dont try to cover it in one coat.

2) The metal sheath where the telescope lever is, even when stripped to bare metal, it fish eyes with new paint.

Warm soapy water and use about 600 wet and dry, then as above

3) The rear plastic panel that surrounds the back window, after cleaning it for an hour with soap I sanded it too but paint won't stick well. Applied 3 coats with HVLP, even increased the fluid control when I was getting a lot of overspray. Still dull areas where paint won't stick. Are you supposed to prime these parts before painting? I got so many different responses from every person I talked to or every youtube video/forum comment. use this, use that.

Maybe not so much HV and just do maybe 3 dust coats with a plastic primer then as above with less paint and more coats, sometimes less is more



4) The bucket seats I ordered from Corvette America have a hard fiberglass like goop (I assume from the mold) that won't come off. They said use xylene or thinner, but that doesn't do crap. Its bad - the vinyl pattern has been damaged where these pieces are. Should I send it back or is there a way to remove this coating?

Not sure with this one but maybe send it back.

Thanks, and sorry if these are repetitive questions, but everyone seems to have different opinions.
Your welcome

Last edited by 68ausrat; Feb 8, 2013 at 07:13 AM.
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 08:44 AM
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Your paint/dye adhesion problems are stemming from not get the parts clean prior to the color coats.

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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 09:37 AM
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Your fish eye is from possibly a silicone based polish or protector. After you sand use a prep chemical to wipe the parts down completely making sure not 1 iota of dust or past polishes remain.
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 11:31 AM
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I re-sprayed my interior in my 72 last winter. Here are a couple tips I found useful:

1. Clean everything with Acetone and either a scotchbrite pad or a cheap hand brush from the auto parts store, or an old toothbrush. This gets off all the old dye, Armor All, oils, and dirt. It will leave everything washed out and pale looking, but that is a good thing.

2. Use SEM Plastic Prep and Vinyl Prep where painting plastic and vinyl.

3. Use SEM Adhesion Promoter prior to paint.

4. Follow instructions on the primer, cleaner, and paint cans to the letter. I even used my iPhone timer to get the timing down between coats.

4.5 Use primer on metal parts.

5. Do light coats first to dust the part, then heavier coats to get the right texture and finish.

6. Let the items cure for at least 2 weeks in a warm, dry environment before handling.
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 05:29 PM
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Curby...

I'm not sure what you used for "dye", but the SEM 'ColorCoat' [that I get mixed from a pro auto body paint supply store] dries in about 10 minutes. After 30 minutes, I've reinstalled some items I've dyed with no problem at all.
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 05:38 PM
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Hmmm... I've redyed all of the plastic pieces in my '80 from white to red. I used the C.A. set of primer, adhesive, dye and clear coat sealer. I glass beaded the old color off then cleaned everything throughly with brake cleaner. That's the trick. The bare plastic has to be really clean.

When I sprayed the primer I let the parts cure in moderate heat for a few hours. Once the adhesive spray goes on I let it sit under the same heat for 1 hour then I put the dye on. After the sealer is applied and is allowed to fully dry, the end result is rock hard - incredibly durable. I've redyed almost two dozen parts to this point and have had no issues with finish. Great product.
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 02:34 AM
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I washed all the interior parts with detergent, rinsed well, let them dry; then shot them with SEM ColorCoat using a $10 PreVal bottle-sprayer. Worked like a charm and got parts that looked "factory new" [and I actually remember what that looks like!]. Seven years and 15,000 miles later, they still look that good.

Guess I'm just cheap and lazy....
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
I washed all the interior parts with detergent, rinsed well, let them dry; then shot them with SEM ColorCoat
Ditto.

Worked like a charm and got parts that looked "factory new"
Ditto.

they still look...good.
Same here twenty years on.

Guess I'm just cheap
Practical. One does not need $1000 in various products to redye interior panels and get good results. Preparation is the key.

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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 12:30 PM
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If I recall correctly, re-dyeing my interior cost me about $50....and that included the PreVal sprayer with 2 extra gas canisters. It would likely cost about $100, today. {Good thing there isn't any 'inflation'.}
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