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Ground fault . . . I think?

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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 08:55 AM
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Default Ground fault . . . I think?

So most of you know that I am redoing my 1982.
I had a battery drain, like pretty bad. A new battery was dead in 2 days. I mean flat-dead.
After pulling the battery, I decided to check across the battery leads with my continuity meter and I got the buzzer.
So, I started pulling fuses. When I pulled the "Courtesy" fuse, the buzzer stopped. Put it back in and it buzzed. Pulled it back out, and it stopped.
So, I figured that when I started on the car and had all the stuff out, I could get to everything really well.
Now, I'm taking the car apart. doors, console, seats, carpet, just about everything inside. I then recconnected the meter to the leads, and put the fuse back in and still buzzing. What should I do next?
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by DickieB
So most of you know that I am redoing my 1982.
I had a battery drain, like pretty bad. A new battery was dead in 2 days. I mean flat-dead.
After pulling the battery, I decided to check across the battery leads with my continuity meter and I got the buzzer.
So, I started pulling fuses. When I pulled the "Courtesy" fuse, the buzzer stopped. Put it back in and it buzzed. Pulled it back out, and it stopped.
So, I figured that when I started on the car and had all the stuff out, I could get to everything really well.
Now, I'm taking the car apart. doors, console, seats, carpet, just about everything inside. I then recconnected the meter to the leads, and put the fuse back in and still buzzing. What should I do next?
In my 80 and 81 models there is a timer behind the glove box. Unplug that timer, then try the fuse back in to see if the batt drains . I'm guessing that timer is bad allowing some of your inside lights ,or the 'walk around' light to stay on after you close the doors. The walk around light is under the rear bumper.
Let us know what you find.
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 12:28 PM
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Good one by Mike, gotta love the specialized knowledge about some of these C3's from the guys who own them.

Another thought, if that doesn't work, take that voltmeter and if it has a current reading capability, pull the fuses one by one, with the battery in the car and see if you have any current or amperage flowing between any of the terminals on the fuse box.
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 03:49 PM
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And, there are lots of relays under the console and behind the seats that can fail in old age and cause a constant drain. Things like seat belt, shifter interlock, etc.
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by F22
Good one by Mike, gotta love the specialized knowledge about some of these C3's from the guys who own them.

Another thought, if that doesn't work, take that voltmeter and if it has a current reading capability, pull the fuses one by one, with the battery in the car and see if you have any current or amperage flowing between any of the terminals on the fuse box.
THAT is the only way, and I have cured a couple of GM pickups....just that way, '96 silverado, pulled the 50 amp 'lighting' fuse to kill a 1/4 amp drain with everything supposedly OFF.....stuck a heavy relay in the circuit to feed the fuse, relay closes ONLY with ign ON.....

same gig in a S10, rewired the fuse to the 'body control computer' so it's only on when the ignition is on.....take about 5 seconds to wait for the stupid thing to boot and light/chime off, but guess what?? no more mysterious battery drain.....

I WIN!!!!!!


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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 03:29 PM
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Hey guys, thanks for the great tips.
It's really easy to get to everything with the complete interior out and front and rear covers off.
By the way, I actually did have trouble with my courtesy lights before. They wouldn't work unless I turned the headlight switch. They used to work with the timer and then they didn't. Maybe you are right, maybe the timer is bad?
I will check the suggestions above tonight and report back.

Again, thanks a lot for your suggestion!
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