Non Power Brakes
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,481
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
No. Power and standard brake master cylinders are also different. There is also specific hardware used in the power brake set up not needed for standard brakes.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Dec 21, 2013 at 07:56 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,207
Likes: 26
From: Ocean County NJ
Easy Mike, I will be converting my 68 to PS over this winter, and looking at the PS Conversion Kits that vendors offer, the list of parts does not include a different master cylinder or a booster. I know there are STD and power versions sold individually, so I'm wondering if I need to buy a new cylinder and a booster? As a point of reference, click on this link and at the bottom select kit components. I know some folks refer to this setup as a "slave",
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...L2-SR&CTitle=&
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...L2-SR&CTitle=&
Drifting
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,353
Likes: 44
From: Calgary Alberta
Easy Mike, I will be converting my 68 to PS over this winter, and looking at the PS Conversion Kits that vendors offer, the list of parts does not include a different master cylinder or a booster. I know there are STD and power versions sold individually, so I'm wondering if I need to buy a new cylinder and a booster? As a point of reference, click on this link and at the bottom select kit components. I know some folks refer to this setup as a "slave",
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...L2-SR&CTitle=&
http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductD...L2-SR&CTitle=&
The thread is about brakes, not steering. Mike is saying the master cylinder etc is different for power brakes than for manual brakes. This is in no way related to power steering of course. You won't obviously need a brake master cylinder and booster to make you power steering conversion operational.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 12,678
Likes: 3,129
From: Shamong, NJ
The factory used a different master cylinder, for power and non power brake cars. The difference I believe was the size of the MC's piston bore.
I have been "told" that you can safely, use the non power MC, when converting to power brakes. Personally, I think if your going to the trouble of upgrading to power, you might as well replace the master cylinder, while you have everything apart. A new generic master cylinder runs about $100, and the repro Delco's go for about $150.
The attaching points on the firewall, are different for the booster, than they are for the master cylinder. To mount the booster, you need to add new holes, which can be "tricky" with the dash installed.
You'll also need new brake lines, from the MC to the brass distribution block.
I have been "told" that you can safely, use the non power MC, when converting to power brakes. Personally, I think if your going to the trouble of upgrading to power, you might as well replace the master cylinder, while you have everything apart. A new generic master cylinder runs about $100, and the repro Delco's go for about $150.
The attaching points on the firewall, are different for the booster, than they are for the master cylinder. To mount the booster, you need to add new holes, which can be "tricky" with the dash installed.
You'll also need new brake lines, from the MC to the brass distribution block.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,207
Likes: 26
From: Ocean County NJ
The thread is about brakes, not steering. Mike is saying the master cylinder etc is different for power brakes than for manual brakes. This is in no way related to power steering of course. You won't obviously need a brake master cylinder and booster to make you power steering conversion operational.
well that's just a huge embarrassment on my part!!! I know the difference between the two systems, but can only say in my defense that I must've had a stroke when I read and wrote my post. Holy mackerel!!! I digress and will find somewhere to hide.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,793
Likes: 58
From: God's Country The Old Dominion
The factory used a different master cylinder, for power and non power brake cars. The difference I believe was the size of the MC's piston bore.
I have been "told" that you can safely, use the non power MC, when converting to power brakes. Personally, I think if your going to the trouble of upgrading to power, you might as well replace the master cylinder, while you have everything apart. A new generic master cylinder runs about $100, and the repro Delco's go for about $150.
The attaching points on the firewall, are different for the booster, than they are for the master cylinder. To mount the booster, you need to add new holes, which can be "tricky" with the dash installed.
You'll also need new brake lines, from the MC to the brass distribution block.
I have been "told" that you can safely, use the non power MC, when converting to power brakes. Personally, I think if your going to the trouble of upgrading to power, you might as well replace the master cylinder, while you have everything apart. A new generic master cylinder runs about $100, and the repro Delco's go for about $150.
The attaching points on the firewall, are different for the booster, than they are for the master cylinder. To mount the booster, you need to add new holes, which can be "tricky" with the dash installed.
You'll also need new brake lines, from the MC to the brass distribution block.
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Joined: Sep 2013
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
not only did this rookie learn how to convert to P/B.....
but also learned how to apologize with style!
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
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From: Florida
Manual masters are 1" dia bore and power are 1-1/8" bore, mounting holes/pattern the same.
Depending on which way you are going, you may be able to reuse the lines.
New masters are around 50 bucks at most parts stores.
Depending on which way you are going, you may be able to reuse the lines.
New masters are around 50 bucks at most parts stores.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,403
Likes: 791
From: Redondo Beach, California
There's a modification required to the firewall also to mount up the PB master cylinder.
For my 70 I bought Stainless Steel Brake Corporations aluminum MC. Little pricey.
I converted my 70 to a Hydroboost and used the SSBC MC. Also I replaced my brake and clutch parts on the passenger's side of the firewall....a difficult job made much easier by removing the steering column. Working under the dash is just sooooo muuucccchhh fun.
For my 70 I bought Stainless Steel Brake Corporations aluminum MC. Little pricey.
I converted my 70 to a Hydroboost and used the SSBC MC. Also I replaced my brake and clutch parts on the passenger's side of the firewall....a difficult job made much easier by removing the steering column. Working under the dash is just sooooo muuucccchhh fun.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
I would strongly advise having an AIM on hand for converting either to or from manual brakes. BTW, another item to bear in mind is the pushrod clevis hooks up to a different hole in the pedal arm for the linkage.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati Ohio
parts bought.
-New Master cylinder with booster
-New brake light switch arm
The push rod on the brake pedal gets relocated up higher on the pedal arm and the new brake light switch bolts in the lower hole where the push rod was connected to.
Had the dash out as getting to the top hole to mount the brake booster is a pain. I did have to drill the new mounting holes for the brake booster.
I used all the existing lines that were ran to the manual master cylinder.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
