Guys, I expect there are a bunch of threads on this already....but I will ask anyway....getting ready to purchase a project C2 or C3, what is the main area I should be concerned about.? I figure it must be rust on the frame....but you experts tell me (please)....

 

Well I am no expert on this but if your looking for a project car inspect it fully before you buy one. Once you see it spend the night figuring out what it will cost to restore the car.

My main concern when I was looking for a C3 was the engine, suspension and body than what it would take to get them in shape again. I was not looking for a project car but knew anything I bought over 30 years old was going to require some work on it. After about 3 months of searching I found a 1977 with about 45,000 orginal miles on it.

The body on mine was in great shape but the body lines sag a bit and it was repainted once. The interior is in awesome condition for 35 years old just a few slight cracks in the door panels. Original stereo system and the dash speakers are cracked and it does not hold a station tune. I am in the process of upgrading and bought a Retro Sound Stereo system same time I purchased all the steering componets.


I drove it and it pulled to the right. I knew it needed an alighment. So I put it on a lift and greased the front end. What did surprise me it was dry and the power steering unit grease fitting spit out a ton of white water. SO at this point is was no suprise that at least 2 out of the 3 pervious owners did not maintain the steering componets with grease and metal to metal wore it all out. Took it into a shop for alignment and again no surprise it needed the entire steering system replaced.

The suspesion has the usual dry rot on the rubber control arm bushings but nothing that needs to be replaced right away. I do however have to rebuild the entire steering system with new parts. Upper and Lower Ball joints, Idler Arm, Tie Rod Ends, Steering Control unit and Steering unit. The Power steering units are all leaking so I also bought all new hoses. The Shocks all look stock so that is the next step after I replace the steering system.

Once I get a chance I will pull all four tires of it and inspect the bearings and brake system to see if any of these components need replacement.

It does have an improperly installed dual exhaust system so I had to buy some Mylar Fabric to keep the heat off the rubber shift cable and put a Mylar Fabric clamp style protector over the drivers side CAT because it was bubbling the under coating so I need extra protection so it did not catch my a$$ on fire since the CAT is right under the drivers seat.


The frame will almost always show signs of rust but that is easy to clean up with some work and paint. Mine was already under coated and fresh coat of paint on the body. I did look for stresses in the frame and body mounts to see if it was ever bent from an accident. Most I saw was the front nose is saging a bit in the body lines and they did not fix it when they repainted the car.

At sustained speeds of 80 MPH the engine gets a little warm so I figure it is the Thermostat not opening all the way and probably also 35 years old so I purchased a Mister Gaskit High Flow 160 dual stage thermostat so it will cool the engine better probably going to install it on Sunday. The valve covers on these early model L48 Engines also leak a bit so I purchased the most expensive Fel Pro Gaskits and the longer lenght Spectre Hold Down brackets for the valve covers.

The Tranny has had work on it and someone installed a shift improver kit at some point because it shifts hard on the 350 Turbo Tranny. The fuild is clean so I figure it is a shift kit and called a Tranny shop than they confirmed it with my description on how it shifts. I will probably have them in the future soften the shifting with smaller ports.

Only advise I have is inspect it and after inspection figure out the cost to fix it up.

My 1977 I figure will be about $2000.00 after I am done and knew up front any 30+ car I bought would cost me some money to get in the shape I wanted it in.

Hope this information helps in your choice of a C2 or C3 Vette.

 

Hey,
Thanks for the reply. I have done a lot of work on my current c5 (changed engine, trans, rear end, interior and had it painted)....but after 10 years, letting it go. I am looking at different 63 to 71 vettes as a replacement project...even though I do have a 55 chevy truck I am still sorting out. My concern is that I get a solid foundation (frame etc); I have no problem replacing suspension components and other stuff but my concern is/are the lesser seen areas where rust can be an issue or if there was/is frame damage.... I went through a 69 Camaro a few years back and there were "hidden" rust issues I would have rather known about.....

 

get ready to open your wallet really wide. I think the best deal are on cars people have paid immense money and labor to complete , turn key cars and being sold off for various reasons.


best luck

 

do you want it running when you buy it? Before I bought my 1977 I saw a lot of cars between 1976 and 1979 and chose the 1977 because it was the last year of the Mako Stingray Body Style even though the drop the Stingray badge in 1976. I wanted a stingray.

The frames are all metal and fully framed mostly fiber glass bodies and the only concerns are in the 1976 and later because of the metal floor pans in these later years once they started to install CATs on them for Emission controls. They can rusto out and 1975 is the year to avoid since it has the lowest HP all of Vettes produced 165 HP and again in 1982 when they put a TBI system on them TBI was too young at this point. The 1963 Fuel injections systems also are finicky and know a dude that has one. The Split Glass rear window is cool looking but from what people have told me about the fuel injection systems in this year they are great when they are working properly.

