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Floorpan patch up

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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 03:19 PM
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Default Floorpan patch up

I've got two fist sized holes in my floor pan. One on each side. I am wanting to know what gauge of sheet metal to get as a temporary patch solution as I save up for the pan. Thanks !
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 04:13 PM
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I would consider a good body panel adhesive, patch it up

clean all surface rust, treat with rust treatment, apply body panel adhesive, paint with a stoneguard or similar
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 04:27 PM
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No, NO, No! It must be repaired using a "borrowed" Stop sign or some corrugated roofing tin or a recycled Dodge pickup truck tailgate! How are you gonna tell a hairraising story about how you procured some "body panel adhesive"???? Adventure awaits... go out and liberate some sort of 14 gauge or thicker sheet metal from somewhere, pop rivet it in and come tell us all about it.
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 05:00 PM
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How about pieces from an old wood furnace....

Welded in.....

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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 05:40 PM
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Take a pattern and go down to your local sheet metal shop along with a sample of the existing material to match it up. They can even cut the metal for you.

I had the same problem as 'ironwills76corvette'. Driverside was 'thin', the passenger side was good. I got a doner pan out of a salvage Corvette, copied the spots welds, lapped welded at the tunnel and rivited the metal pan to the fire wall as per factory specs'.

A fair bit of work but nothing that I will have to do again any time soon.
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 05:51 PM
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Default I only had 1 fist sized hole.

I only had 1 fist sized hole on the driver side floor pan on the 76. I just cleaned all the remaining metal good, painted with rust reformer, and fiberglassed over the whole pan including bridging the hole. I thought this was a good repair and way cheaper than buying a new metal pan for $200 and then welding it in. My area was good though for the seat belt anchor bolt and seat bolts. I suppose if your bolt connections are suspect, then maybe do something different. Pre 76 floor pans were all fiberglass anyway with I think a metal reinforcing backer plate to bolt to.

Hope this helps.
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 09:34 PM
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Atta boy Ironwills! That's what I'm talking about; good old Yankee thrift and ingenuity. And installed in a very neat workmanlike manner. Solid, permanent and virtually undetectable with the carpets installed. And the materials were FREE!!!!!
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 10:27 PM
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i meant use metal..but fuse it in..watch youtube on body panel adhesives ....often much stronger than welds......seen demos where welds break before adhesive...on frame machine
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 11:12 PM
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I've got a welder, gonna go measure the floorpan, get 14 gauge sheetmetal and will go that route
Will update with photos.
Drivers side



Passenger side

Last edited by czardali; Apr 18, 2013 at 11:37 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2013 | 09:13 AM
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Boston... my comments were made with tongue firmly in cheek... my bad if they were taken seriously.Although Ironwills repair is good.

Last edited by markids77; Apr 19, 2013 at 09:14 AM. Reason: added a sentence
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Old Apr 19, 2013 | 09:30 AM
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If you only have those two small areas why replace the pan, just do a good butt weld patch and treat the rest and forget it
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Old Apr 19, 2013 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by markids77
Atta boy Ironwills! That's what I'm talking about; good old Yankee thrift and ingenuity. And installed in a very neat workmanlike manner. Solid, permanent and virtually undetectable with the carpets installed. And the materials were FREE!!!!!
Thanks! My wife says I'm so cheap that I squeak when I walk.....

I personally like to butt weld as mentioned by AirborneSilva, to avoid an overlap where moisture can start rust. Other than the front, as mentioned also is riveted to the fiber glass.

The old wood furnace lives, albeit in hiding. Our little secret......

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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 01:31 PM
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Drivers side photo. gonna shape a new sheet today to cover a larger area.
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