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I'm getting things together to reinstall the 454 back into my 71. Just looking for some tips to make it as smooth as possible. I still have the trans in and the hood and rad are removed.
I have a "regular" reach cherry picker...should I try for a side pick or go in from the front? Do all the exhaust later or should it go in before?
Never have installed a BB, but I have removed one. I used a standard engine hoist (purchased from Harbor Freight) and used the front approach. I've done two in and outs with my 68 and it's SB.
For all my engine in and out's I've always dealt with the complete engine/bellhousing/transmission stack....the whole assembly for in and out. I don't think I'm proficient enough to mate the engine/bellhousing and tranny up in the car. I know a lot of people are adept at this, but I'm not. For my 70, I have a McLeod Dual Disk Clutch and a TKO 600 fine spline tranny. I had a hell of a time mating the tranny up to the bell housing/clutch even though the engine was on a bare frame and I was doing the install from the top side. The tranny fine spline input shaft and two clutch disks for the shaft to go through was "challenging."
Also, for all my engine installs, I don't use one of those plastic tools to align up the clutch with the crank bearing hole. I use an actual tranny input shaft. It's much more accurate than that plastic thing.
If you have AC, the factory exhaust manifolds only have small fraction of an inch clearance. My guess is you have to bolt them on before engine drop...someone with experience out there. For installing headers, I've always had to dummy in the headers into the engine compartment before engine drop. I've used wire to hold them in the approximate place in the engine compartment before engine drop. You'll probably have to bolt them up with engine till a little up in the air.
For the SB, I can remove and install the engine stack all by myself. No time wasted with tranny already mated into the bellhousing. I removed the BB by myself. Don't know about the install. Two things I've done to make the install easier..I removed the factory air conditioning and installed an aftermarket under the dash AC. (See classic air and vintage air). I removed the vacuum PB plenum to not interfere with valve covers. I've installed a Hydroboost power brake booster for more room.
Replacing the engine is a great character builder!
Last edited by 68/70Vette; Oct 25, 2013 at 04:40 PM.
If the boom on your cherry picker is standard length, I wouldn't attempt a front load. Too many things can go wrong if you need to jockey the engine into position. I've read that a longer boom doesn't have that limitation so if you have one of those, go for it.
I'm a side remover/replacer myself. I have enough room around the car to move the hoist without obstruction and centering the package (engine/clutch/trans) is usually pretty easy. I only get nervous when the engine assembly is 5 or 6 foot off the floor to swing from outside the fender to inside the bay but that's just me.
You didn't say whether you're installing headers or the factory manifolds. I usually leave them off to simplify installing the motor mount to frame horn bolts.
Whether removing or installing, I want easy space to get wrenches and ratchets in and out so I clear those easy obstructions. Your mileage may vary.
I have removed and installed two 454's... I used a cherry picker from the side and removed the transmission/engine combination. I think I removed the exhaust manifolds first and installed them last. It was a two-man job for me.
If you have the hood off, what is the advantage to going over the side verses the front?
The cherry picker is more stable from the side because the distance is shorter from the pickup point on the motor to the front wheels on the cherry picker. This makes the job safer and when you have the motor suspended in the air and you are moving it into posisition things can get a little hairy.
Have always gone in from the front with a 2 ton unit, but if I ever need to do it again I will try the side. Seems the boom is so long I have had to keep extra weight on the base of the cherry picker to help keep it from wanting it to tip forward.
Opps no one mentioned it. You need a engine leveler to attach to the engine hoist. For me, i removed my engine from the front and I'm sure I can install it from the front. Approaching the empty bay with the engine/bell-housing/trannie stack, you use the engine leveler to position the engine up in the air with the trainee lower..Maybe 45 degrees for starters to get you into the engine bay. They start a little horizontal shift on the stack.......push the end of the trannie into over the crossmember. Tilt the engine a little more horizontal with the leveler. Keep jockeying the engine/bellhousing/tanny stack as you use your hands to grab the end on the trannie and push it into position. On my SB engines, I've done this all by myself. On top, I position everything into place, jump down on my back underneath the car and push the trannie rear end into place, then climb out on top and push a little more on top etc, and back underneath to push things around a little more...
You MUST get a engine leveler for your hoist. I'd guess that it'll cost about $90. About the engine hoist.....The local rental place wants about $35 a day for the engine hoist. Years ago, Snap-On wanted $1070 for the hoist.. Harbor Freight wants $179 for the hoist. I've used my Harbor Freight hoist for a couple of engine in and outs. The power hydraulic ram on the Harbor Freight hoist doesn't last long. Not a problem, a new one is $70. You're still far away from the $1070 Snap On price.
I installed my 454 from the side, more stable, plus my hood was still on.
Make sure you have enough space between the legs of the hoist to straddle the tire, or just remove the tire.
Opps no one mentioned it. You need a engine leveler to attach to the engine hoist. For me, i removed my engine from the front and I'm sure I can install it from the front. Approaching the empty bay with the engine/bell-housing/trannie stack, you use the engine leveler to position the engine up in the air with the trainee lower..Maybe 45 degrees for starters to get you into the engine bay. They start a little horizontal shift on the stack.......push the end of the trannie into over the crossmember. Tilt the engine a little more horizontal with the leveler. Keep jockeying the engine/bellhousing/tanny stack as you use your hands to grab the end on the trannie and push it into position. On my SB engines, I've done this all by myself. On top, I position everything into place, jump down on my back underneath the car and push the trannie rear end into place, then climb out on top and push a little more on top etc, and back underneath to push things around a little more...
You MUST get a engine leveler for your hoist. I'd guess that it'll cost about $90. About the engine hoist.....The local rental place wants about $35 a day for the engine hoist. Years ago, Snap-On wanted $1070 for the hoist.. Harbor Freight wants $179 for the hoist. I've used my Harbor Freight hoist for a couple of engine in and outs. The power hydraulic ram on the Harbor Freight hoist doesn't last long. Not a problem, a new one is $70. You're still far away from the $1070 Snap On price.
Done just like that!
Leveler...Best dang tool since the cherry picker!
This was my LT5/ZR-1 engine pull using the leveler. Side extraction/installation with the hood on. (LT5 comparable to a BBC, I assure you!)
Last edited by Paul Workman; Oct 29, 2013 at 08:09 AM.