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Old Jun 26, 2013 | 06:15 PM
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Default Start-Up Problems

1969, L71, stock, original, great shape, recently rebuilt K66 transistor ignition. Very little problems until 2 weeks ago. Killed the battery twice trying to start up. Won't turn over. Tried pumping gas pedal, setting choke, finally have had to jump it to avoid killing new battery. Took off air cleaner to allow more air. It has become very temperamental and unreliable. Parked it in town for 45 minutes, came out and it wouldnt turn, tried a jump, no good, went and got a new battery, barely got'er going. What're your thoughts? Need a new starter?
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Old Jun 26, 2013 | 06:25 PM
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clean all the grounds......
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 10:14 AM
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and check the alternator output
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 10:18 AM
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If its not turning over reliably you need to go through all the battery cable connections. It sounds like you have a bad connection on the battery cable or main engine ground.
If it doesn't even click it could still be a ground, but just as likely in the start circuit, lockout switch etc.
If it turns over but won't start, look for ignition or fuel issues, vac leak or the like
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 11:31 AM
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Is it cranking over and just not firing up ? Your post is somewhat confusing ..

If it is SIXFOOTER has your answer in his last statement
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
If its not turning over reliably you need to go through all the battery cable connections. It sounds like you have a bad connection on the battery cable or main engine ground.
If it doesn't even click it could still be a ground, but just as likely in the start circuit, lockout switch etc.
If it turns over but won't start, look for ignition or fuel issues, vac leak or the like
Thanks for all your replies. It is cranking but not firing. Generally I would pump it 2 or 3 times to prime it and it would fire right up. Now, it cranks and cranks, using up the battery until it just clicks. I dont think it is a battery connection problem since its getting plenty of juice, but the cranking and cranking consumes the battery quickly. I'm always relucatant to pump it too much and flood it, but maybe it needs more fuel.
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Old Jun 27, 2013 | 03:37 PM
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Does your transistor ignition require the full 12 volts like an HEI? Or is it designed to work at the reduced voltage of the old points ignition. Maybe a voltage level problem?
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by NEHI Orange
1969, L71, stock, original, great shape, recently rebuilt K66 transistor ignition. Very little problems until 2 weeks ago. Killed the battery twice trying to start up. Won't turn over. Tried pumping gas pedal, setting choke, finally have had to jump it to avoid killing new battery. Took off air cleaner to allow more air. It has become very temperamental and unreliable. Parked it in town for 45 minutes, came out and it wouldnt turn, tried a jump, no good, went and got a new battery, barely got'er going. What're your thoughts? Need a new starter?
check the distributor cap may have a slight crack
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 08:19 PM
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Cranks and Cranks means the start circuit battery and grounds are good.
Now check for power to the ignition circuit, fuel to the carb, fuel in the accelerator circuit. Have you done static timing? What is it set at?
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Old Jun 30, 2013 | 09:53 PM
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Need the four elements in order to fire.
1. fuel
2. spark
3. compression
4. exhaust
One of these missing creates problems
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Old Jul 1, 2013 | 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by STINGRAY1WORD
Need the four elements in order to fire.
1. fuel
2. spark
3. compression
4. exhaust
One of these missing creates problems
1. To check for fuel, take off the air cleaner and look down the throat of the carb (you may need to hold the choke plate open if the engine is cold, if the choke is closed and the engine is warm you probably have found your problem) move the linkage on the driver's side of the carb and see if you get two streams of gas. They should look like a squirt gun stream.

2. To check for spark, pull a spark plug wire off one of the plugs, insert a screwdriver where the plug would go and hold the screwdriver about 1/8 inch from a ground (the exhaust manifold should work) while somebody cranks the engine (stay clear of any moving parts). You should see a spark.

When a car doesn't start, you rarely get to number 3 and almost never to number 4.
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