 

yep, I figure that....I am looking in the $25k-$45K range....but what I want to make sure of is that the car has not been hit (bent frame) or excessively rusty....so I am not saying money is no issue, but I work on these things and have no problem...I just don't want to do what I did to my 97 c5, put a bunch of money it and only have something worth have that....although I will miss the LS motor and the 550 plus hp......man, it is so reliable too.....but looking forward to a c2 or c3....if I can get something solid....

 

Thanks for the insight; I like the c2s but they are relatively high (still considering though)...as for c3s, I like the pre-72 'cause I like the small chrome bumpers (now not saying I don't like the mid seventies...and for the right price....) - but am currently looking at a couple of non-numbers matching mid 60s and some early c3s.....so anyway, I am considering several options.....I don't intend this to be a daily driver.....

 

by the way it was a 69 Camaro...had a typo....would not have an 89...

 

You are doing the research which is great. Wish I could have afforded and earlier model corvette my top was 10 Grand and I bought the best one I could in my price range. If I had 20 grand to spend it would in the Model years your looking for and could have bought one. We have several shops here in the Denver area that sell only classic cars and they had many I wanted and could not afford


The early models had more HP and in 1972 they swtiched from Gross HP bench HP to NET Horse Power and Torque. They had to quit using false data on cars for the HP and Torque Ratings. Most engines lost about 100 HP in 1972 because the had to advertise NET HP on the Dyno readings instead of LAB produced Gross HP ratings.

 

Thanks man, even though I am looking for an earlier model, your info helps....I am not necessarily looking for a spec correct car, just a really solid foundation... I have worked on small block Chevys and LS motors so I may tweak the HP of any one of these....but my "must haves" are solid, with no rust and a 4 speed....we'll see what I end up with.....

 

Here is some rust info:

http://corvettec3.ca/rustpics/index.html

click on home and you can see some other good C3 info.

I think C2 suspensions/frame is similar.

Also, Richard Prince has a book called C3's buyer guide which is good.

Hope this helps with the C3's anyway.

 

My .02....

The frame design on Corvettes between 1963 and 1982 were essentially the same. The important things to consider are:

1. Frame and birdcage (box frame around the passenger compartment...includes the windshield framework). If you have significant rust problems [where the strength of the frame has been significantly weaked by rusting], your project will be in the toilet to start.

2. Find a car that does NOT need a new paint job. Or, if you do your own paint, find one that is low-dollar because it DOES need a new paint job. New paint is expensive if you have to purchase it from someone else.

3. Get a car that is mechanically sound. If you purchase a 40+ year-old car with 40+ year-old mechanicals (suspension, brakes, steering, etc), you will have a lot of expensive work to do...just to get the car roadworthy.

4. Know the value of the cars you are checking out. Buy one that will hold its value or even gain in value in the coming years. Get your money's worth.

5. Don't buy a low mileage museum piece...unless you have a museum and plan to put it there.

 

Good into (all you guys)...I am, however, looking for the most mechanically sound car.....I can get a pretty good paint job for $5-$7k if not much real body body damage....I do agree that I need something with good bones...I will try to find that....again though, not a daily driver....but thanks you have good info....just so all commenters understand, unless is very rare car, I will be pulling the engine, changing the cam, doing head work, adding a pertronixs igniter and doing some "reversible" tuning....but want a sold foundation to start with....

 

If you are looking to spend $25k to $45k, you should be able to get a near perfect c3, or a really nice c2. Look for one that the previous owner dumped all the time and money into already, and get it checked out by a Vette specialist, it is worth the cost.

 

What do you know about the C2s and C3s? Why not purchase one or two of the Corvette history coffee table books and read up on them?

This is reasonably good for C3s:

 

As mentioned above structural and birdcage are the number one concerns. Buy a complete car in as original shape as possible. Learn the differences in the model years so you can spot a car that has been altered or repaired with incorrect parts. Corvettes don’t seem to die they are revived and rebuilt often time from donor cars of various years. Just my thoughts

 

Birdcage rust would be my #1 concern. Rust in this area is hard to spot, the body can look great with little framework holding it together, water leaks, etc. Repairs to the birdcage can be VERY expensive given the labor involved in taking the body apart to gain access. The frame would be a close #2 concern, easier to spot rust problems but still expensive to fix properly.

If the car has no rust issues, paint and bodywork I would think are next on the list of expensive repairs. Best if you find one which doesn't need either.

 

I'm restoring a late C3. Rusted frames and Bird Cages suck, no doubt about that and when my project is finished I should right a book on the subject. I had to replace my frame. The replacement frame looks fantastic. As for the Bird Cage, I purchased a rust free Cage out of a '76; the clips and brackets from my '80 Cage will go onto the '76. If you have a passion for the car (and money in the bank) nothing can get in your way.

 

thanks guys this is good info.