bbcngineer

Folks,
I don't know much about the prep of a vette for paint or the process. Once the car is blasted what is next? Is it primer or some other kind of sealer? What is a ballpark number for getting from stripped to finished paint?
Kevin

markids77

Try not to blast your car. Many refinishers will not touch a soda blasted vehicle and there are several paint manufacturers who will refuse warranty on a car so prepared. It is not the preferred method to strip a C3.

Without a detailed inspection of a "bare naked" shell there is no way anyone can tell you with any certainty how many hours; hence how may dollars you will be into the repair, refinish and perfection of your car. Call it somewhere between 3000 and 30,000???

Your expectations of just how the finished job should look also play a critical part in what the job will cost. A 100 point lacquer job will differ from a 96 point urethane or a "show quality" candy pearl with ghost flames.

Put up some photos of the car as it is now, define your expectations from the finished product, and tell us how much you have to spend... we'll edumacate you.

LannyL81

I was talked out of soda blasting my '81 due to paint issues. Instead I am using a combination of razor blade, fiberglass stripper and sanding to get all the paint off.

Soda blasting is quicker....but suggest finding a painter first and asking if there are any problems with using soda blasting.

FYI...the razor blade method worked quite well along with a heat gun, came off in strips. There are areas that this did not work, but will be using the fiberglass stripper in these.

Alan 71

Hi Kevin,
Once all the old paint is off the car it's condition can be assessed. It's really only at that point that a price can be determined.
The greatest portion of a repaint's cost is the preparation and the choice of materials to be used.
Many cars that don't appear to need body work do. The paint hides NOTHING, so how good a paint job looks and how long it lasts depends on how expertly the preparation was done.
How good a paint job do want?
$3000-$10,000 ?
Regards,
Alan

bbcngineer

Thanks folks. I am looking at purchasing a project car that has already been soda blasted. I am asking all of these questions to try to figure out how much to pay for this project car and still be upright in the end. It has much of the work done like the motor is a base 350 bored 030 over and is all new. M20 has been rebuilt. New brakes master cylinder and brake lines. All new suspension bushings. New fuel lines. U joints have all been replaced in half and drive shafts. Needs paint interior and assembly. Car is drivable now. I figure the car to be worth 20k when done so I can't afford to pay much for it. Your thoughts?
Kevin

markids77

It is a convertible but what year? Does it have A/C? Miles? How bad is whatever interior it has now? Again, what do you expect from your finished project: daily driver... weekend cruiser... trailer queen showpiece?

jnb5101

I figure the car to be worth 20k when done so I can't afford to pay much for it. Your thoughts?
Kevin[/QUOTE]

double check your numbers. unless this car is special (matching numbers, etc.) you may be very optimistic in the value of the finished car.

dochorsepower

I know it's always wise to keep perspective on costs but don't expect a Corvette to be a profit positive venture. You just have to love it.

bbcngineer

72 convertible. Matching number far from special. Base 350, M20 4 speed, power windows no ac 58,000 miles. I don't expect a huge profit, but I can't be way upside down either. You guys don't think its worth 20 K done?
Kevin

jnb5101

lesson number 1: it's going to cost at least half again as much as you think to finish the car.
lesson number 2: it's going to sell for a lot less than you think it's worth.
lesson number 3: buy the car (as long as there aren't any rust issues), fix it up, drive the hell out of it and have fun. don't worry about making money, because you won't.

John Ulrich

markids77

You will be upside down even if you can buy the running, driving, mostly mechanically restored base car for $5K which I somehow doubt. Perhaps if you were to do all the work yourself you might still come in under 20 large if you reuse all the trim and find no major gremlins in the closet. I read this like it still needs detailing the frame (material 500?), tires ($600?), a top ($600?), a paint job entailing an as yet determined amount of repair and renovation, and (just for the sake of argument) 1500 to 2K in just interior parts. Let's say you go top shelf on the paint and spend $3500 on materials. Add 3K for incidentals like missing hardware, upgrading things like the steering wheel, perhaps some new door handls and locks, a couple rechromed exterior bits, new weatherstripping etc. and you can see that if you have to pony up pro labor rates for all of this you will lose at resale.

bbcngineer

Yup I am thinking the number is right around 5K. Is this unrealistic?
Kevin

markids77

There's no way for us to tell you that. We have no photos, no receipts for work already completed, no timetable for what was done when and how long it has been sitting, no feel for whether the seller is full of it or on the level. Heck, we don't even know where the car is located and that has a significant bearing on the value as it changes with region.

Is the car advertised for sale locally? Has the owner indicated it might be for sale to you? Has the owner given you any indication what he/she might deem a reasonable price for the car? Is the title for the vehicle clear and unencumbered? Is there a title at all????

Need more input from you.

bbcngineer

Thanks guys,
I think I have the info I was looking for. I will go take a look at the car and better evaluate the situation. Your experience has been helpful.
Kevin

leadfoot4

Not to hijack the thread, but I though the issues with soda blasting and paint compatibility was a chemical reaction thing with steel cars....