LoneStarV

That's Joe Inama's resto mod. It's a work of art. What was the guy expecting? Did he test drive it first?

Scratch

Nope, purchased off ebay. Never went to look, drive or anything. I think he thought it would handle like a luxury something...
I thought the car was great, I don't know if it's worth $115K great, but if that is the going price for a vehicle like that, then I guess it's worth every penny. The car is awesome.

Faster Rat

What does a restomod have to do with the OP's thread?

WhiteKnight

I owned a 72 LT-1 for 3 years and loved it. I loved it even more after I dropped in a 500hp 406 stroker. My 72 was all manual and no ac, 4-spd and 3.73 rear end. Nice in the fall, winter and spring ... not so nice in TX during 100+ days. I drove mine almost every weekend as long as I could stand the heat. I sold my 72 a month ago and I miss it but not the hole in my wallet. There is always something that needs attention on a 40 yr old car; especially if it hasn't been totally restored. If you are a fairly competent mechanic and want to work on your car that's a good thing. If not, be prepared to dole out the $$ every now and then. I actually enjoyed driving my 72 more than I did my 03 Z06. There was a definite COOL factor that just can't compare to driving a C5 or C6.

I will probably own another C3 chrome bumper down the road. If and when I do I will buy a fully restored car that's got everything I'm looking for. That can take a while to find. Finding what you want in good condition for a fair price ... that is not an easy task.

If I were you I would go for it. Hey, you only live once ... you might as well enjoy!

Scratch

well it is a chrome bumper car, but more for a view on purchasing about the ride quality versus is it worth it.

jr9170

I have owned my 70 454 since 1999 and can stare at it in the garage for hours.Driving it still gives me a smile after all these years...

SonOfGaladriel

Got some good news and some bad news last night. The bad news is the owner found a soft spot on the frame back by the rear wheel that turned into a 50 cent piece diameter hole as he chiseled away the rust with a hammer and screw driver to find solid steel.
Good news is he didn't find any other areas and that he was honest about it. He won't sell me the car until he has the frame professionally inspected and repaired.
He reports that the VIN number on the title and the frame reads exactly as the new VIN tag. The state police verified that the frame is indeed stamped with a 6 as the second digit. He truly believes that the frame was stamped with an upside down '9' at the factory. He has all the documentation from the DMV and state police showing this car to be a legit '69 corvette.
He has also lowered his price to $12K.
So, it will be awhile before the frame is repaired. He will call me when it is ready for another inspection. I'm trying to find someone who knows these cars to go with me for this next visit.

LoneStarV

Interesting. Now you know you have rust. You need to check the bird cage VERY carefully. Take the panels off starting at the top of the windshield all the way down to the floor and check closely. Fixing a rusty birdcage AINT cheap. Find a C3 heavy near you to look at the car.

martaroony

Hey S.O.G , This to me smacks of an owner trying to buy some time as your starting to ask the hard questions he doesn't want you asking.
You cant tell me that after owning the car for that long, and doing the work to it that he claims , that he wouldn't know this car from the inside out. I would .
And if this rust is an issue, then there will be more , as there was no paint on the inside of the chassis.

Now I'm certainly no expert like a few fellows on here , But in my limited experience , if you choose to go forward on this car, and it may be the good points out way this VIN issue.
Then there's one thing I would do,
There is suppose to be 2x 8 digit vin derivatives stamped on the chassis rail.
(please experts chime in if I'm wrong)
1 under the drivers door sill, and 1 under the rear drivers wheel arch.
Highly unlikely to get both wrong with a upside down "9" or "6".

( sorry I just reread your post the 6 and 9 mix up isn't in this chassis number )

Now the one under the door sill panel is very challenging to find or view at the best of times , but you can do it with the body on.
Now this is what I did to check my chassis numbers.

Firstly you'll need a remote inspection camera.
Secondly, it is easier with the rocker panel off, however you could probley do it with it still on , if it was on a hoist.

Now, I've included pictures just so you can see exactly where to start looking.



This is where you'll find it on the top of the chassis,(blue Tape with arrow) written front to back, 8 digits.


And this is what you'll see.


Remembering it will start with a "9" for 69 next is a 'S" for St Louis, then your 6 production number.

Hope this helps in some way , Regards Marty.

SonOfGaladriel

Thank you. I'll see if I can rent one of those cameras for my next visit. I definitely will check the numbers myself on the next visit. My uncle, who lives just an hour away from this car, knows a mechanic that rebuilds hot rods and restores classics. He is going to get me in touch with him. I'll see what he needs to make the trip with me to help me more fully inspect the car.

WhiteKnight

I would walk away from this one but find another one in better shape and go for it. Just cause the price is low doesn't mean it's a good deal. You could end up spending way more down the road than you think you are saving now. Better yet, don't walk ... run.

qwank

this thing turned into a $3,000 parts car real fast

rafalc