Ignition Switch Sector Problem
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Boyne City, Michigan
Ignition Switch Sector Problem
I had to replace the ignition lock cylinder in my vette and I had a lot trouble doing it. I finally got the old one out and the new one in, but it didn't feel right and didn't line up properly. The engine won't turn over when I turn the key (which wasn't a problem before).
In this photo, you can see the lock position is slightly off and when the key is turned, it does not seem to rotate far enough to engage the switch.
So I took the new ignition cylinder out again to see if I could figure out the problem. The only thing I think could be wrong is the ignition switch sector's gear teeth seem to be misaligned with the teeth on the switch rod above it. (See photo below)
Could it be possible that I knocked those out of alignment when I was fighting the old ignition lock cylinder and therefore does not engage far enough to trip the ignition switch?
In the second pic, you can see that in the lock position, the first tooth from the switch rod (white arrow) is not in the first notch on the sector (black arrow).
I would like to know if this is actually the cause of the problem and if it is, how can I realign the teeth?
Any help would be great.
Thanks
In this photo, you can see the lock position is slightly off and when the key is turned, it does not seem to rotate far enough to engage the switch.
So I took the new ignition cylinder out again to see if I could figure out the problem. The only thing I think could be wrong is the ignition switch sector's gear teeth seem to be misaligned with the teeth on the switch rod above it. (See photo below)
Could it be possible that I knocked those out of alignment when I was fighting the old ignition lock cylinder and therefore does not engage far enough to trip the ignition switch?
In the second pic, you can see that in the lock position, the first tooth from the switch rod (white arrow) is not in the first notch on the sector (black arrow).
I would like to know if this is actually the cause of the problem and if it is, how can I realign the teeth?
Any help would be great.
Thanks
Last edited by dkrawec; Apr 6, 2013 at 07:19 PM.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
From: washington
before you yank it apart or pull anymore hair out (Just kidding)
I just went through this...
Replaced my key switch on my 69
there's a rod that goes down the top of your colum you need to drop that plastic piece under your steering wheel and drop you colum down (two bolts)
let your wheel rest on your D seat look on top of the colum you see the rod its bent
goes into a bock two tinny bolt 5/16 with out unplugging that box wiggle that rod out from under nieth then try to see if that helps with your switch issue rod might be binding
Sorry if I make it sound complicated it's fairly simple
is your a tilt wheel.?
I just went through this...
Replaced my key switch on my 69
there's a rod that goes down the top of your colum you need to drop that plastic piece under your steering wheel and drop you colum down (two bolts)
let your wheel rest on your D seat look on top of the colum you see the rod its bent
goes into a bock two tinny bolt 5/16 with out unplugging that box wiggle that rod out from under nieth then try to see if that helps with your switch issue rod might be binding
Sorry if I make it sound complicated it's fairly simple
is your a tilt wheel.?
Racer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
From: washington
if its not the rod binding your going to have to remove that coller to get to the other side of that gear has a stem and the other side you'll find a "C" clip you'll have to remove to pull that gear out and turn it that is tricky because there's a single wire (spring that helps the key switch returns back luckly I had a spare to practice on or you would have been reading my how do I fix the swich gear issue...I wish I would have taken pictures
Racer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
From: washington
Sorry this is my only picture will try to get some more I have an extra in pieces that should help with what I'm talking about when I say you have to remove that coller to get to the "C" clip to remove that gear to reset it but try the rod see if it's not binding that will save you a lot of agrivation ..((sorry aboot my spelling/punctuation).....s
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the colum on the left with the 16" vette wheel if you look real close you can see half way down the rod (start rod) that the one you need to see if it's binding........s
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the colum on the left with the 16" vette wheel if you look real close you can see half way down the rod (start rod) that the one you need to see if it's binding........s
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Boyne City, Michigan
Ragtop...It is not a tilt column. And thanks for the info. However, I don't yet understand (sorry)
Can you confirm that you think the gears misaligned is the problem ? Or are you saying it a different issue altogether - the one about the binding rod?
