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Well the weeklong thrash is over and the new rear end is under the car, everything sandblasted cleaned and painted. Now I am wondering how to set the rear wheel camber with the new adjustable strut rods. Does anyone know what the camber measurements are at the top and bottom of the tire and what is the best way to do it. Thanks Skip
Camber is not measured 'at the top and bottom of each tire', it's measured in degrees from perpendicular. Negative= top of tire closer to car center than bottom, positive =bottom if tire closer to car center than top. If I'm not mistaken factory spec for most C3's is 0-1/2° negative, which means the tire is somewhere between 'straight up' to tipped-in at the top enough to measure 1/2 degree negative.
I aimed for a 0 deg since the cushions were new, midway through the summer I re-checked and added about 1/4 deg on one side, the other went pretty much to 1/2 deg once everything settled in.
Still needs to go for a proper 4 wheel, especially since I've take the entire front off now.
Camber is not measured 'at the top and bottom of each tire', it's measured in degrees from perpendicular. Negative= top of tire closer to car center than bottom, positive =bottom if tire closer to car center than top. If I'm not mistaken factory spec for most C3's is 0-1/2° negative, which means the tire is somewhere between 'straight up' to tipped-in at the top enough to measure 1/2 degree negative.
I have set up many a sprint car with strings and a plumb bob and they all run up front. I will set the camber straight up and run it a mile or two and recheck. I have 2 digital angle finders so I can recheck it later I was just wondering what the initial settings were. It has to be checked under load so what do you use for perpendicular other than the wheel
Sorry Skip, by the verbage in your initial post it almost sounded like you didn't understand certain terminology. My mistake. I personally have a camber gage that I use for garage alignments, as long as you have a flat/ level floor that will work. The problem with aligning one of these cars 'completely' is getting the toe on both sides of the rear 'plumb' to the car centerline. Otherwise it's pretty basic...
Last edited by birdsmith; Mar 31, 2013 at 11:36 AM.
Sorry Skip, by the verbage in your initial post it almost sounded like you didn't understand certain terminology. My mistake. I personally have a camber gage that I use for garage alignments, as long as you have a flat/ level floor that will work. The problem with aligning one of these cars 'completely' is getting the toe on both sides of the rear 'plumb' to the car centerline. Otherwise it's pretty basic...
Thanks Birdsmith sometime I don`t make myself to clear no problem I appreciate the help I set it up this morning with a digital angle finder on the wheel rim. I set it up at zero and will get a 4 wheel done in a few weeks after it has settled. The toe is kind of like building an airplane I take a piece of safety wire and hang weights from each end to use as a centerline from the tailpost and firewall center and square the airframe up from that. I think this car has a little toe out as it lacks some straight line stability but like I said it is in the ball park and a good 4 wheel alignment will take care of it.
I'm with you...I actually took mine to Sears and had them put it on their rack to set the rear toe (or at least verify that it was where it should be) after I rebuilt the rear of the car.
I normally avoid paying for any kind of work on any of my cars, but in this case I had a coupon for an $80 four-wheel alignment so I took advantage of it.
A few years ago I finally broke down and invested in a camber/caster gage. Best money I ever spent...paid for itself the first time I used it.
I'm with you...I actually took mine to Sears and had them put it on their rack to set the rear toe (or at least verify that it was where it should be) after I rebuilt the rear of the car.
I normally avoid paying for any kind of work on any of my cars, but in this case I had a coupon for an $80 four-wheel alignment so I took advantage of it.
A few years ago I finally broke down and invested in a camber/caster gage. Best money I ever spent...paid for itself the first time I used it.
I`m with you there I absolutely hate to pay someone for something I can do for myself.
Camber is easy to set, toe takes time and dedication.
Rear camber spec is 3/4 dgr neg. IMO that is a good spec, I wouldn't mess with it. I tried less and it got tail happy.
You can set toe at home but it takes some effort. I do it with 4 jack stands and string along the sides of the car. The strings must be parallel. You can't go by the rims as the C3 has different front/rear track. Once you have parallel strings you set them to be equal distance from the front rim center and then set rear toe. That way the thrust angle is correct (car will not go down the road sideways).
I have a Longacre digital caster/camber gauge. It has paid for itself many times over.
Mds3013: Looks perfectly alright to me. Of course you've made sure the hub and car is at ride height and the strings are parallel. I do mine with the wheels on which probably takes a bit longer as I have to jack the car up to do changes and then roll the car back and forth to settle the suspension.
MDS3013 what you have here is a work of art and you should have no reason to have tire wear or pull. I will do this same method to mine when I do the trailing arms next winter. Thanks for the great idea
Zwede is my hero. I have utmost respect for his work. I will post these pics. but you must decide if you want to use them. mike...
Camber can be set with a spirit level at this point also. Do not blame me, this is how I was taught.
Let the flaming begin....
I have set many a sprint car the exact same way the only difference is I use a little reverse Ackerman on the left front to make the car cut into the corner a little better