When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks. It was making me very crazy today. I took it out for a spin today and it fell flat on its face, it was pinging, dying, flooding and overall running like crap. Idled fine though. I was all ready to pull the fuel pump out and check out the work done there (P.O. did fuel pump a week before I bought it) when I noticed my distributor didnt look right. It used to be clocked with the coil parallel to the firewall... hmm... Turned it back and it was loose! I thought I tightened that hold down better than that, but I guess I didnt and it walked out of time. It runs like a million bucks now! Hurry up tomorrow before I wear the front tires off with a horrible alignment!
Also, it now idles at 750 in park, and 600 in gear with no hesitation!
Last edited by Arkyvette; Apr 3, 2013 at 01:34 PM.
Bummer. My alignment came into spec and it handles better, but I have a loose upper ball joint. I saw it myself on the alignment rack with play in the joint using the bar under the tire with lower arm supported method. These have maybe 10 miles on them and were greased upon install. Also one of my lower arms the bushing is not all the way through the inner lip and really needs pulled back out to seat properly and maybe to bend the control arm some. A friend with a shop used a control arm bushing press to put them in and they looked fine when I installed on the car, but after driving to the shop I can tell its not right. Maybe having weight on it brought the problem out. I am going to the parts store for new Moog upper ball joints and I dont care if they have a tophat or not.
Digging around cleaning things off underneath the rear. Looky what I found. I bet this is why its a bit bouncy in the rear. Maybe Monroe's just cant tame this thing.
Progress has slowed down. I broke my pointer finger on my left hand. A bit harder to wrench right now. Easy to drive it though! It is running great. Put some miles on it a few days ago and the only new symptom is a possible sticky TV valve in the trans. It sometimes shifts late and hard and other times will start out in second and shift like a slushbox. Now its back to normal shifting. Will change filter and fluid and see if it needs more attention.
Well, it needed lots more attention. I drove it 40 miles to a carshow and it made a horrible crunching noise and stopped shifting. AAA brought me home. I got some recommendations on a good trans shop and just dropped it off for a rebuild and upgrade. Its getting larger input shaft, better sunshell and some other goodies. Best part is his price was cheaper for the complete r&r job with upgrades than the other shops bench job. Actually he said he really didn't want to do a 700r4 as a bench job because he wants to set it up right before it leaves his shop. He is even replacing my pinion snubber. Only downfall is he wont touch a two piece rear main seal, so I get to do that after I get it back. Can't wait!
Edit: I took the car back without him doing the pinion snubber. he thought you could get the part at Oreillys....I ordered one from Zip and will do it myself.
Last edited by Arkyvette; Jun 7, 2013 at 01:28 PM.
Reason: clarification
Still waiting on my trans rebuild from my last "truck ride"
I did get my sending unit from Ecklers. BTW, if you didnt know, it comes with a gasket and screws, so you dont need to order a gasket and screws. Live and learn.
That will depend on what comes out when I do it. The p.o. Claims to have done the pump right before I bought it in an attempt to fix it. I saw 1985 fuel pump on the ticket and thought they might be crazy...now that I read more about it, that's an upgrade if its really there. It had rebuilt throttle bodies at the same time.
That will depend on what comes out when I do it. The p.o. Claims to have done the pump right before I bought it in an attempt to fix it. I saw 1985 fuel pump on the ticket and thought they might be crazy...now that I read more about it, that's an upgrade if its really there. It had rebuilt throttle bodies at the same time.
Well if the pump is the 85 unit, that is a plus and improvement.......
just make sure that the hose attached to the pump is "fuel rated" hose, if you are unsure and it is not showing signs of deteriorating, then you may be ok, otherwise I would change it out, since you are removing the assembly to replace. Just keep in mind that other 82 owners have had problems after a installation of a new pump, because the hose supplied with the pump was not "fuel rated" and the gas ate through the hose in no time!!!
Although the PO for my 82 never supplied me with some promised info, he did say that the TB's were set-up by an old school mechanic who really understood the workings of the CFI. I have no reason not to believe him on that, as my TB's spray perfect at idle, and the engine really does run extremely well. My idle is consistent with only minor fluctuations from time to time.
I have noticed that with the AC on, it does draw from the battery and my volts sometimes dip below 13 @ idle.
Have to check it out further as it may need a belt adjustment. I have to find a non-stretch belt to stay in adjustment all of the time...
Last edited by 74 LS4-454; Jun 2, 2013 at 09:48 PM.
The sending unit from ecklers came with hose. Wonder if its fuel rated? Can't see any lettering on it as its such a short piece.
If I remember correctly, I don't think that it is. You be better off going to the local auto store and just buy some, that way you are sure it is "fuel rated".
I changed out my sending unit this morning. Not that bad of a job from the topside once you realize there is only one way it can turn and fit through the hole. I believe the previous owner DID put an 85 pump in it as it had a connector on top and I had to swap this connector to my new sending unit. Used a new piece of fuel rated hose and one of my new gaskets and bolt sets. Fuel gauge works great and I feel so much better knowing exactly how much gas is in it. No more dipsticking the tank! There was one broken bolt holding it in, but I felt better leaving it out than drilling on a tank with fuel. It doesnt leak after a spirited drive, so mission accomplished for now until I replace the tank.
Ok, nice work, but I have to admit a little envy in that you have helpers..my two have no interest.
I have much work ahead of me, a lot of what you have done plus a little more. I will be heading over to a friends house to use his press and install new control arm bushings; hope that goes well.
Looking good and appreciate the pictures Arky.
Hey, you know something? Maybe the fact that this car still has 20+ year old fuel (sludge?) in the tank and gives a foul odor to the entire shed could be the reason no one wants to come hang out with me?? I may yank out that old tank in the next couple of days.
Set up for Saturday morn. to go to my friends and press the new control arm bushings in. I have 2 spacers fabricated to prevent bending the arms and I hope everything works out as planned.
I used some petroleum jelly on the bushings, that and making sure you don't have paint/powder coating on the inside of the openings and using the spacers. Should go in good for you.
Thanks for that tip, and yes I will need to remove a small amount of overspray from the ID where the bushing gets installed. I have also heard putting them(bushings) in the freezer for awhile helps too. I have used dry ice and liquid nitrogen for bearing fits so perhaps putting the bushings in the freezer will help.?
Spent a few hours this morning and replaced my pinion snubber. I read a lot of opinions, and ended up using a poly setup from zip. After reading about how they dont fit the 82 correctly, I was pleasantly surprised when it all fit together like a glove. No need to hog out any holes to make the bushings fit. I did have to take the driveshaft loose at the rear pinion and prop it up out of the way to get the bolt out. I tried like crazy to get it out at every possible angle and it just isnt happening without taking loose the driveshaft. My old one was trashed on top and looked great on the bottom. Please excuse the greasy underside of this car.... This and my new trans and I have no noise going into gear now!
Spent some time this past weekend and replaced the drivers door and drivers T-top weatherstripping. This is not a fun job at all. I am using the CRC kit from Wilcox. Good stuff I might add. scraped, pulled, chipped, gouged, fought all the old weatherstripping from the parts, cleaned the new stuff with thinner, then used 3m weatherstrip adhesive to glue it on. I still cant quite get the piece at the front of the door to sit right, but I think thats more my car than this trim. I then changed my rear axle fluid with new stuff and posi lube, then pulled my drivers seat out and replaced my seatbelt. I found some "items" from the previous owner. I found a bunch of them in the storage behind the seat but I guess a few more were under the seat.... Im GLAD this car CANT talk :-) I then attended a local show and met some cool Corvette guys. I would have better pics of weatherstrip install but my hands were gross.