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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 06:36 AM
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Default Rusty frame pics

Ready to go out for cleaning. Snapped a couple of pics. But wow, after seeing what some of the C2 guys are starting with I'm thinking I'm relatively lucky. Almost pulled the trigger on a new frame yesterday but it's just not necessary in this case. I've ordered an new #2 crossmember for it and hope to get the ball rolling here pretty quick.
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 11:35 AM
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Thats a really odd member to rot out?

How are your kick ups and trailing arm pockets? What do the frame rail end caps look like by the #3 body mount?

Is the number 3 member easy to dent with a ballpeen at the bottom half section? The number 3 gets real thin by the screw holes that hold the parking brake cable brackets on.

I dont think I have ever seen a rotten #2 cross member so I ask only to make sure you aren't putting new steel on a questionable frame.

Dont even get me started on birdcage/ rockers / windshield frame issues. You can look at my photo album for the rust issues I have been dealing with.
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by mysixtynine
Thats a really odd member to rot out?

How are your kick ups and trailing arm pockets? What do the frame rail end caps look like by the #3 body mount?

Is the number 3 member easy to dent with a ballpeen at the bottom half section? The number 3 gets real thin by the screw holes that hold the parking brake cable brackets on.

I dont think I have ever seen a rotten #2 cross member so I ask only to make sure you aren't putting new steel on a questionable frame.

Dont even get me started on birdcage/ rockers / windshield frame issues. You can look at my photo album for the rust issues I have been dealing with.
Thanks my69! I have replaced my rocker channels (actually, I removed then repaired them and didn't use the reinforcement parts). I also replaced the windshield frame. I'll check this one over good once I get it back. I dropped it at the blasters today. At my shop we have an electronic "wall thickness gauge" that I'll use to check for thin spots. It measures very accurately. I don't mid changing #2 but that #3 looks like a tough one to replace.
I'm going to check your photo album. Yea. weird abut the crossmember rotting there. I thinks it got full of debris from a mouse nest that caused it. Rick
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 06:47 PM
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Judging by the looks of the rest of the frame you may have some unpleasant suprises when you get the frame back from blasting. The differential X-member and trailing arm pockets tend to rust out, especially on a NorthEast car. That X-member ties everything together so it is crucial that there is no weakness back there. There are replacement patch pieces available and you may have the skills to put them in but it won't be easy.

Depending on what the project is (personal, resale, restoration for a customer) it might be worth looking into a replacement frame, either used or reproduction.



Rick B.
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 07:57 PM
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Thanks Rick B. I checked it over pretty good and almost went for a frame from vetteproductsof Michigan. 4k isn't too bad in my book but I determined that this frame is quite repairable. This isn't for resale. just for me. Check out the C2 guys if you want to see some bad frames. They fix some rough ones and do them up nice. Kudos to them. I wouldn't use it if it was too far gone. I would buy a new in a heartbeat. Rick
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Old Oct 18, 2013 | 09:22 PM
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If you are a good welder, any frame is repairable.

I sure hope you're "good" and you can bring it back to life.
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 06:45 AM
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good luck hard work will pay off in the end
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 07:48 AM
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The side rails are pretty good, number 3 xmember is pretty good. Although I'm a machinist, not a weldor, I do have a lot of welding experience as well as the equipment to do it. I bought my first stick welder in 1977. Have my own Mig and Tig machines as well. Even if it were a lot worse, all the repair parts are available making the job an awful lot easier. Replacing the #2 crossmember is going to be one of the easier tasks of this project. Rick
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 11:08 AM
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I'm sure that you will do fine. It's just a rather tedious job with a lot of planning and setup for each piece. Please show us the progress you are making, as well as the finished repaired frame.

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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
I'm sure that you will do fine. It's just a rather tedious job with a lot of planning and setup for each piece. Please show us the progress you are making, as well as the finished repaired frame.

Yes, please post pics of your progress. My impression is a jig is often needed to keep everything aligned. Can you post some pics of the trailing arm pockets? This is another trouble area.
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Old Oct 19, 2013 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BBCorv70
Yes, please post pics of your progress. My impression is a jig is often needed to keep everything aligned. Can you post some pics of the trailing arm pockets? This is another trouble area.
I'd post some more pics but I sent it to the blaster yesterday. I'll get it Wed or Thurs. The trailing arm pockets are't bad and the end caps are fine as well as the rails in front of #3 mounts. I won't have to jig up much. Just the #2 Xmember before I cut it off. If I were to replace any rail then it would need a nice solid jig before making any cuts. I was over at C2 checking out how some of them did it. Pretty interesting. I saw the way Lars did one a few years ago. And check out the way these guys use posts anchored to the floor to keep things pretty straight.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...me-repair.html
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