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THAT'S what I was thinking. My little brain gets overwhelmed with numbers that other members can easily interpret.
4L60E is 3"? longer than TH400.
New driveshaft needs to be XX.XX" shorter than original drive driveshaft.
WHY is that so hard for me to comprehend?
"Aparrotly" my Machinist brain retired when I Re-Tired.
I think I will leave the new driveshaft tack-welded until I install the 4L60E.
I may as well make it look good in the meantime...paint job.
THAT'S what I was thinking. My little brain gets overwhelmed with numbers that other members can easily interpret.
4L60E is 3"? longer than TH400.
New driveshaft needs to be XX.XX" shorter than original drive driveshaft.
WHY is that so hard for me to comprehend?
"Aparrotly" my Machinist brain retired when I Re-Tired.
I think I will leave the new driveshaft tack-welded until I install the 4L60E.
I may as well make it look good in the meantime...paint job.
Tranny is 3" longer, but driveshaft is only 2" longer, because of the slip coupling maybe?
Tranny is 3" longer, but driveshaft is only 2" longer, because of the slip coupling maybe?
You got it. The Th400 slip yoke goes into it's housing an inch farther...I just noticed that today while wrapping tape around the4L60E yoke for painting. Normally you measure from U-joint to U-joint to get the needed length of the new driveshaft.
The bottoming out of the TH400 yoke and the 4L60E yoke are different by 1"
That'll keep the rust away until I test-fit the 4L60E and the new driveshaft...then I will cut it to length/indicate/weld/touch-up paint.
Last edited by doorgunner; Jan 14, 2025 at 07:54 AM.
I yanked the instrument cluster out again...the gas gauge Red Light for some unknown reason was not bright enough.
It shared its light with the Water Temp. Gauge. The additional light provided 50% more light after I drilled a 5/8" dia. hole in the rear cover and installed an extra wired bulb socket.
The passenger panel screw holes were stripped out so I filled the stripped out holes with fiberglass strands...then injected resin into the holes to fill mthem up. I will redrill the holes with a drill (bit) and thread the hole with 10-24TPI machine screws.
Same thing with the stripped hole on the driver panel.
Tomorrow I'll make another attempt to install the driver gauges and red bulbs.
Last edited by doorgunner; Jan 16, 2025 at 09:34 PM.
I gotta put a Red bulb in the radio to match.
I'll get a squirt bottle of fresh hardener and soak all the uncured panel holes...
a couple years ago I had the same problem with resin not drying so I brushed hardener onto the resin and cured the "syrup".
That is what I need is a heater for the garage. It was just to cold for me yesterday.
It;s been snowing about 1.5 hrs. small snowflakes but getting larger.I guess I had better turn the garage heater on!
I have a wall unit A.C. ...so I place an electric/oil heater at the intake of the A.C....takes about an hour to get to 65*F.
There are roses about the size of your fist on the fence, but they are snowed-in now.
It snows on average every 20 years in South Louisiana.
Last edited by doorgunner; Jan 21, 2025 at 10:18 PM.
I started installing the driver panel and realized there were several spots where the black vinyl was separating from the backing...SO.. 3 hrs. later I had all the areas repaired...except it was 60*F in the garage which slowed the curing alot.
I decided to repair the driver's seat while waiting....I previously redyed the cover and out new foam in the backrest....
Zip ties are so much easier to install the cover and tighten it once it stretches/10 years after rebuild-very little surface rust...
Nassssty......
Fresh paint....
Tomorrow I will install the new foam, redye the seat cover, and finish installing the driver gauges.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
