When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Unless someone on this forum can help me I afraid I might have to live with this. I've tried every adjustment I know of & have read numerous postings & articles regarding adjustment of the headlight pods but nothing seems to work. The attached photos are the best I've been able too achieve for the closed position & as you can see the front needs to come down another 1/4". I am hoping someone can tell me what I am missing.
try adjusting the length of the actuator bolt. if it's too far extended(threaded out too much) the vacuum can will bottom out and prevent full movement(either up or down).
What year? I'm guessing a 73 based on your username.
Maybe you have a pair of headlights that don't belong on the car....I think there is a difference in size, mounting and/or adjustment on the newer headlights (74-up?) that don't work correctly on the older C3s (and probably vise-versa).
In the center of the linkage there is a 1/2 in. bolt head that is accessible from underneath the assembly. This is the fine adjustment for the height of the leading edge of the door. Is this an adjustment you have tried? Since the back of the door is at correct height jnb5101 may be correct. mike...
The headlight assembly also is supported by a U shaped frame. That is attached to the front area by several bolts. Putting shims between the frame and the U shaped assembly can also move the headlight assembly down.
try adjusting the length of the actuator bolt. if it's too far extended(threaded out too much) the vacuum can will bottom out and prevent full movement(either up or down).
I've threaded the Clevis as far down onto the rod as it will go.
What year? I'm guessing a 73 based on your username.
Maybe you have a pair of headlights that don't belong on the car....I think there is a difference in size, mounting and/or adjustment on the newer headlights (74-up?) that don't work correctly on the older C3s (and probably vise-versa).
(I see the pic now)
Yes it is a 73 & these are the original headlights.
The headlight assembly also is supported by a U shaped frame. That is attached to the front area by several bolts. Putting shims between the frame and the U shaped assembly can also move the headlight assembly down.
kdf
The headlights mount on top of the front support bar adding shims at this point will make the headlights set higher in the opening.
You might be able to take the pivot screws loose on the side and pick that distance up... I'm not sure.
Here is the video link.
Headlamp Housing Adjustment 68-82
This is Avery informative video & I used it to get the headlight as close as it is. It just seems I've run out of downward adjustment & I am at a loss as to why.
I should have stated this in the original post as I think it is a key point. If I disconnect tne Clevis I can adjust the headlight to the proper height so obviously the stroke of the actuator is too short. As I stated I have threaded the Clevis as far down on the actuator rod as possible but it is still too long. The headlight opens properly & locks into the open position.
This should be a piece of cake. I had the exact issue when I rebuilt my assemblies. Check back to the Willcox video. At 6:40 time frame, there is a slotted bracket held onto the underside of the headlight lid and attached by three bolts. This must be adjusted to about center of the slot the bolts fit into.
Proper adjustment; With the actuator disconnected, and the headlight bucket fully open and locked, apply vacuum to the front of the actuator. The actuator rod should fit into the forward end of slot in the connecting link extended position. If you cannot do this, or you have to push the actuator rod into the actuator to connect it, the slotted three bolt bracket is out of adjustment.
I have a '70, and this came from the chassis service manual. There is a section on "Headlight Panel Adjustment". Your car should be the same. Good luck.........
I should have stated this in the original post as I think it is a key point. If I disconnect tne Clevis I can adjust the headlight to the proper height so obviously the stroke of the actuator is too short. As I stated I have threaded the Clevis as far down on the actuator rod as possible but it is still too long. The headlight opens properly & locks into the open position.
Hi gr8t73,
I recently replaced my actuators with new aftermarket ones. After trying everything I could they would not close all the way...just like yours. I finally cut 1/4" off the end of the actuator rod and that solved the problem. If you did not change anything and they did close properly before, then you have an adjustment problem.
The 3 bolt U shaped bracket is pictured above. It's the one below the rod bellows. You lengthen the travel of the actuator rod by adjusting the bracket farther towards the front of the car.