this forum has a pant and body section, with a wealth of info

 

Yes there is a lot good stuff there....And a lot of what I have read I have put into practice, because I did not know, heard or shown the reason behind the why & how of something. As the paint rep. told me, He gets these reps in from back east, they do not understand the temps we get here or the climate. When he asks for reducers that work in 100 + temps they can not help. When I called the gal at Evercoat she said to reduce it 5-10% with Acetone, That just did not make since I did not have thick problem I have temp problem. Although thinning would aid in allowing it to flow under cooler temps, it would cause the paint to flash/dry quicker and not flow in the higher temps I am in, the can states dry time 5-10 min. between coats @ 75 deg. I have not seen 75 deg. since Dec. Since the Evercoat is a filler it needed to flow. I am having a problem with drying before it hits the hood, it ***** up when it hits the surface and looks like I through a bunch of real fin sand on top of the material. When the rep. from Evercoat said to put it in the refrigerator to cool it down before spraying, I was skeptical, but It did work, along with the wetting of the floor to add moisture and painting vary early in the AM. As soon as the slower reducer gets here I can spray the sealer. Buff it and move on to the color, Then I can clear coat the parts that were set aside. Bring the car inside to finish it.

 

Looks like the hood have been silicone contaminated to me
If that have happened then you get that "peel" look in the paint

Buy some fisheye/silicone eliminator that you mix in the paint before spraying the hood

 

You are going about this in a very organized, methodical manner. Having the gun closer to the surface which reduces the distance it must travel will help it hit the car wet. You may have to speed your stroke up a bit to compensate. Also, are you running the fluid adjustment on the gun wide open or quite near that? More paint in the pattern will flow better as well. My 77 was painted on a 90+ degree day as well... it required a bit of improvisation on my part to get the paint to flow... more reducer is NOT the answer by the way... trust me.

EDIT: To those who recommend 90PSI in the air line... most guns I have used recommend never exceeding 75PSI inlet pressure as it can damage the gun's delicate internal parts. However, increasing gun pressure also increases fluid flow and can help get the paint out faster... which means wetter. Try another 3 or so PSI at the gun regulator next time you spray; I think it will aid your result. Experiment a bit but remember more air means more overspray.

 

just a question, if you have a regulator before the gun, set at 25-35psi, how would the 90 psi get to the gun?

 

I have a pair of Sharpe brand regulators I got back in the late 70s which limit airflow when the trigger is pulled, but at zero airflow pressurize the gun to line pressure. There's a "burst" of line pressure air each time the trigger is pulled. I have formed the habit of allowing the gun to blow air continuously as I paint to avoid that burst. Newer regulators might be more sophisticated?

 

Markids77: When I sprayed Evercoat I set the compressor regulator to 60psi and the gun regulator to 25-30 with medium fan pattern and fluid set to almost full open (closed > full open 5.5 turns) about 5 turns. Gun type it Auto guzman?
When spraying the hood it was laying down flat which is hard for me to reach across,(have considered hanging it up) there by one side is close the other farther away.
When I used the Medallion refinish non-sanding sealer with RS-777 k2 Activator ( too fast for the heat, now know I need the RS-778 slower) The compressor was set at 60 psi with gun set not to exceed 25 psi as I was told by paint rep., but it balled up creating the texture I could not sand out, not with out taking it all the way down. I thought the paint would spread out and cover the textured surface.( this due to lack of experience) Auto paint is not the same as house paint or spray cans which my limited experience with spray guns. When I make a stroke with the gun I start off with the tip pointed away from the surface as I begin my stroke. Allowing the burst of air to dissipate. When it sprayed leaving the dry sand look, I started going over everything I could think of that I may have done wrong, rechecking air pressure, gun settings, Mix ratio, and on, until I took the gun apart and found I had not changed out the tip from 1.3 back to 2.0. I had been spraying with the WandaBase color coat, 40psi at the tank, max 6-8 psi at the gun.[I think I mentioned this before] JUST PLAIN OLD INEXPERENCE ON MY PART.
The WandaBase HS color coat used Valspar 171HP fast reducer which needs to be slower for the larger areas I will be painting.
I hope someone learns from this as I have.

 

You should never trigger off the air while spraying, just the fluid, while moving as fast as you can. My Binks regulators keep the airline at regulated pressure, in use or not.

Don't expect the G2 to lay flat like final paint coats in high heat. It It has to flow enough to fill sand scratches,and not just bridge them.
Painting late at nite gives more time before temps rise. Different than baking.
Most people use a 2 or larger tip for the G2. You may want to try using a viscosity cup. Well worth it until you gain the experience to eyeball your mix.
You last pic with the G2 looks good.

Painting here at >90 is pretty common.

 

with my smaller compressor, 25 gal., running it at 90 and doing the fine tuning at the gun keeps the volume up, something I learned on this forum and other painting sites. I've done that with the older style guns to start ,and now with the HVLP guns. Seems to work

 

Up Date on my paint learning......

I was able to get a good layer of primer, block sanded to 600,applied first few coats of color, good result, applied several more coats to bring it up to color tone, looks good
Thanks for all the advise.

 

Pictures?

 

Sure:
http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/78...acebd.jpg.html

Enjoy

 

I can't tell if that is a metallic. If it is you want to spray the pieces in the orientation that they hang on the car. Had just such a color on one of my cars and sprayed the doors flat.
Big do -over!

 

Yes..it is an orange with gold pearl..I have 21 pieces..thought I would paint them, close to the tone I want, then do the body and then attaché them and blend them together on the car and then spray the clear.
anyway that is the plan.
thanks for the info/advise.

 

I think I have the hood close enough to move on to the front bumper

http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/78...df09e.jpg.html

I will have work on this area a little, before I spray the body.

http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/78...047b7.jpg.html