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Hi v,
The height of the outer rear corner of the roof panel is adjusted by loosening the 2 screws in the plate that has the 'locating wedge' in it.
These screws allow the plate and wedge to move up and down.
Also be sure the wedge is turned properly to allow the receiver in the roof panel to seat fully on the wedge.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Hey Alan, I can only see a small portion of your car, but it looks great from what I can see. Clean weather stripping, chrome strip and new metal clips/brackers, etc.
Hi s,
Thanks!
The parts in the pictures are all the originals.... they were re-chrome plated by Librandi in Middletown, Pa. They do BEAUTIFUL work.
Regards,
Alan
Hi v,
The height of the outer rear corner of the roof panel is adjusted by loosening the 2 screws in the plate that has the 'locating wedge' in it.
These screws allow the plate and wedge to move up and down.
Also be sure the wedge is turned properly to allow the receiver in the roof panel to seat fully on the wedge.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Hi Alan - what about how the tops line up (I hope I'm clear in my question)? One of my panels sits about 1/16th of an inch or less behind the other. Actually lost points at show recently because of this.
Hi j,
The front to rear adjustment is more involved.
All 4 points must be adjusted.
The wedge pin must be turned in or out since this moves the top panel forward or backward. This is where I start.
Then the 2 'tongues' at the center support bar and the pin in the front outer corner must be adjusted so the gap between the rear of the top panel and the front of the halo fiberglass is even all the way across.
Getting really nice even gaps across the back of the panels and down the center between the panels is very possible but does take work.
I make all the adjustments with the roof panels in place and the interior soft trim panel off.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
It also depends on the year of C3 you have. 1978-1982 are different in they only have one latch on the t-top and the adjustment parts are different. If you want a perfect example of a Chrome bumper C3, Alan's is the one to look at.
Hi v,
There is a threaded plate in a clip on the steel birdcage that's on the back side of the fiberglass you see. It might be rusted in place.
Try tapping up and down quite gently with a small hammer to see if you can get the mounting plate to move in it's clip.
The clip is designed to hold the plate in place even with the wedge bolt and 2 screws removed. BUT, at this point be sure to leave 1 of the 3 in place at all times to prevent the rear plate from breaking loose from the clip and dropping down.
I'd remove each of the 3 in sequence (always leaving 1 in place) to see if the plate can be moved.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
Hi j,
The front to rear adjustment is more involved.
All 4 points must be adjusted.
The wedge pin must be turned in or out since this moves the top panel forward or backward. This is where I start.
Then the 2 'tongues' at the center support bar and the pin in the front outer corner must be adjusted so the gap between the rear of the top panel and the front of the halo fiberglass is even all the way across.
Getting really nice even gaps across the back of the panels and down the center between the panels is very possible but does take work.
I make all the adjustments with the roof panels in place and the interior soft trim panel off.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
These are the 4 points:
Hey Alan - as always, thanks for your thorough and detailed answer. The difference is so slight that I may just leave it for now but it's good to know how to correct it!
My gaps are terrible, Alan what is a good gap for the rear panels? I have not tried to tap the adjustment yet spent all day building a new dash for my project. I still have a few days to go. Thanks
Hi v,
The AIM has a sheet entitled 'Body Checking-Front' that shows the factory gap allowances. UPC 11, Sheet A2.
For the coupe roof panels the center gap is noted as .10 to .14 inches and the rear roof panel to halo gap is noted as .16 to .20 inches.
I think having the gaps even through their entire length is just as important, or maybe more important, than the actual gap dimension.
Regards,
Alan
Hi v,
One thing that I forgot mention while talking about the roof panel fit is that there are MANY cars on which the outer rear corner of the roof panel is slightly above, and extends outward beyond, the sharp curve in the halo at that point.
This is really the FIRST thing that needs to be set because it's difficult to move the panel in and down as you begin to set the gaps. It's the wedge pin that sets this roof panel - halo relationship.
Regards,
Alan
I took the wedge out and it is still high so I will need to see if the chrome trim piece below it is not seated correctly. The other side. The picture is very deceiving its about 3/8ths high.
T-Top is very good. Thanks