My New '69 Convertible
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
If folks ask about the 'unique' color combination, just tell them that the "chroma" control on the car is busted. 
And, I agree that re-dying the interior is the simplest way to get the interior to a matching color. Removing the interior is a bit of a challenge...especially the trans tunnel and gauge cluster. But, it requires no special tools. Once you get the seats out, the rest is much easier. You WILL need to have a copy of the AIM available to see how things are assembled and for order of disassembly/re-assembly.
Do a SEARCH of the archives for recoloring the interior. Lots of info already available in Forum files.
And, I agree that re-dying the interior is the simplest way to get the interior to a matching color. Removing the interior is a bit of a challenge...especially the trans tunnel and gauge cluster. But, it requires no special tools. Once you get the seats out, the rest is much easier. You WILL need to have a copy of the AIM available to see how things are assembled and for order of disassembly/re-assembly.
Do a SEARCH of the archives for recoloring the interior. Lots of info already available in Forum files.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Aug 15, 2013 at 06:30 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 261
Likes: 7
I found one curious little oddity... Someone decided to use the washer fluid tank as sort of a catch tank for the radiator:
That line off the radiator cap heads straight into the top of a black tank on the lower fender well, which as I understand it, is my washer fluid reservoir. Any expert opinion what style of expansion tank, if any, there should be, or how else to go about fixing it? I am assuming I can probably just replace the cap and do away with the line to the washer tank. I would like to get the washer/wiper system working, eventually...
EDIT: I think I found the answer to my own question. Just install another overflow tank or dump it onto the ground...
That line off the radiator cap heads straight into the top of a black tank on the lower fender well, which as I understand it, is my washer fluid reservoir. Any expert opinion what style of expansion tank, if any, there should be, or how else to go about fixing it? I am assuming I can probably just replace the cap and do away with the line to the washer tank. I would like to get the washer/wiper system working, eventually...
EDIT: I think I found the answer to my own question. Just install another overflow tank or dump it onto the ground...
Last edited by ryanmh; Aug 15, 2013 at 05:33 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 261
Likes: 7
The doors now open with the exterior handles. What a treat that was! Actually, it was a really easy job once figured out on the first side. The riveted together latch mechanism isn't as tight as it should be, so the adjusters needed to be moved down a turn or twp.
A lot of the methods on the forum are excessively complicated. Simple method: Pull door panel screws, but leave handle. Push handle open from back side and remove door panel over it. Spray lots of carb cleaner on mechanism to remove dirty grease. Pull access cover screws on door. Pop clip off of retention pin by adjuster arm screw by inserting small screw driver into hole on arm to pop the retainer and flat blade to push the clip. Insert arm into door. Remove pin from latch arm. Turn adjuster. Reinstall retention clip and pop pin back through hole. Lube everything in sight. Put access panel cover back on. Lower window to facilitate hooking door panel on top of door. Reinstall all screws and doodads. Done. So nice to have working doors... now if only the driver side exterior unlock worked! One more thing to fix...
(My guess is that guys with shorter arms have a terrible time with this. I personally found it easy to reach everything inside the door. Power windows probably help with having room, too).
A lot of the methods on the forum are excessively complicated. Simple method: Pull door panel screws, but leave handle. Push handle open from back side and remove door panel over it. Spray lots of carb cleaner on mechanism to remove dirty grease. Pull access cover screws on door. Pop clip off of retention pin by adjuster arm screw by inserting small screw driver into hole on arm to pop the retainer and flat blade to push the clip. Insert arm into door. Remove pin from latch arm. Turn adjuster. Reinstall retention clip and pop pin back through hole. Lube everything in sight. Put access panel cover back on. Lower window to facilitate hooking door panel on top of door. Reinstall all screws and doodads. Done. So nice to have working doors... now if only the driver side exterior unlock worked! One more thing to fix...
(My guess is that guys with shorter arms have a terrible time with this. I personally found it easy to reach everything inside the door. Power windows probably help with having room, too).
Last edited by ryanmh; Aug 18, 2013 at 01:17 AM.
