Hey Guys,

Long story short....I have been practicing with swirl removing to make my clear coat shine. I had a used bumper for a while, wet sanded and then swirl removed. I honed my skills and was able to buff the bumper so you could not tell I had wet sanded.

However, I am trying to take all the swirls out of my mustang. But for the life of me, I can't get it as good as I got the bumper, not really even close. I can still see swirls in the sun's reflection.

I have used poor boys, pinnacle, and few Meguiars products. I have only tried the poor boys on my car as I felt they were the best when I was doing it on the bumper. I have used all 4 levels of poor boys...1, 2, 2.5, and 3. I have a porter cable and I use lake county flat pads.

If anyone is in the Baltimore\Washington area and would be willing to help me get this right I would be much appreciative. I really want to get this done before it gets cold out as I don't have a garage. I am looking for a leaning\teaching session from someone is has figured this out.

If you want more information or would like to discuss meeting options, please pm me. If you are comfortable with it, you can give me your phone number and I will call you at my earliest convenience.

Thank you.

 

How deep are the swirls? If they're pretty deep, you may have to wet sand again. While you're wet sanding, do you wash the car periodically, with soap and water, then dry it and look it over? Because for me, that was the only way that I could tell, if there were any uneven spots or spots you may have missed.

Secondly, are you using just your hand, to wet sand? I was recent pupil at my own wet sanding, with the car's finish, showing me where I went wrong. I tried every pattern of super gentle, efficient, diligent sanding I could and learned that the uneven pressure of your fingers, almost always leaves swirl marks, even pro foam blocks from the paint store, did little better.

What worked for me, from 400 grit, to 2000 grit, was to wet sand it with a jitterbug type DA sander and done right, watching what you do, with frequent washing and drying to check the results, gave the most uniform results. Look at it critically and often.

You'll start with 1000 grit if it's fine swirls, and then 1500, then, 2000. Keep washing, drying and looking too. After the final 2000 wet sand, with the DA, you'll need an 8" polisher and you'll use a medium nylon cutting pad and you'll use that wet too. I think I used the Meguairs 4000 pad and ran a hose, keeping it wet and washing away the tiny layer you're polishing. At this point in time, it should have a dull, but shiny sheen, no swirls, if you've got swirls, you've got to address them here.

Then, by hand, I used 3M Polishing Compound, working small areas and seeing how it was coming out. I'd buff the areas I was working firmly with a clean towel, turning it frequently. It should be swirl free and pretty shiny, but you're not done yet.

Now use the 3M hand glaze to make it look like glass! Follow up with a really good wax and it will look great. It took me eight days, with a solid weekend to start, and then two to three hours of hard work at the Shop, after nine hours at my real job! Finished the following Sunday, sore and wore!

Your best tool is learning from the cause and effect observation, of what were you doing, and what were the results.

You can find the 3M pro products at an auto paint supply place and they usually have really good sandpaper and supplies.

 

F22,

Thank you for the detailed write up.

1.) Just to be clear. I did not wet sand the car. When looking at the car I could see swirls in the sun's reflection only and I could not feel them. So I didn't think it was necessary to wet sand.

2.) The depth of the swirls does not seem bad. I can't catch them with my finger, the car feels smooth after claying, and I can only seem in the reflection of the sun.

I did do small areas. I think I split the hood up into 8 sections. I gave it just the right amount of pressure and I always wiped everything off before I inspected and then wiped again before I tried a second and third time. They are still there. It did look better, I was able to get rid of some, but I would be surprised that swirls that I can't see head on and cannot feel are deeper than the highest grade of swirl remover.

 

You might want to try your question over in the "car care discussion" forum.

Just curious. What color Lake County pad are you using? size? and what speed do you have the pc set at?

I use a 5.5 inch orange Lake County pad, put the PC on #6 (any slower doesnt work for me) & a medium polish which seems to work. If this is what you are doing then hopefully the other forum can help. They will want to know exactly what your process was. And there is nothing wrong with making a couple of passes over the same area.

Good luck.

 

Different pads are used based on the level of product I am using.

Orange for 3, yellow for 2.5 and 2, white for 1 (if I remember correctly, I usually have to feel them a few times to remember which does for which.)

They 5.5 I think and I have the PC on about 5.5.

 

Well posting in the detail section yielded no results. So bump.

If you don't want to teach me on my car, I could come learn while you do yours.

 

Stingray, I'm in the same boat as you, I would love to get a lesson on this. I'm just down the road in Odenton, so maybe some one could show you on your ride and I could watch over your shoulder. Here's another bump for you.

Mike

 

Hey Mike,

I love to teach. So if I figure it out or find someone to show me I will be more than happy to show you.

It just completely flips me out that no one is willing to do this when everyone on here is so eager to share their knowledge.