Ok. Here is the problem.

Car 1971 LS-5

Put a electronic ignition module and flame thrower coil on the car. It still looks stock with only one extra wire. Went to reset the timing...cranked fine. Took it out last Saturday...cranked fine in the garage...got gas...cranked fine...back to house and cranked to leave...cranked fine...ran phenomenal on the highway with no lag (felt like fuel injection response) and got to our first stop about 35 miles up the road to eat breakfast...won't crank. Buddy of mine brought parts up to check it out. Test light and 3 coils later..power on positive side of coil...none in coil plug and none on negative side. Switched back to points after trailering home and a new stronger battery it worked fine.

Got back on the problem yesterday and switched back to EI again with same parts. It cranked the first time like clockwork then she would not crank again. Ran a constant 12 volt wire from wiper fuse to coil and still nothing other than positive side power.

I know there are many of these cars out there with this system. Any ideas on where the best place to start chasing the problem is or what could be causing the no fire issue with the coil? If you have had this problem and corrected I would love to hear from you!!!

Put these same type units on a 55, 56 and 62 Chevy's along with all my friends cars and the work fine. This is the first glass car we have done one on. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Does it work with the EI and the stock coil? Does it work with the points and the flame thrower coil. One or the other is failing when hot.

 

Are you saying it just won't fire up, or it won't crank over at all?

 

Points work fine. EI module will not work. Even tried a new one...no go.

 

Won't fire off. Just cranks over.

 

Check that the ground wire on the point plate is not broken . The aftermarket electronic set up needs a good ground .

Bill

 

Will do! Thanks. I know these unit need a good ground and more voltage but this is getting really strange.

 

I have had the issue before. When converting from points to electronic ignition, the voltage on the stock wire is not 12 volts when running, it is 9 volts because of a resistor wire. The points will only get 12 volts when first starting the engine which is why you are getting the reading of 12 volts. The factory reduces the voltage on the ignition wire below 12 volts while running to prevent from burning up parts in the ignition. Check the voltage while running and it will probably be around 9 or 10 volts. The new ignition should have the full 12 volts all the time to function properly.

 

So what was your solution for getting around this problem. We ran a direct wire from the fuse block to the coil and eliminated the switch wire and still no go. I have a friend who used to do ground checks on boats when they installed electrical components and has a tester for it that we are going to put on the car and see if there is a bad ground somewhere. Any other information would be greatly appreciated!!

 

You dont say what brand Ei unit you put in.
Sounds like your not getting the trigger to fire the coil.
You either have a magnetic induction or a hall sensor type. Whichever it is its not seeing the signal to fire *like when your points open.
Check the gap between the pickup and reluctor or vane

 

Pertronix Ignitor 1181 Solid State Ignition System & a Flame Thrower Coil.

 

Unless they changed their pickup system. They had the ring of magnets you bolt to the underside of the Dist rotor.
Check and see that its not too far away from the pickup module.

I use a different sytem (Breakerless SE from M&H Fab)on my car after having a rough time with the Pertronics.
Long story short, Your digital meter cannot read the voltage from the coil quick enough to get a true reading.
Verify your battery & charging system are putting out 12v minimum.
Last resort Call Pertronics & ask their tech dept for troubleshooting