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Thanks for the clarification. I've noticed a bit of a widening in that gap too. But from what you say, once the tires are back on and the car's on the ground the issue self-corrects? (Sure hope so.)
Dan G>
Yes, mine did. Just wouldn't want it to become permanent or flex it back and forth a lot as it seems that may weaken whatever is flexing. I could be wrong, it just didn't make me comfortable seeing that.
A guy could put additional jack stands on the forward frame area near the engine to support that weight I suppose. I just don't leave it up supported behind the tires for extended periods of time any more.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Nov 21, 2013 at 02:30 PM.
I am a newbie and put my 1969 up on stands today for the first time.
I looked at a lot of threads and one thing that would have cleared my concerns are some clear photos of the stands in place. In several chains they were deleted with age so I am adding mine today.
I jacked under the front cross member and rear end. I used 2x4s to pad/spread the load at all contact points I made. I am leaving the jack in place in the front too while I am under it.
I got her just before thanksgiving and the power steering is puking so here I go putting my wrenches on her for the first time. Can I start it while it's up like this? I need some fresh P/S fluid flowing so I can find the leak. I wouldn't put it in gear but would run the steering lock to lock. OF COURSE I WOULDN'T GET UNDER IT WHILE IT WAS RUNNING!
I am a newbie and put my 1969 up on stands today for the first time.
I looked at a lot of threads and one thing that would have cleared my concerns are some clear photos of the stands in place. In several chains they were deleted with age so I am adding mine today.
I jacked under the front cross member and rear end. I used 2x4s to pad/spread the load at all contact points I made. I am leaving the jack in place in the front too while I am under it.
I got her just before thanksgiving and the power steering is puking so here I go putting my wrenches on her for the first time. Can I start it while it's up like this? I need some fresh P/S fluid flowing so I can find the leak. I wouldn't put it in gear but would run the steering lock to lock. OF COURSE I WOULDN'T GET UNDER IT WHILE IT WAS RUNNING!
I did experience all the things these threads warn about. The doors were jammed shut up on the stands. Also the when I let the pressure off the jack in the front and it rested on the front stands I could see the "nose" drop down a little more after the frame came to rest on the stands. Seeing that - I put a little pressure on the jack at the front crossmember to hold it in an little more natural position. If someone has pics of stands in a better position on the front please share.
Also I did start the engine while on stands and honestly it felt rock solid.
I did experience all the things these threads warn about. The doors were jammed shut up on the stands. Also the when I let the pressure off the jack in the front and it rested on the front stands I could see the "nose" drop down a little more after the frame came to rest on the stands. Seeing that - I put a little pressure on the jack at the front crossmember to hold it in an little more natural position. If someone has pics of stands in a better position on the front please share.
Also I did start the engine while on stands and honestly it felt rock solid.
Place jack stands under front and rear suspension points not frame rails. This is the way the car is designed with the weight on the suspension. Placing stands under the frame rails is not a natural position and is the reason you are seeing movement in the body.
Place front stands under lower control arms.
Place rear stands under ends of leaf spring or rear section of trailing arms.
Place jack stands under front and rear suspension points not frame rails. This is the way the car is designed with the weight on the suspension. Placing stands under the frame rails is not a natural position and is the reason you are seeing movement in the body.
Place front stands under lower control arms.
Place rear stands under ends of leaf spring or rear section of trailing arms.
Pictures? Diagrams with x marks the spot? Ends of the leaf spring makes sense but I am newb enough that I want positive confirmation on the other spots. I would prefer to be lifting it in a way that holds it the way the design intended - makes more sense.
Pictures? Diagrams with x marks the spot? Ends of the leaf spring makes sense but I am newb enough that I want positive confirmation on the other spots. I would prefer to be lifting it in a way that holds it the way the design intended - makes more sense.
I don't have any pictures. Place front stands under the front shocks. The lower end of the shock bolts to the lower control arm.
I am a newbie and put my 1969 up on stands today for the first time.
Bones, what I do not like about your pictures is that you have placed wood blocks between the frame and the jack stand. The cradle in the jack stand helps prevent the frame from slipping off your stand. You have eliminated the cradle and introduced another slip point (frame on block and block on jack stand).
If you are concerned with scratching your frame, get some jack stand covers:
I also put the front stands directly under the front shocks. Its sturdy as a rock that way. Back stands in front of the rear tires.
Even at that, I like to leave the jack in place with some of the weight off it. If tires are off I put them under the frame rails. Cant have enough protection.
Thanks for the responses. It's good to see the different points of view. I will probably try and set the car down every evening if possible., Another ? tho, how long can you let a car sit until it wears flat spots in the tires? How often should you rotate them while your restoring/working on the car?
The local Corvette guru that specializes in Corvette repairs told me to put the rear jack stands just in front of the rear wheels, the front stands just in front of the front stabilizer bars. My GM manual shows that as being a lift point as well. He said the weight hanging in the front can damage the fiberglass. Mine has been in the air for 6 weeks the doors open an close perfectly, I haven't opened the hood to finish my brake job but I assume no issues there.
Bones, what I do not like about your pictures is that you have placed wood blocks between the frame and the jack stand. The cradle in the jack stand helps prevent the frame from slipping off your stand. You have eliminated the cradle and introduced another slip point (frame on block and block on jack stand).
Thanks for the link - I will definitely pick some of those up. I didn't really think about looking for specialized pads to prevent scraping things up. I have to say though that cradle really isn't big enough for a frame rail to "sit in".
To the point of putting the front stands under the front shock mounts ,thanks to all who sent me there, I moved to there and the doors aren't bound any more - much better. Will have to look at using the spot in front of the stabilizer bar just in case I need to change my options depending on what I am working on.
Great idea! I have a 4 post lift, 2 floor jacks and jack stands, but I put together a set of 4 of your cribbing supports yesterday. I am using them to scrape, sand and clean the frame. Only problem is that I will feel so safe, I may fall asleep under the car! Years ago I spent a long time detailing the bottom of a car and never felt 100% safe.
Originally Posted by racerx1
I made up two sets of tire cribs and they work like a charm.
I place mine like HOTRODNICK, Nothing sags, all components are accessible and solid. Make sure you place the jack stands on the frame and not the frame extensions. I don't have a pic, but a stand will fit neatly just behind the stab bar, in front of the front X member.
(NOTE) I never just place anything in the air without a loose "safety" floor jack some where under the car, it could prevent a "pancake mechanic". After everything is up I shake the Heck out of it, just to check.
Here's how I do mine
Back up on the ramps and then jack up the front. I usually add a couple more 2x6's on top or bottom of the 8x8's. Plenty of room to work under, and no worries.