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OK so I finally completed reinstalling all of the dash & console components & what a job it was. Everything works except the temperature gauge. Before I start removing the dash to get at the temp gauge is there some way of verifying it's a bad gauge & not some other issue?
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Ground out the wire at the sender. If the gauge pegs hot, you know the gauge is at least working. If you ground the wire and it does not move, you can narrow it down a little.
Right now the gauge doesn't move. I made sure the insulating washer was in place. I will try grounding the sending wire & see what the gauge does. What is the ohms wire?
Pulled sending wire from sending unit & grounded to manifold this caused the gauge to peg hot. When I removed the ground gauge went back to full cold reading. Where do I go from here?
by doing this you have confirmed the gauge is working, and the wiring from the dash gauge is fine including power and ground... So the only other item is the sending unit.
With a multi-meter see if you get a ohm reading from the sender. Make sure the sender doesn't have an excessive amount of Teflon tape on it. (first three threads only in my shop)
by doing this you have confirmed the gauge is working, and the wiring from the dash gauge is fine including power and ground... So the only other item is the sending unit.
With a multi-meter see if you get a ohm reading from the sender. Make sure the sender doesn't have an excessive amount of Teflon tape on it. (first three threads only in my shop)
Willcox
I think this may be the problem I tend to get a bit zealous with the Teflon. I'll check to see if I get an ohm reading before I pull the sending unit which would call for draining the coolant not fun but sure beats having to pull the gauge cluster. I really appreciate everyone's help I've said many times & I'll say it again the folkson this forum are wealth of knowledge & always willing to share that knowledge. Thanks so much guys
OK so I connected one lead of the test meter to the sending unit terminal & grounded the other lead to the exhaust manifold. The reading was 2.5 ohms. This was with everything cold. Is there a problem with the sending unit or is the 2.5 ohms Reading OK?
Before you go to that trouble test it see if it's putting out an ohm reading... then hold a jumper wire to the side and see if it gets one. You'll know if it's a ground issue or a defective sender real quick.
Willcox
Ernie I don't understand what you mean by "hold a jumper wire to the side & see if it gets one". Did you see my previous post stating a reading of 2.5 ohms?
I think this may be the problem I tend to get a bit zealous with the Teflon. I'll check to see if I get an ohm reading before I pull the sending unit which would call for draining the coolant not fun but sure beats having to pull the gauge cluster. I really appreciate everyone's help I've said many times & I'll say it again the folkson this forum are wealth of knowledge & always willing to share that knowledge. Thanks so much guys
Before you go to that trouble test it see if it's putting out an ohm reading... then hold a jumper wire to the side and see if it gets one. You'll know if it's a ground issue or a defective sender real quick.
Ernie I don't understand what you mean by "hold a jumper wire to the side & see if it gets one". Did you see my previous post stating a reading of 2.5 ohms?
Depends on the temp of the engine.. go to my site.. Select your year... then search temp... when you do this you'll get a selection menu... click on Tech pictures...
I have the missing washer on the 3 oclock post syndrome (washer is in place). One thing I can't figure, is that if the fibre washer prevents the post from grounding on the gauge cluster case, what's to stop the 90 ohm resistor grounding it on the 9 oclock post that doesn't have the washer?
Depends on the temp of the engine.. go to my site.. Select your year... then search temp... when you do this you'll get a selection menu... click on Tech pictures...
You'll find a chart of expected values per gauge.
Oh.. better yet.. I'll post it here.
Ernie I am assuming you guys sell a good quality sending unit.
Nope.. no one does... Sorry. I'm working on a fix for this and should be finished in a few weeks.
If that's the case I may hold off on replacing the sending unit. I know the motor temp is ok I checked it with a temp gun & after idling in the garage for 20 minutes with ambient temp of 87F upper rad hose read constant 188F