So this car always had a radio, will need to check on radiator etc, doesn't seem likely to be a ZR1, so maybe I've been wrong about the M22 all these years, which seems unlikely but possible.
Phil

 

What made you think it was an M22?

 

The gear whine, it was unmistakable, between that and the solid lifters car made some glorious noises.
Phil

 

you are right , with the radio, odds are overwhelming that it is not a ZR1. which means that your statement that the car was an original M22 transmission is probably incorrect...

but... a 70 ZR1 hidden away for 25 years.. miracles do happen.

 

Go through the car so she can drive it again. Doesnt mean it has to be a super perfect bucks up deal..just make a nice driver out of it.
Car will always be what it is....pretty desirable.
Let the next person drive themselves nuts refi-ing their hours, doing the nut/bolt thing then not wanting to drive it.

 

That is good advice, my wife just wants a driver. I had one completely restored 911 S and I was scared to drive the damn thing.

Phil

 

Also understand that the engine, transmission were stamped with the serial number or what is called a VIN derivative and the serial number matches the VIN tag. But a decked block would compromise the number on the block and a tranny long gone would mean the number is gone. Having said that, there should be numbers on the tranny that could indicate that the original is still installed or indicate what you do have.

 

The whine could have been that 4.11 posi rearend.

Also, there were three four-speeds offered in 1970; the M22, M21 and the base M20. Around 1970, I ran around the streets in a Chevy II SS 327/350 with a 4.56 rearend...talk about whine! But I loved it.

• Code C = M22 - close ratio heavy-duty
• Code B = M21 - close ratio
• Code A = M20 - wide ratio

Check your carb...should be a Holley and the number would indicate whether it was an emission control version. The alternator distributor also would tie back to an LT1 motor.

 

Well the tranny was switched an original case was discarded as I am the one who moved it out my in-laws garage when they moved 20 years ago. I think we may have re-placed carb with a non stock holley as well but a little foggy on that one. I'll have to fly down and see car, it's been a very long time. I'll have someone check to see if motor serial numbers are still there.

Phil

 

Well I'm sure the wife doesn't care about the mechanicals but may help with the extent to bring it back to life as a driver and as suggested by others. Make it run...make it stop and do the cosmetics as budget permits may be the best option.

 

Hunt4cleanair,
I also have a 70 lt1 vert. How can i tell what type of transmission it is I presently have it on the bench and can read most if the numbers .
Thanks,
Nelson 007

 

I bet a repair to drivable condition/enjoyable condition could be quite reasonable, not 25K. Yikes
Unless it was damaged. Pictures please Frame ect.

 

Nelson

Muncie transmissions have the VIN derivative, production code and date code cast stamped on the passenger side of the transmission. The production code and VIN derivative is stamped vertically on the flange in front of the casting number at the top of the case. I don't have a photo but look for... with the VIN derivative (serial number)



The production code P 3E03 A indicates a Muncie (P) M20 (A) wide ratio transmission assembled May 3, 1973. Month codes begin in January with "A"..."E" = May. I listed the codes for transmission type in the above list you quoted...think I got it right! I'm sure others will correct if not.

 

Thanks hunt4cleanaur,
Thanks for the information. Does the last letter designate what Muncie you have? ( m20- m-21ect,)

Thanks,
Nelson007

 

Yes

 

The last part of the ID the letter will detrimine what gearbox is:

A=M-20 wide ratio
B=M-21 close ratio
C=M-22 HD close ratio

There are many unique parts on a LT-1 Vette is the tach a 6500RPM redline? You need to look for a transistor ignition distributor (take the cap off and see if there is a points set in there, while the K-66 Transistor ignition could have failed and a points set-up been swapped in, a real LT-1 will have this feature.) Look for a single fuel line from the fuel tank to the fuel pump. Look for HD rear differential yoke with forged inner U-joint caps instead of U-bolts. There is a possibility an M-22 was accidently mis marked and installed into your wife's Vette the transmission case should still have the VIN# stamped into it. Having a radio make it very unlikley that Vette is a ZR-1 model it wouild also have a aluminum "L-88" style radiator instead of the large copper/brass unit. Many people on here stating LT-1 values but, they seem pretty low to me even in this economy. The fuel tank has a very fragile build option sticker glued to it but, may no longer be there. I once bought a one owner 1970 LT-1 and the guy didn't even know the passenger side storage compartment had a removable part when I removed it we found, shims in a burlap bag for adjusting seat back angle, trim ring install instructions, and a white shipping card with options of the LT-1 on it never having seen the light of day until I opened up that compartment (51K miles on odometer.) Paper work will greatly increase the value of a LT-1 Vette are there any sales invoices around, old family photos?

Post some pictures of what you have and get some better opinions. Take photos of dash instruments, engine compartment, rear differential and front left side of radiator support (should be a little finned black amplifier box for TI ignition up front.)

 

If its around Detroit, Werner Meier at Masterworks in Madison Heights 13 mile near 14 mile Rd. could make it new again ....I recall Stephenson highway involved too

Give him a call.... he was in charge of the Corvette engineering group at the GM proving grounds and knows Vettes as good as any one...it was his job...He retired and opened Masterworks........

 

I sold my 1970 numbers matching engine, LT-1 roadster, Corvette Bronze with tan vinyl interior for $43,000 around 2005.
The car was rust free and decent paint. Fresh engine with correct smog pump. It was an above average driver and several dollars away from a Top Flight car.
I love LT-1s so I replaced it with a 70 RS Camaro Z28.

Your car deserves a proper restoration.

 

Your original post was asking the monetary value and I think it has been established that it has a much higher emotional value. As for the money I bought a very similar sounding car around 5 years ago for $11k and it has cost me around $25k to date brining it back. I knew it wasn't a great financial deal I just wanted to do it for the enjoyment of doing it. I found the little things really add up like getting the correct distributor, alternator and carburetor. If you don't care about all date correct parts you can do it for much less. The $75 alternator in my 72 works just as well as the $800 one for the 70. It is just that they made so few of the 70 LT-1 roadsters....

 

I am curious who the vette "specialist" is in Scottsdale???