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When I was in college, a buddy had an old Plymouth. He pulled the thermostat out of it, against my recommendation. A year later, the engine was burning a quart of oil per every 100 miles!
"Parts left out cost nothing and pose no service problems."
If the factory put it there, they had a good reason to do so.
Keep the thermostat.
Last edited by gcusmano74; May 28, 2013 at 10:38 AM.
Never underestimate the power of the age old belief that one person sitting under a shade tree can single handedly out-engineer GM and all other manufactures combined.
It starts with thinking 'stupid OEMs' and goes downhill from there.
It amazes me how long these cars last despite what people do to them.
Even better when all the "stupid OEMs" are thinking in unison on the subject... cars had thermostats even when emissions weren't a concern. Hmm. What does it mean???
Even better when all the "stupid OEMs" are thinking in unison on the subject... cars had thermostats even when emissions weren't a concern. Hmm. What does it mean???
It's clearly a conspiracy plot. That's even worse than all of them being stupid.
That's exactly what I am going with, I was going to machine a restrictor orifice to go under the neck but I have an old thermostat I will run it through the glass beader take out the pill and use it. There is never much winter here in south Georgia and I all I drive it for is fun so if it gets cold I will drive something else
That will work just fine. I also have Dewitts with a 16" fan. Fan is set to come on at 200 and off at 185.. Car will run for 6-7 minutes to bring temp up to 170-180. I'm no engineer, but I'm sure that is ok. Drove over 100 miles yesterday non stop,temp stays at 185-200. Again, I'm not an engineer, but I'm sure its ok..
Last edited by 77C34SPD; May 29, 2013 at 06:38 AM.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
A couple things come to mind,
The AFR changes over 2 to 3 points with temp changes. When you crank your car at ambient tmep the AFR is lean, very lean, the mixture gets more rich with temp. I've seen the AFR start at 16:1 at crank up and settle at 13.5:1 after warm up (190*). Not sure if your carb is the original or if its been replaced and tuned for your car but its something to think about.
At around 40 mph the air flow is sufficient enough to cool the water to the point that the fans will turn off if everything is in place and working correctly.
As far as combustion efficiency goes a consistent temp would be best.
There are problems reported with the newer Mr. Gasket thermostats. They are a Robertshaw design that is supposed to fail in the open position. I am currently running them in a '69 429 LTD, a '71 429SCJ Mustang and my '77. So far no problems. I get them at Auto Zone in the engine dress up section. I will leave the decision to run without one to you. mike...
Yelp... had Mr G stat and it failed - closed position- with only 400 miles on it. I installed a fail safe stat and so far no issues.
Your fans will most likely come on about 5-10 degrees higher than what the fan switch is rated at since the stat is in the intake and the fan switch is on the rad. Mr Dewitt has confirmed this on a few threads. The fan switch has a +/- 5-10 degree diff, typically its a + degrees
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
one other thing;
Howard Stewart (the original owner of Stewart Components) has documented that the system needs to run at the highest pressure possible for best cooling, also helps eliminate hot spots.
The T-stat is the orifice that separates the high and low pressure side. Without the T-stat the system will operate at the lowest pressure.
That will work just fine. I also have Dewitts with a 16" fan. Fan is set to come on at 185 and off at 200.. Car will run for 6-7 minutes to bring temp up to 170-180. I'm no engineer, but I'm sure that is ok. Drove over 100 miles yesterday non stop,temp stays at 185-200. Again, I'm not an engineer, but I'm sure its ok..
that's what I was thinking the fans will hold the engine at a constant temp just like a thermostat would they will cycle on and off just like the themostat would cycle open and closed and as for the quick warm up I don't think heating the radiator water right along with the block water would add more than 3 or 4 minutes to the warm up time
The AFR changes over 2 to 3 points with temp changes. When you crank your car at ambient tmep the AFR is lean, very lean, the mixture gets more rich with temp. I've seen the AFR start at 16:1 at crank up and settle at 13.5:1 after warm up (190*). Not sure if your carb is the original or if its been replaced and tuned for your car but its something to think about.
At around 40 mph the air flow is sufficient enough to cool the water to the point that the fans will turn off if everything is in place and working correctly.
As far as combustion efficiency goes a consistent temp would be best.
By not having a T-stat the temp will fluctuate
Neal
I built up a 383 with a comp cams XE-274 H with 2.02 port matched heads and an Edelbrock Performer carb and intake that I have jetted and changed step up rods to work at sea level and headers. I used to fly a Cessna 310 with manual wastegate turbochargers and once I was at cruise altitude I could open the gates and bring the engines back to sea level and watch the EGT temps peak and then back off about 50 degrees of lean and those engines ran great way past the TBO time
Last edited by Skip Burney; May 28, 2013 at 11:13 PM.
Howard Stewart (the original owner of Stewart Components) has documented that the system needs to run at the highest pressure possible for best cooling, also helps eliminate hot spots.
The T-stat is the orifice that separates the high and low pressure side. Without the T-stat the system will operate at the lowest pressure.
Neal
That's what it's all about.
The temp your sending unit sees is nothing compared to the valve bridge. You really want the pressure.