PLEASE help!! Gauge lights not working.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 12
From: SoCal
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 12
From: SoCal
Since you say you're getting 12V at the headlight switch (you did verify that, right? 
), manually apply 12V to the wire that feeds the gauge lights (the one that attaches to the headlight switch) and see if the lights come on. Basically, do what BDoc advised and start working your way down the wiring until you find the break.
), manually apply 12V to the wire that feeds the gauge lights (the one that attaches to the headlight switch) and see if the lights come on. Basically, do what BDoc advised and start working your way down the wiring until you find the break.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 448
Likes: 3
From: Olathe KS
Since you say you're getting 12V at the headlight switch (you did verify that, right? ), manually apply 12V to the wire that feeds the gauge lights (the one that attaches to the headlight switch) and see if the lights come on. Basically, do what BDoc advised and start working your way down the wiring until you find the break.
), manually apply 12V to the wire that feeds the gauge lights (the one that attaches to the headlight switch) and see if the lights come on. Basically, do what BDoc advised and start working your way down the wiring until you find the break.Last edited by Killingsworth 73; Sep 28, 2013 at 10:45 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 12
From: SoCal
Unfortunately, none of the documentation I have shows the wire color.
You should be able to use your voltmeter on the headlight switch tabs that the wires connect to and find the one that changes as you rotate the switch ****.
You should be able to use your voltmeter on the headlight switch tabs that the wires connect to and find the one that changes as you rotate the switch ****.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 448
Likes: 3
From: Olathe KS
Racer
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 326
Likes: 7
Find a good ground and 12v from other wires using a multimeter. There's like 25 of each in the wiring harness there. You'll have no problem finding them. If nothing else, take some six foot long wires with alligator clips and just go the battery.
Then, one at a time, supply 12v to the light (you might have to splice in to the wire a little) and see if it comes on. If it does, you know you're missing 12v (switch, fuse, or wiring problem.) If that doesn't make it come on, supply ground (attach the ground wire to the little metal clips that surround the bulb.)
In this manner you can see if the problem is 12v or ground. If it turns out to be 12v check:
- Fuse
- Switch (manually input 12v to the switch harness to rule it out)
- Wiring (use the continuity feature on a multimeter)
If the problem is ground, it's a loose or cut wire somewhere.
Then, one at a time, supply 12v to the light (you might have to splice in to the wire a little) and see if it comes on. If it does, you know you're missing 12v (switch, fuse, or wiring problem.) If that doesn't make it come on, supply ground (attach the ground wire to the little metal clips that surround the bulb.)
In this manner you can see if the problem is 12v or ground. If it turns out to be 12v check:
- Fuse
- Switch (manually input 12v to the switch harness to rule it out)
- Wiring (use the continuity feature on a multimeter)
If the problem is ground, it's a loose or cut wire somewhere.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 448
Likes: 3
From: Olathe KS
Here is a pic if my connection to the switch. What goes in the empty slot that was burned? Something, right? A ground? The diagram shows a dot, but no wire.
Last edited by Killingsworth 73; Sep 30, 2013 at 06:18 PM.
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Racer
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 326
Likes: 7
Does it really matter if your lights come on anyway?
Just do this: Run a temporary 12v there with a manual ground supplied to a bulb. Does it come on? Great. Keep the 12v there. If not, repeat the process with a ground. Very simple man
Just do this: Run a temporary 12v there with a manual ground supplied to a bulb. Does it come on? Great. Keep the 12v there. If not, repeat the process with a ground. Very simple man
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 448
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From: Olathe KS
Progress.. Manually supplied power to center gauge light cluster (sliced one of the light (gray) wires. Boom, lights! So I'm obviously not getting power to them through the harness.. Also, now I have no running lights or side markers.. But the front side markers blink with the turn signals.
Also, a few of the bulbs need a manual ground to light up. Should a wire brush do the trick or does anyone have a different remedy?
Now that I know I'm not getting power from the harness (power for these is still supplied through the headlight switch right?), what is my next step?
Also, now that I have everything back apart, I have noticed bubba has been in my car at some point. (Probably when I had a stereo and alarm put in 10 years ago?). So, thats part of my issue I think. I have a few things not plugged into anything. For example, right by the fuse box, a purple wire with a plug.. Just hanging out. Also, a wire that travels under the arm rest that has two white wires, a purple, and (trying to remember now), possibly black, also not plugged into anything.
Also, a few of the bulbs need a manual ground to light up. Should a wire brush do the trick or does anyone have a different remedy?
Now that I know I'm not getting power from the harness (power for these is still supplied through the headlight switch right?), what is my next step?
Also, now that I have everything back apart, I have noticed bubba has been in my car at some point. (Probably when I had a stereo and alarm put in 10 years ago?). So, thats part of my issue I think. I have a few things not plugged into anything. For example, right by the fuse box, a purple wire with a plug.. Just hanging out. Also, a wire that travels under the arm rest that has two white wires, a purple, and (trying to remember now), possibly black, also not plugged into anything.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 326
Likes: 7
Try manually supplying power to the harness on the spot marked in my picture. That should make the lights light up as well. If it does, you probably need a new switch. If it doesn't, you have some wiring issues in between the harness and the lights.
As to the ground, I'm not sure there. The little metal prongs probably aren't touching the light bulb correctly would be my best guess. You might want to buy some new bulb connectors.
Get yourself a wiring diagram. It will be money well spent. There's a few different things in the center arm-rest console. It could just be one of the dome lights there.
Good luck and post back with what you find!
As to the ground, I'm not sure there. The little metal prongs probably aren't touching the light bulb correctly would be my best guess. You might want to buy some new bulb connectors.
Get yourself a wiring diagram. It will be money well spent. There's a few different things in the center arm-rest console. It could just be one of the dome lights there.
Good luck and post back with what you find!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 448
Likes: 3
From: Olathe KS
Nope, not yet. The spot marked on the harness is where the red wire is, and I am getting power there. Also, my switch is brand new, so it should be working properly. What if I fee the gauges power from the radio, so when the cars turns on y gauges are all on automatically?
Le Mans Master
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From: mount holly NC
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That could work!
You may need a switched 12 feed.
LED's must receive full 12 volts for them to work.
You cannot dimm them with the rheostat. They will be on or off only.
Your center gauge cluster has a good ground or the gauges would not work.
BDoc suggested applying 12 volts to the dark green and if the lights work then the wiring from the switch connector to the bulbs is good.
Here's a diagram, it shows what each wire does when it gets 12 volts.
To get full voltage to the rheostat turn it full CCC and come back CW to the click.
LED's must receive full 12 volts for them to work.
You cannot dimm them with the rheostat. They will be on or off only.
Your center gauge cluster has a good ground or the gauges would not work.
BDoc suggested applying 12 volts to the dark green and if the lights work then the wiring from the switch connector to the bulbs is good.
Here's a diagram, it shows what each wire does when it gets 12 volts.
To get full voltage to the rheostat turn it full CCC and come back CW to the click.
Last edited by Peterbuilt; Oct 6, 2013 at 09:46 PM.