Can you confirm that you think the gears misaligned is the problem ? Or are you saying it a different issue altogether - the one about the binding rod?
Racer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
From: washington
ok this is a 1969 nontilt colum
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the blue line are next to the "start switch rod)
the yellow is the start switch
the red are the two small bolts (5/16.?)
remove them and lift the start switch
leave the rod loose it will stay next to the columb
try turning your key if it moves freely then
your start switch need cleaning / lube
.......s
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the blue line are next to the "start switch rod)
the yellow is the start switch
the red are the two small bolts (5/16.?)
remove them and lift the start switch
leave the rod loose it will stay next to the columb
try turning your key if it moves freely then
your start switch need cleaning / lube
.......s
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Boyne City, Michigan
Ragtop, Thanks again for the additional pictures and info. I see what you are talking about now. I will drop the column and let you know what happens in the next few days.
Much appreciated. Stay tuned in.
Much appreciated. Stay tuned in.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Boyne City, Michigan
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
I think that you are going to have to remove the three or four screws that hold the lock housing to the rest of the steering column. That will allow you to reposition the locking bolt and rack to the plastic sector gear.
If you find that your plastic sector is broken, here is how you get the old one off of the shaft in the housing.
I really don't understand how your rack and sector could have "jumped a tooth" by just removing the lock cylinder. I would think that you originally had the problem since just removing the ignition lock cylinder should not have caused the misalignment problem.
Jim
If you find that your plastic sector is broken, here is how you get the old one off of the shaft in the housing.
I really don't understand how your rack and sector could have "jumped a tooth" by just removing the lock cylinder. I would think that you originally had the problem since just removing the ignition lock cylinder should not have caused the misalignment problem.
Jim
Last edited by Jim Shea; Apr 8, 2013 at 08:16 AM.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
From: washington
thank you Mr. Shea well done with pictures now I wont have to pull down my columb any further with that explanation it should be very clear.....s
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Also I think I know how it jumped a tooth..!
When the ignition rod get bound up because of a stuck start switch forcing the key toward the start position will cause that
(guilty as charged) I broke my sector doing the same as OP.
Replacement can be found @ CC......s
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Also I think I know how it jumped a tooth..!
When the ignition rod get bound up because of a stuck start switch forcing the key toward the start position will cause that
(guilty as charged) I broke my sector doing the same as OP.
Replacement can be found @ CC......s
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Boyne City, Michigan
I was able to fix the problem pretty easily. I moved the lock housing away from the rest of the column like this:
From here it was easy to see the sector gear through the gap.
I was able to lightly tap it out (like in Jim Shea's photos) and I just turned the sector a little to line up the way it's supposed to then I pushed it back into place. Everything seems to be working properly now.
Thanks for all the help, everyone!
From here it was easy to see the sector gear through the gap.
I was able to lightly tap it out (like in Jim Shea's photos) and I just turned the sector a little to line up the way it's supposed to then I pushed it back into place. Everything seems to be working properly now.
Thanks for all the help, everyone!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
It is great to know that with your 1969 standard (non-adjustable) steering column, it is possible to just pull steering wheel and hub; remove the locking plate; pull the turnsignal switch out of the way; remove the four screws and move the turnsignal switch housing rearward. Then the plastic sector gear can be repositioned correctly without removing the steering column from the car.
Also I notice that you have an early 1969 steering column. Note the decal on the shift bowl that indicates that you can see the bowl rotating when you shift into REVERSE (manual trans) or into PARK (auto trans). Later in the 1969 model year, a stationary plastic shroud was added over the shift bowl so that you could not longer see the bowl rotate.
Jim
Also I notice that you have an early 1969 steering column. Note the decal on the shift bowl that indicates that you can see the bowl rotating when you shift into REVERSE (manual trans) or into PARK (auto trans). Later in the 1969 model year, a stationary plastic shroud was added over the shift bowl so that you could not longer see the bowl rotate.
Jim