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Is there a way to access the door ajar switch mounting plate that is held in place by the two pop rivets? Both my switches were shot, and when I replaced them, it was clear that the mounting plate that they screw into had broken away from the rivets and was floating free. My guess is, that the aluminum rivets corroded and let the plate break free. The new switches are now just barely snug in the fiberglass hole. They work, but there is no substantial mechanical support for the switches. I don't see any way to get to that mounting plate, and my fear is, that they were installed as the body was being assembled, with no future access.
I have the same problem on my 72 on both doors. I plan on using the access panel in the fenderwell and cutting a slot to get the backing plate in there and then using stainless steel rivets.
Go in through the body mount 3 access hole with a flexible magnet. If that fails, make a new one from a piece of 10 gage or 1/4". I don't know of anyone that is reproducing this part. Use a piece of wire with a small nut on the end to fish it through the center hole and to hold it while you put in new pop rivets. Good luck an be patient. It is a pain in the butt job!
Unk
Hi lb,
Redrdstr72, (he wouldn't say it so I will.... NATIONAL Top Flight Award), came up with a pretty neat way of repairing that switch mounting plate problem.
Check it out! Post #6 in this thread.
Regards,
Alan
Thanks everyone for the great suggestions and links to previous threads. From these, I have a better understanding now. I had pulled the body mount cover and looked inside, but only saw the wires and a small hole, so did not think that area was going to be helpful. The original backing plates are still in there, captured by the wires, so they have not fallen down into the black hole. I will try and retrieve them or buy new ones if needed. I will pull the new switches out and have a go at it again.
Longbro... I saw this and wondered if Ed posted and bam.. the thread was there. If you run into trouble just post back. The brackets we make are made as original, but I must say they are easier to install with the both sides but off instead of one. (see ed's post above). When you cut the other side off it makes it easier to feed through the hole.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; May 19, 2013 at 12:02 PM.
I revisited the door ajar switches and here is what I found. Turns out, the LH switch backing plate was still riveted in place, so it turned out to be no problem.
The RH switch backing plate was still there and loose, but captured by the wires. I was able to pull it tight and drill out the old rivets and install new ones, without removing the plate. The threads where the switch screws in were pretty rusty, so I ran a tap through it and it all went together well. Thanks again for all the help.