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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 08:35 PM
  #41  
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It is the bar in front of your font cross member that is linked to the lower L& R control arms.
It helps the car not to lean too much in turns. Also known as sway bar or anti roll bar.
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 08:38 PM
  #42  
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From: Chino CA
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Originally Posted by bpassmore
It is the bar in front of your font cross member that is linked to the lower L& R control arms.
It helps the car not to lean too much in turns. Also known as sway bar or anti roll bar.
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!! The SWAY bar!!!!!!
Got it.........

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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 08:46 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 69bones
I am a newbie and put my 1969 up on stands today for the first time.

I looked at a lot of threads and one thing that would have cleared my concerns are some clear photos of the stands in place. In several chains they were deleted with age so I am adding mine today.

I jacked under the front cross member and rear end. I used 2x4s to pad/spread the load at all contact points I made. I am leaving the jack in place in the front too while I am under it.








I got her just before thanksgiving and the power steering is puking so here I go putting my wrenches on her for the first time. Can I start it while it's up like this? I need some fresh P/S fluid flowing so I can find the leak. I wouldn't put it in gear but would run the steering lock to lock. OF COURSE I WOULDN'T GET UNDER IT WHILE IT WAS RUNNING!
The use of the 2X4 pieces between the stands and the frame make this a VERY dangerous setup!!

Last edited by pws69; Jan 12, 2014 at 12:47 PM.
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 09:35 AM
  #44  
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Lemanspete didn't like it either. It feels stable as all get out though I have to tell you. I Pushed very hard on the car from all sides and there is ZERO movement. Regardless, based on theory of more surfaces to slip I stopped doing it. I only like pancakes for breakfast.
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 10:46 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by pws69
The use of the 2X2 pieces between the stands and the frame make this a VERY dangerous setup!!
+1. A number of years ago, my buddy did that with his Chevelle. The 2x4's looked fine when he placed them there, but a few days later he noticed that one of the 2x4 had split in half.

My father has a commercial/industrial mechanical contracting business and he gets me these great vibration isolation pads/blocks that they place under equipment (i.e., fans, small pumps, air handlers, etc.). He got me a large sheet of heavy rubber waffle type pads that I cut to size and he also got me these great heavy rubber and composite (not cork) pads that are like 4"x4"x7/8" thick. Over the years, they have come in handy for placing on top of jack stands, on the floor jack lift pad, etc. They have some flex to them, so they contour to both the stand pad and the frame for a secure, slip free fit that won't scratch your frame.

I think he gets them from a commercial HVAC supply house. Google "vibration isolation pads" and you'll see all the different types.
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 11:58 AM
  #46  
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From: El Sobrante CA
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Originally Posted by pws69
The use of the 2X2 pieces between the stands and the frame make this a VERY dangerous setup!!


The less pieces which can be moved or jarred out of position, the safer the rig is. The 'claw' atop those stands is designed to grasp the frame; putting a piece of wood in them defeats the purpose.
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 03:47 PM
  #47  
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I've rebuilt the front suspension on two in the past 6 months where the car stayed suspended for a week while parts were refurbished prior to re-installation. The cars were on a 4 post lift. After raising the front at the jack points and using the jack tray I put a bottle jack under the cradle cross member with a two by four to distribute the weight. I placed jack stands a little bit back of the jack points and left the jack in the front center. It took a little jack choreography to lift and lower evenly, but I had no noticeable droop evident looking at the door gaps.
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