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After reading another post on here I see that soda blasting is not the best way to go to strip a car. I thought that was only true on metal cars and not fiberglass cars as I read on the other post. Anyone experienced with this that has the correct information?
What I'm asking is can you soda blast a fiberglass car without any problems with the paint finish/adhesion. I've heard there is a reaction when used on metal cars but not on fiberglass. It's not an operator problem, but a chemical or electrical reaction of some sort that some engineer came up with. I can't imagine it has any effect at all but wanted to know before starting.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------MIKE, Here's what I read that gave me concern
Try not to blast your car. Many refinishers will not touch a soda blasted vehicle and there are several paint manufacturers who will refuse warranty on a car so prepared. It is not the preferred method to strip a C3.
Without a detailed inspection of a "bare naked" shell there is no way anyone can tell you with any certainty how many hours; hence how may dollars you will be into the repair, refinish and perfection of your car. Call it somewhere between 3000 and 30,000???
Your expectations of just how the finished job should look also play a critical part in what the job will cost. A 100 point lacquer job will differ from a 96 point urethane or a "show quality" candy pearl with ghost flames.
Put up some photos of the car as it is now, define your expectations from the finished product, and tell us how much you have to spend... we'll edumacate you.
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Last edited by markids77; 05-25-2013 at 09:41 PM. Reason: e button sticks
Soda leaves a film on your body which must be either neutralized and/or removed by mechanical means depending on which source you use to determine the suitability of blasting your Corvette. This probably works quite well on a metal bodied vehicle as that film retards flash rust which is a boon to those who cannot spend the time to blast, wash with whatever potion the blaster recommends, dry, sand and seal the body the same day it is blasted.
Fiberglass however is porous by nature, and blasting by whatever means opens those pores which are force fed the media under presure until they are chockablock saturated with it. Soda is finer in grain than many other media and it is my opinion that successfully neutralizing and/or removing that packed film is where the trouble lies. Why blast to an apparently smooth, clean surface if you have to grind the result with 80 or 36 grit paper to remove the film? Google soda blasting cars and you can read about it for yourself.
As to warranty, my researches show that SPI, PPG, Karcher and Sherwin Williams will void warranty coverage for soda blasted vehicles. There are several other manufacturers who stated they would greatly prefer you use another suitable media if you must blast your car. My data is several years old now as I did this search while researching how to strip my 77... if you want concrete answers from your chosen paint manufacturer just drop them an e-mail and they will answer your question direct from the source.
Last edited by markids77; May 28, 2013 at 10:04 PM.
Reason: correction
Thanks for clearing that up for me. I just happen to see your comments on another post and wanted to look into it since I'm getting ready to strip my body. Everything you have said makes sense to me, why blast and then sand to get rid of the residue. I'll search "soda blasting cars" and read up on it. I wll also talk to the PPG rep to make sure, but I really don't want to soda blast if there's a possibility of having problems later.
For me...I ALWAYS stick with the time proven methods of paint removal. I do not "buy into" new methods that have not yet seen the "test of time". I can not afford to re-do a Corvette because "some guy" THINKS it is the best way and can safe me time and $$$$.
Anyway ...stripping paint is not that bad of a job...messy yes...but not that bad. It is all in the procedure.