restoring
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,302
Likes: 4,391
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi t,
I'm not sure any book has more detail on how the interior goes together than the AIM.
The sequence many people use is carpet, then dash and console, then interior soft and hard trim panels, door panels, and lastly seats.
The Willcox site has some good information on the dash and carpet installation.
It's not easy under the best of circumstances and the fit of the reproduction parts is not always very good.
Regards,
Alan
I'm not sure any book has more detail on how the interior goes together than the AIM.
The sequence many people use is carpet, then dash and console, then interior soft and hard trim panels, door panels, and lastly seats.
The Willcox site has some good information on the dash and carpet installation.
It's not easy under the best of circumstances and the fit of the reproduction parts is not always very good.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; Feb 17, 2013 at 01:57 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 445
Likes: 0
From: pennsylvania
For instance i need to know does the center dash go in first and what screws are used. Things like that. It is easy to say put the dash in first but what clips,what side goes in first,don,t forget to do this or that. I bought my car with no interior so i was stuck buying new. I already know i am going to have a hell of a time with corvette america garbage that i purchased.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 803
Likes: 4
From: Christchurch, New Zealand
I used a combination of a 1977 AIM (came with my 74 convertible!) and searching this forum to get mine back together. But mine was missing quite a bit, and all apart complicating things somewhat. Plus I'm in New Zealand, and there are a few, but not too many C3's around, but I did find a 74 coupe at an Isuzu dealership that I photographed and took notes off.
The only major issues I had were fitting the repro header panel across the top of the windscreen. Ditched it, and fitted the old cracked one. And getting the repro door panels to sit flat against the door. There were some novel solutions proposed for that! Still not 100%, but one day.........!
The only major issues I had were fitting the repro header panel across the top of the windscreen. Ditched it, and fitted the old cracked one. And getting the repro door panels to sit flat against the door. There were some novel solutions proposed for that! Still not 100%, but one day.........!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,302
Likes: 4,391
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi TG,
You HAVE to use the AIM as a guide.
The sequence for the dash that I prefer is the upper pad first, then the driver's side lower pad, then the e-brake console and shifter console, then the center gauge bezel, and finally the passenger's side lower pad.
You MUST test EVERYTHING as you progress or you will have gauges, lights, vents, etc. that don't work when you're finished and you'll have take things back apart.
Under the best of circumstances the dash and console is a difficult job.
Regards,
Alan
You HAVE to use the AIM as a guide.
The sequence for the dash that I prefer is the upper pad first, then the driver's side lower pad, then the e-brake console and shifter console, then the center gauge bezel, and finally the passenger's side lower pad.
You MUST test EVERYTHING as you progress or you will have gauges, lights, vents, etc. that don't work when you're finished and you'll have take things back apart.
Under the best of circumstances the dash and console is a difficult job.
Regards,
Alan
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Ive done quite a few of these projects. Ive been restoring for 20 years and mainly focus on C'3. First start by getting a interior screw kit. They come labled. 1. Lower column by taking out two lower bolts and then loosening bolts on firewall. Let column sag. 2. (L) dash install. Hook all lines/wires and rest it face down on column. 3. Upper dash. Make sure tabs find their home and self threading tabs are on dash. Use hole punch and stick in center hole on L dash and use it as a guide to meet up w/ upper dash. Screw on, then bolt back up column. 4. Shifter column. Hook up cables if non air or just set in controls on retainer and position on console. 5 Inst. cluster. Rest on towel and lay on console to hook it all up. Screw on to (L) dash 1st, then upper dash. 6 (R) Dash. Again use hole puncher as guide. 7. Screw on shifter console by placing two hole pun. in rear holes on console and place in clips that hold the rear on. Now screw on front of console. 8. Winshield trim. 9 Carpet. Do towards last because by now it would be dirty. 10. Seat belts, ebrake, seats, shifter plate, kick panels, door panels. Hole punch is my best tool. GOOD LUCK!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
Hi TG,
You HAVE to use the AIM as a guide.
The sequence for the dash that I prefer is the upper pad first, then the driver's side lower pad, then the e-brake console and shifter console, then the center gauge bezel, and finally the passenger's side lower pad.
You MUST test EVERYTHING as you progress or you will have gauges, lights, vents, etc. that don't work when you're finished and you'll have take things back apart.
Under the best of circumstances the dash and console is a difficult job.
Regards,
Alan
You HAVE to use the AIM as a guide.
The sequence for the dash that I prefer is the upper pad first, then the driver's side lower pad, then the e-brake console and shifter console, then the center gauge bezel, and finally the passenger's side lower pad.
You MUST test EVERYTHING as you progress or you will have gauges, lights, vents, etc. that don't work when you're finished and you'll have take things back apart.
Under the best of circumstances the dash and console is a difficult job.
Regards,
Alan
with the order and particularly the part about testing all the gauges and lights and power windows if if have them I have lived it several times. During assembly disconnect the battery (safety tip). 
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