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Why and when do use a double flair? I am looking into buying a flaring tool to put a flaire on my gas line so I can adapt a SS braided line to it. I see that most flaring sets come with double flaire adaptors. How do you tell what needs a double and what needs a single flair? TIA
There is more of a chance to create cracks in the end of the line material when using a single flare technique. The double flare essentially rolls a double wall thickness into the end of the line and prevents that same cracking potential. It (double) also allows for a thicker bead end over a single flare which will in most cases create a better seal against the fittings.
Terry
Last edited by HOOAH; Mar 22, 2013 at 02:19 PM.
Reason: spelling, not smarter than a 5th grader
I agree with Terry..brake lines are high pressure and are inverted or double flared. (so are most fuel lines)... keep in mind typical automotive production flares where 45 degree... the fancy -AN (army/navy) flares you find on most aftermarket stainless lines and fittings are 37 degree so keep this in mind with what parts you buy and with what flare tool you buy.
Last edited by mysixtynine; Mar 22, 2013 at 02:16 PM.
Reason: edit
I agree with Terry..brake lines are high pressure and are inverted or double flared. (so are most fuel lines)... keep in mind typical automotive production flares where 45 degree... the fancy -AN (army/navy) flares you find on most aftermarket stainless lines and fittings are 37 degree so keep this in mind with what parts you buy and with what flare tool you buy.
Are you saying that if I buy pre bent brake lines for a Corvette that the flare will most likely be 37 degrees?
i think the only thing that has a double flare on a car is brake line.double flaring a fuel line would be overkill and you will probably have a hard time finding a fitting big enough for fuel line.
The AN or JC fittings are 37 degrees. Pretty much all stock brake and fuel lines are SAE 45 degree fittings. The inverted flare fittings are also 45 degree. Dont mix and match. There's also the line material to consider and if it's seamless or non-seamless.
Why exactly do you want to adapt an old 7 psi hardline to a high pressure stainless braided? Just for looks?
The AN or JC fittings are 37 degrees. Pretty much all stock brake and fuel lines are SAE 45 degree fittings. The inverted flare fittings are also 45 degree. Dont mix and match. There's also the line material to consider and if it's seamless or non-seamless.
Why exactly do you want to adapt an old 7 psi hardline to a high pressure stainless braided? Just for looks?
The PO cut the gas line and has a lomg piece of rubber hose between the line and carb. I want to replace the old rubber line with SS braided line just to be safe.
You might want to consider replacing the Bubba'd setup with a proper OE-type hard line that connects all the way from pump to carb inlet. That's really the safest setup...
One piece of hardline, one or two bends, 2 flares (or 1 and a compression fitting) and you're done. I would always prefer a hardline for fuel, rather than any kind of flex line.
I guess it depends on year, model, etc... but I think the normal setup was hardline with a short rubber hose from tank to the pump. The original hardline fittings were inverted flair on both the carb and pump fittings. Those are double flair, 45 degree fittings. Safer, simpler, and cheaper than stainless braided.
Last edited by Garys 68; Mar 23, 2013 at 08:59 AM.
Hard gas lines are the same as brake lines. They should be double flared (45°), same as GM did them. GM used all hard lines for pressure and rubber for suction or depending on the filters, rarely used for return.
Just go to a parts store, get a longer length of 3/8" brake line. It will come with the proper fitting on both ends.
Bend it first and then cut to length, reinstall the last fitting and flare it.
A lot of aftermarket stuff is available in AN (JIC) 37° single flare, but that uses a sleeve under the nut.
Don't mix types of fittings. All your stock stuff is 45° double flare.
If you want to do this, do not buy a cheap flaring tool. You might ask at a good local auto parts store (probably NOT a national chain) if they can make up the tube you need. Just measure out the length of each section (if it needs to be bent), the angle and radius of any bends, and what type of flares/fittings you want. Making a simple piece up shouldn't cost as much as a decent flaring tool.
For low pressure fuel line, a good quality compression fitting is fine to connect from the existing line to the new one.
If I remember correctly from a previous post this is for an Edelbrock carb without an internal fuel filter, correct? What’s your plan for the fuel filter?
To answer your original question; double flair if your using an NPT fitting (45 degree) and single flair if your using an A/N fitting (37 degree). NPT fittings (45 degree) are good up to 3000psi. A/N fittings are good to 5000psi (A/N fittings use a ferrule to strengthen the single flair). Your fuel line is 4 to 8 psi, both are overkill, one more than the other. Certain aftermarket carbs require A/N fittings.
Stainless braided lines are rubber inside and in my opinion less safe because you won’t see the rubber deteriorate.
If you are looking for a 37 degree flaring tool, Summit has one for under 30 bucks. I had to run some brake line and fuel lines to AN fittings on my GTO. I only needed it for a few flares or else I would have gotten a better one. It worked for what I needed it for. Remember if youy are going to use a 37 degree flare you also need to buy some tube nuts and sleeves.
Everyone,
Thank you all for all the great information. I am going to try and do the whole line over so there is no more rubber hose at all. Thanks again.