Bent frame 73 coupe
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: huntington wv
Bent frame 73 coupe
Trying to figure out what to do with my resto project I took the body off tonight to replace the body mounts only to discover a twisted mess that was supposed to be my frame, we had suspected the front to be a little tweaked but not the whole thing. I'm at a loss for what to do with it at this point. I don't want to put a bunch of money into the frame when I still have most of the car to work on and buy lots of parts for. Do I just part it out and take this as a loss or do I try and replace the frame with a different one. If so what years would fit? Or do I take it to a body shop and probably pay them some crazy amount of money to try and fix mine?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
Pictures would be helpful, better able to provide an opinion based on how bad the frame appears to be, what condition the rest of the car is in.
Is this a 'numbers match' car or NOM? Convertible or Coupe? Any significant rust? What options.
Many factors to consider when you as whether you should put money into fixing it or parting it out.
Is this a 'numbers match' car or NOM? Convertible or Coupe? Any significant rust? What options.
Many factors to consider when you as whether you should put money into fixing it or parting it out.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: huntington wv
Im located in northwest ohio , I will post some pics of the frame they will be hard to see what I can see but I can tell you the back of the frame has about 1inch difference from side to side, when you cross the frame im getting about 1/4 inch difference in them also one of the motor mounts is clearly pushed. Also when you put the car on jack stands it will sit on three out of the 4. The frame is rust free and in great shape besides the trueness.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,303
Likes: 14
From: Lynn MA
I would have it trued up.....if solid frame as you mention, likely will be worth it
If it is going to be a performance/driver type build and not a NCRS showpiece you can also consider adding gussets, reinforcements etc to make it even more stout. My friends dad, Jerry Lischke from Newburyport MA built is 63/64 from a few different cars and when apart he welded every seam, among other mods....the welding of the seams really turned it into quite the road race car
If it is going to be a performance/driver type build and not a NCRS showpiece you can also consider adding gussets, reinforcements etc to make it even more stout. My friends dad, Jerry Lischke from Newburyport MA built is 63/64 from a few different cars and when apart he welded every seam, among other mods....the welding of the seams really turned it into quite the road race car
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
One caveat to watch out for. If the frame was severly bent, it may be possible the body repairs were done to fit the frame. Getting the frame back to specs may create issues with the fit of the body. I'd look closely at the body, see what the extent of repairs was, how much was repaired. This could turn into a much larger project if the repairs were done poorly.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 256
Likes: 1
From: Burbank, Ca
With respect to the OP, I too have a frame in question. Is there any other threads that has documented well how to go about checking if the frame is bent and or what measurements should be. Or is it all the logical stuff, Measure side to side, across X, measure up from the ground. Check A Arms, Amount of shims to align, Replaced ball joints, Sharper kink where the frame beds and widens for the bird cage, Cracks. Ive been told that these frame where never perfect when new. Hopefully this will add to the conversation. Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
A local shop told me this is the area where the frame usually bends in a collision. There shouldn't be a sharp kink or cracks. The charts with dimensions for all years frames are pretty easy to find. You'd need a reasonably flat surface to make some measurements.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,865
Likes: 1
From: I may be getting old but I refuse to grow up
With respect to the OP, I too have a frame in question. Is there any other threads that has documented well how to go about checking if the frame is bent and or what measurements should be. Or is it all the logical stuff, Measure side to side, across X, measure up from the ground. Check A Arms, Amount of shims to align, Replaced ball joints, Sharper kink where the frame beds and widens for the bird cage, Cracks. Ive been told that these frame where never perfect when new. Hopefully this will add to the conversation. Thanks
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
I have a 73 frame in my 72. I had to drill an extra hole and elongate another one for the front bumper brackets so you would probably have to do that also if you used a pre-73 frame. A 74 frame is identical to a 73 if you cut off the plates at the back that held the 74 rear bumper.
Rick B.
Rick B.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Cocoa FL
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,071
Likes: 147
From: S Nevada
If it was me, I'd find a local frame shop and let them have a look. A new frame will set you back probably as much as straightening yours, if it's even possible. That would save you the headache of finding a used frame that has the wrong vin stamped on it. The frames have a vin stamp on top of the left side upper rail just forward of the rear wheel kick up.