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383 Stroker Carb Question

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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 10:12 AM
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Default 383 Stroker Carb Question

I had everything under the hood replaced with a 383 Stroker crate engine, Edelbrock 750 carb, ceramic headers, etc., etc.

My local mechanic told me the carb was dumping gas into the engine and fouling the plugs. I asked about adjusting the lean/rich controls, etc., and he said they had adjusted the carb optimally and was still doing it.

He also recommended changing out the carb for a smaller one, like a Holley 550 or equivalent.

I live in a rural area and a Corvette expert mechanic is miles away, etc.

Does the above make sense? The original shop that did the engine conversion "might have" oversold me on what I needed for the engine. But, maybe not.

Opinions welcome.

Bob
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 10:21 AM
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The 750 should be fine most Q-jets are 750 and larger on a stock motor , so to suggest you need a 550 is sorta silly. If he can not adjust it I would take it someone who can , or who can tell you x y or z is an issue with the carb.
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 12:32 PM
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An Edelbrock 750 should be ok for that engine it sounds like nobody took the time to set the floats,check fuel pressure,and do the normal things that are supposed to be done when installing a new carb. If you have the book that came with the carb you can do it yourself or bring it to a shop that specializes in performance type work you dont need a "corvette" expert for that.
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by nonracer
An Edelbrock 750 should be ok for that engine it sounds like nobody took the time to set the floats,check fuel pressure,and do the normal things that are supposed to be done when installing a new carb. If you have the book that came with the carb you can do it yourself or bring it to a shop that specializes in performance type work you dont need a "corvette" expert for that.
Thanks. And to you, Diehrd.

I suspected as much but I'm not a mechanic. A local guy that has restored a lot of collector cars said it's against his religion to touch a carb. LOL Said if it was fuel-injected he would. I guess that unless you go to a performance shop, the newer generation of mechanics don't know much or anything about carbs now that fuel injection has been around for a while.

The carb didn't come with a book or pamphlet. I'm trying to locate one in the meantime.

I also just came back from gassing it up after a long winter and it started, idled and ran great, real smooth. I had sprayed carb cleaner before going out. Maybe that helped. Am tempted to take it for a run today, but there's still a lot of snow on the ground, etc.


Bob
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 12:47 PM
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Your local mechanic doesn't know much about carburetors if he can't get yours to stop fouling plugs and his 550 cfm recommendation for a 383 is absurd.
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 02:44 PM
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I have the ZZ383 package has shown in the Summit catalog.... We got the 750 they show on the engine.... Been perefect since day one.....
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by chiefbob
A local guy that has restored a lot of collector cars said it's against his religion to touch a carb. LOL Said if it was fuel-injected he would. I guess that unless you go to a performance shop, the newer generation of mechanics don't know much or anything about carbs now that fuel injection has been around for a while.
He's restoring collector cars and won't touch a carb?
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by CorvetteThom
He's restoring collector cars and won't touch a carb?
Past tense. He used to restore cars.
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 06:53 PM
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I'm running a 650 Speed Demon on my 383 in my 61 with mechanical secondaries. It runs great. A 383 stroker can handle a 750 as long as it's set up properly. The 550 isn't enough carb IMO.
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 08:01 PM
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its tuning, timing. car adjustments etc.....not carb....size
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 08:07 PM
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There is a lot of tuning info out there , it will be a learning curve but it is worth it.
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 08:17 PM
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possible dirt, etc can mess things up...had a piece of an o ring broke once and hung. up needle and seat..made float hang way up...but that is rare..I'm betting tunng
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 08:34 AM
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Okay, my head's spinning around after reading countless "how-tos", forum posts, conflicting info, etc. Also came across the Eddy 750 Stumble. LOL

I've downloaded and printed the Edelbrock carb owner's manual.

Now ready to order a tach and vacuum gauge. Would like opinions, if any, on these:

tach: http://tinyurl.com/bhs2upm

vacuum gauge: http://tinyurl.com/asdxw7d

They both had great reviews.

BTW, I should have mentioned that the carb/engine is only 3 years old. How do I tell what the Eddy series # is? Is it on the carb or a code stamped on it?


Bob

Last edited by chiefbob; Mar 11, 2013 at 08:35 AM. Reason: deleted duplicate item
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 09:40 AM
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get rid of the Edelbrock and get a Q-jet or a Holley
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by qwank
get rid of the Edelbrock and get a Q-jet or a Holley
Why? Theres nothing wrong with any of the carbs you listed but he already has the Edelbrock it just needs to be set up properly.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by chiefbob
Okay, my head's spinning around after reading countless "how-tos", forum posts, conflicting info, etc. Also came across the Eddy 750 Stumble. LOL

I've downloaded and printed the Edelbrock carb owner's manual.

Now ready to order a tach and vacuum gauge. Would like opinions, if any, on these:

tach: http://tinyurl.com/bhs2upm

vacuum gauge: http://tinyurl.com/asdxw7d

They both had great reviews.

BTW, I should have mentioned that the carb/engine is only 3 years old. How do I tell what the Eddy series # is? Is it on the carb or a code stamped on it?


Bob
Carb number is on the pass side base plate, if its a 750 it should be either a 1411 or 1407. Start you tuning by following Edelbrocks manual, float adjustments,idle mixture screws etc,etc.
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 03:48 PM
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From all I've read of the above posts, I would be suspicious of needle/seat-float setting. Do you have a fuel filter before the carb?
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dochorsepower
From all I've read of the above posts, I would be suspicious of needle/seat-float setting. Do you have a fuel filter before the carb?
I wondered about the filter and glad you asked.

I've checked and the carb is a 1411 series. Went out just now and started it up, and no problems with warming up and then idling.

Checked on the inline fuel filter and it doesn't have one. I thought the brass fitting where it meets the fuel line inlet had a filter built in like the previous stock Rochester had. If you are asking then I'm assuming one isn't built in.

Checking the Edelbrock manual for the 750, I found the Eddy inline fuel filter # 8873. Ready to order one, but here's my question: it mentions it should not be used where the fuel pressure exceeds 8 PSI. I've seen a reference for the PSI to be ~ 5.5 or so, so I also assume that the > 8 PSI is for high performance or racing?

Thanks,
Bob
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 05:18 PM
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I've searched Jegs, Summit, Amazon, etc., an no one has this filter. When I look for a replacement, I don't see the anti-drain back valve mentioned in any of them. Any suggestions for a replacement of the Edelbrock filter?
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Old Mar 12, 2013 | 05:47 PM
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You can do a simple fuel pressure test with a harbor freight gauge and once you verify your below 8 psi install a quality in line fuel filter. It is possible your flooding is caused by dirt making that garage who serviced your car a group of compete know nothings .. I mean how do you miss a fuel filter with carb work ????????
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