Headlight help needed
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 441
Likes: 1
From: Windsor Ontario
Headlight help needed
For the first time this year I turned on my headlights, when I did the right side came up very slowly, the left didn't move. They worked last fall when I put it away.
1) How much vacuum should there be at the main vacuum line that connects to the reservoir pipe? This is the line coming from the "Y" splitter.
2) how much vacuum should there be at the lines that connect to the front & back of the actuators?
I obviously have low vacuum, but need vto find out where I'm losing it.
Any help would be great.
1) How much vacuum should there be at the main vacuum line that connects to the reservoir pipe? This is the line coming from the "Y" splitter.
2) how much vacuum should there be at the lines that connect to the front & back of the actuators?
I obviously have low vacuum, but need vto find out where I'm losing it.
Any help would be great.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,333
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Some good references to checking the vac-system here
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...tem-works.html
Includes some troubleshooting steps.
Chances are your vacuum system is still making the proper vacuum and you've lost a seal or split a line
M
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...tem-works.html
Includes some troubleshooting steps.
Chances are your vacuum system is still making the proper vacuum and you've lost a seal or split a line
M
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,333
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
It's running off your engine so it "should" be in the 18-20 range, minus a few inches for loss in the system so around 15"
That being said, mine only runs about 15-16 at idle and they work fine (a little slower) so they are down around the 12-13: range.
I've seen people say they (headlights) will run down to 10-11" but I've never seen that personally
HIH
Mooser
That being said, mine only runs about 15-16 at idle and they work fine (a little slower) so they are down around the 12-13: range.
I've seen people say they (headlights) will run down to 10-11" but I've never seen that personally
HIH
Mooser
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 441
Likes: 1
From: Windsor Ontario
all components were new 4-5 years ago
I am going to test the vacuum at the intake
then test the check valve
then vacuum at the reservoir
then into the relays
then out of the relays
then finally at the actuators.
that should cover it.
I am going to test the vacuum at the intake
then test the check valve
then vacuum at the reservoir
then into the relays
then out of the relays
then finally at the actuators.
that should cover it.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 441
Likes: 1
From: Windsor Ontario
I found one of my actuator canister might be bypassing.
When I close the headlights the red hose sucks at the back of the canister, but I get suction through the front (green) hose connector.
Is this right? Or is it junk?
What is happening is I turn on the headlights and the left headlight comes up, but I lose all vacuum to the hose feeding the right relay coming off the reservoir.
When I close the headlights the red hose sucks at the back of the canister, but I get suction through the front (green) hose connector.
Is this right? Or is it junk?
What is happening is I turn on the headlights and the left headlight comes up, but I lose all vacuum to the hose feeding the right relay coming off the reservoir.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,333
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
If the seal on the front (shaft) is leaking, it will prevent the headlight from getting pulled up. Disconnect the rear hose and Pinch off the front hose and raise/lower the headlight manually. If it moves (easily) it's sucking air in through the shaft seal.
Fairly easy fix
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...new-seals.html
Check the main diaphragm (inside the can) by disconnecting the front hose and pinching off the hose coming out the rear (engine side) of the actuator. Then manually lower (or raise) the headlight.
If the seal is good it will prevent (resist) the piston from moving either way.
Mooser
Fairly easy fix
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...new-seals.html
Check the main diaphragm (inside the can) by disconnecting the front hose and pinching off the hose coming out the rear (engine side) of the actuator. Then manually lower (or raise) the headlight.
If the seal is good it will prevent (resist) the piston from moving either way.
Mooser
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Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,259
Likes: 154
From: Deplorableville Nebraska
If you can pull the actuating rod out of the actuator with the rear port blocked, I'm sorry to report that your actuator is toast, a little on the burnt side.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,322
Likes: 141
From: Green Valley Arizona
Just to hijack this thread a bit:
What color "should" the actuators be?
The new ones are a gold color....what was the original metal color?
Now back to your regularly scheduled posting......
What color "should" the actuators be?
The new ones are a gold color....what was the original metal color?
Now back to your regularly scheduled posting......
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,847
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
We always tell people to test from the rear of the actuator first. If you can't hold vacuum on the rear port then the diaphragm between the front and rear is bad. If it holds on the rear, and not on the front then the front rod seal is leaking.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 441
Likes: 1
From: Windsor Ontario
Ok, I'm back, still have a problem
I got a new actuator, hooked up the red (as per diagram above) vacuum line with the rod already pulled in (headlight closed) but am getting vacuum from the green port. This tells me the actuator is bypassing internally, am I correct? I believe this should not leak. When I plug the red port with my finger it is very hard to pull out the rod, that says no leak.
So what gives? Could it be a small leak the opens when vacuum is applied?
I got a new actuator, hooked up the red (as per diagram above) vacuum line with the rod already pulled in (headlight closed) but am getting vacuum from the green port. This tells me the actuator is bypassing internally, am I correct? I believe this should not leak. When I plug the red port with my finger it is very hard to pull out the rod, that says no leak.
So what gives? Could it be a small leak the opens when vacuum is applied?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 441
Likes: 1
From: Windsor Ontario
Ok, I returned the 2nd new actuator that was sucking through the green port when vacuum was applied to the red port. The guy said I must have a vacuum leak someplace, I said @yea, the new actuator" he gave me another one from a different supplier, and it works. He must have gotten a shipment from a bad run.
Vacuum applied to red port, NO sucking through the green, go figure
Vacuum applied to red port, NO sucking through the green, go figure