C3 buyer's checklist?
I'm typing up my notes now and will post my list shortly and maybe you all can throw some additional things at me. (especially those particular to the 68-69 model years)
Last edited by trident91; Feb 22, 2013 at 10:59 AM.
Exterior
Vehicle sits level?
Hood, Trunk, Door fit
Soft top (fit, holes?)
A-arm shims
Paint ripples
Visible damage to frame or body?
Rust ?
Spare tire / jack
Oil leaks or Fluid leaks?
Tire tread + pressure
Interior
Door panels
Dash panel / bezel
Seats (springs, upholstery, adjustment)
Carpet
Storage compartments
Accessories
Heater / AC
Wipers
Headlights
Radio
Gauges
Defogger
Documentation
Title (valid, not suspicious)
Registration (valid, active)
Tank Sticker
Owner History
Repair History
Windshield VIN #
Engine VIN #
Engine Block Casting #
Transmission #
Questions to ask owner
Last servicing and what was done?
The things listed above are good things to ask and look for, I would also ask and look for these:
Body:
Weatherstripping
Glass condition (Do the window regulators roll up/down easy)
Signs of body repair, or modifications. (68-69s did not have factory flares as the 70's-82 C3's did, but depending on what you're wanting that might be fine)
I would check the paint and look and see if anything does not quite match the rest of the paint on the car, as that might be a sign of a wreck.
I would check the chrome and look for dents or damage, condition of chrome, etc.
Look for any cheap repairs.
Interior:
Everything you mentioned sounds good, just keep an eye out for anything that looks odd or catches your eye as a potential problem.
Look for anything that might be modified or non original to a 68-69.
Accessories
On the headlights, look at the vacuum lines and look for any cracking or dry rot. Look at the spaces of the headlight doors and the body, if they are not equal and one side is straight and the other is slightly off, that might indicate a wreck as well.
Wipers, early C3's are notorious for their headlights and wipers to be some of the biggest issues. IF the wipers work and the headlights work as well, then that is a plus. I have had to play with mine several times and in the end they still act up every once in a while. But I don't drive the car in the rain, although it has rained on me while driving it. So if the wipers work but are like mine where 2/3 times they work and you don't plan to drive it in the rain, then I wouldn't really worry too much about it. As far as the headlights go, I use them all of the time. So if they come up 1/2 of the time, I would hunt down the cause. For me, it was the vacuum lines that were old and needed replacing but thats just an easy symptom to fix.
The documents on the car are important. I would ask the owner for any photos of the car that he/she had and or email them to you. I would ask for history of the car from the (soon to be previous) owner that they have done with it, where all has the car been, why and when? How did the car do? Photos of the trip? Any vintage photos of it? If it is not a one owner car, get them to tell you about the previous owner, and ask the same questions. Ask about how long the previous owners owned them. Why are they selling it? If they will tell you how much they bought it for, etc. Protect -o plate?
LOTS of things to ask and see, just take your time inspecting the car, and NEVER look at it at night.
Hope some of this helps!
Looking for a 68 or 69..... NICE!!!!
My only piece of advice is to stand back and let the car tell you about itself.
Don't let the seller's descriptions make you think the car is something more than you're seeing.
Don't let the excitement of a 68-69 Corvette cloud your vision.
It's very important for the car to be both what you thought it was, and what you paid for.
That's what makes for a good relationship with a car. People often feel that their car is a money pit because they were unrealistic about just what it was, what it's needs were, and what they should have paid for it.
GOOD LUCK!
Regards,
Alan
My wife is a lawyer, we called him back, she spoke to him for a couple of minutes and he had his car back and I had my cash.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

540 is correct though , the importance of checking the frame Ect for rust cannot be over stated, covering up rust to sell is a pretty easy thing to do. I would bring an open mind and someone that knows these cars and has no opinion either way whether you buy it or not.
Ask to take it to a mechanic if need be, anyone that is on the up and up shouldn't have a problem with it.
My wife is a lawyer, we called him back, she spoke to him for a couple of minutes and he had his car back and I had my cash.

7363.jpg[/IMG]This started to fall apart when I was cutting out my trailing arms last spring. I had looked well at the frame with the car up on a lift. Have a flashlight with you to inspect.
Don't buy a car that spent it's life in a high-snow state (Yankeeland).




Most importantly, check for rust. Ive bought 68s and 69s that have had a bit of rust that I could deal with, because most of them are liable to have some because of the design. However, when there is significant rust in the frame and kickup areas, it's time to walk away.
Look for obvious repair to the body. Misaligned panels, evidence of previous bodywork, fiberglass patches coming back. Especially on a car with somewhat fresher paint... that's a coverup or a terrible repair job.
Be aware of the issue of matching numbers. If this does not matter to you, fine, but understand the significant impact it has on value. If you dont care about these things, dont be lazy. Pay NOM prices for NOM cars. Always check numbers for yourself; never, ever, ever take a seller's word for it.
Always bring a second set of eyes with you. Corvettes are emotional buys, even for those of us that have been buying them for decades. A second set of eyes (a Corvette person is better, but anyone) provides you that impartial second opinion.
Finally, its good to be prepared and even bring a list in the car when you go look at something. However, if you start walking around a seller's car with a clipboard acting like you are taking points off his car, be prepared to be sent on your way. Corvette people are more emotional than other car owners. Dont insult them.
My shop has done a number of inspections for potential buyers of C3and C2 vettes.
Coincidentaly, not a single one has passed the Price vs. condition test, so far...
-Things like a mechanic yes/no - and if yes things to look for
-Tools / Parts to have on hand
-Insurance to stay away from/good insurance companies to work with etc















I was going to continue posting, but I had leave for the 2 hour drive to Dallas, Texas to City Motor Supply and some other auto places as I am rebuilding my 72's 350.



